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LVC 501s

Burnsie

New Member
Cobblers161 said:
I refuse however to have a downer on the 37 201's, I can live with a peice of fiction if it excudes that much cool. Although I have to say my 33's are getting better on a weekly basis.

Original 201's with white patch had already been pictured in the official Levi's history by Lynn Downey by 1996, so the inaccurate Lot 201 on the '96ers bothered me enough to meticulously retouch the leather patch to read 501 on my first pair. They were great jeans though - I had (and eventually sold) 4 pairs in all back then.
 

airfrogusmc

Well-Known Member
Cobblers161 said:
airfrogusmc said:
Cobblers161 said:
I was thinking that due to the bleeding, which after 14 pairs of LVC's over the years I've never experienced before, there must be a drop in quality, but as Airfrog says the denim is nice maybe this is just a small snag. The closeness of the red stitching to the central strip really bugs me(on an ocd level :? ) and it's not something to be found on the latest Japanese LVC's.

I guessed the selvedge was right for the 33's and 37's I was just suprised on the 55's.

I remember the 555 47's had the 1" selvedge then when Valencia St packed in and production moved elsewhere the selvedge went down to 1/2"

The cone denim that LVC used in 08 and now in 09 is according to Paul Trynka who has been to Levis, read their archives, interviewed experts like Lynn Downey, seen and handled the jeans and samples of denim in their collection and also to cone mills and done the same says the denim from 08 and now 09 is really close to the weight, texture, color to the originals that LVC are reproducing. Some of the 555 LVCs were early and not that accurate. The 37 201 555 was a fictional jean really a 501 but the 20s 201s are very good as were the ones from last year. All of the denim from repros ealrier than the 1915 (which will be out in the fall) are made with Japanese denim.

Cheers.

I refuse however to have a downer on the 37 201's, I can live with a peice of fiction if it excudes that much cool. Although I have to say my 33's are getting better on a weekly basis.

Some think that 37 201 was one of the best that LVC ever made though not the most accurate. I love mine to. Will be selling a pair soon. tagged 40 34 measure 36 31 1/2 worn but no holes stains or tears.

I really like my 1933s to.
 

Doug C

Member
Airfrogusmc wrote:
Doug I believe the US made 1917s use cone...
Well, I got the kurabo info at the "repeattofade blog", in the run down of the s/s'09 "dust & wrath" collection (or whatever it's called). I'm not sure who wrote it, but I was thinking it was Paul T. And I didn't assume the info was specific for a particular marketing area, I thought it was accurate info across the board. Here's what it say's regarding the 1917 model :
The original was made from Amoskeag natural indigo denim, but the re-issue is made in Kurabo denim, which is pretty nice too.

Doug C
 

Doug C

Member
OK I just found this quote that Paul wrote on the subject :
the 1901 and 1917 are both Kurabo, in Europe at least. The 1922 is Cone - the model marks the point at which Cone started supplying the fabric exclusively.
...AND..
these early jeans are all Kurabo. AS i stated in the next sentence, Cone only strated supplying the denim exclusively for the 501 in 1922 - ie, Kurabo tend to produce all the fabric that was originally made by Amoskeag. It's interesting that there might be a 1917 model made by Cone fabric but that sounds like a one-off.
So, yea I think it will be japanese denim for most of the 1917s, the LVC jeans that cultism sell is the European versions, right?

Doug C
 

airfrogusmc

Well-Known Member
Doug C said:
OK I just found this quote that Paul wrote on the subject :
the 1901 and 1917 are both Kurabo, in Europe at least. The 1922 is Cone - the model marks the point at which Cone started supplying the fabric exclusively.
...AND..
these early jeans are all Kurabo. AS i stated in the next sentence, Cone only strated supplying the denim exclusively for the 501 in 1922 - ie, Kurabo tend to produce all the fabric that was originally made by Amoskeag. It's interesting that there might be a 1917 model made by Cone fabric but that sounds like a one-off.
So, yea I think it will be japanese denim for most of the 1917s, the LVC jeans that cultism sell is the European versions, right?

Doug C

Most of the raw he has are all made in USA so they would be cone if they're US made. Cone actually started making denim for Levis in 1915 they just weren't the exclusive supplier.

edit: looks like Dejan has Japanese denim on his 1917s... I'd e-mail him and check before you pull the trigger though if its important.
 

Doug C

Member
airfrog wrote:
edit: looks like Dejan has Japanese denim on his 1917s... I'd e-mail him and check before you pull the trigger though if its important.
, yes I'd definately varify before ordering (don't have the money at the moment anyway). Did you see this on the website somewhere, it's not part of the 1917 description that I could see... not that i don't believe it, just curious to read about it :roll: :) .

Doug C
 

airfrogusmc

Well-Known Member
Doug C said:
airfrog wrote:
edit: looks like Dejan has Japanese denim on his 1917s... I'd e-mail him and check before you pull the trigger though if its important.
, yes I'd definately varify before ordering (don't have the money at the moment anyway). Did you see this on the website somewhere, it's not part of the 1917 description that I could see... not that i don't believe it, just curious to read about it :roll: :) .

Doug C

Theres a thread over at sufu about it.

http://www.superfuture.com/supertalk/sh ... 4&page=301

post # 3002

It says that they're probably Japanese. Cone would be one offs...

The 1915s will be cone.
 

Doug C

Member
Airfrog, I'm not trying to be difficult or a smart-ass or anything but that thead and post#3002 that you just gave me is the very same one that I quoted a couple of posts up (I quoted it as evidence that the 1917s would be from Kurabo denim), so yea I already saw that about the 1917s but what I was asking is where did you see a similar statement from Cultizm? you wrote:
edit: looks like Dejan has Japanese denim on his 1917s...

...you also also wrote:
The 1915s will be cone.
So, you don't think there's anything to the remarks about all early models being made from Kurabo (japanese) denim? I got that from Paul too:
Code:
these early jeans are all Kurabo.
and
Code:
Kurabo tend to produce all the fabric that was originally made by Amoskeag.
(meaning everything before 1922).
Doug C
 

airfrogusmc

Well-Known Member
Doug C said:
Airfrog, I'm not trying to be difficult or a smart-ass or anything but that thead and post#3002 that you just gave me is the very same one that I quoted a couple of posts up (I quoted it as evidence that the 1917s would be from Kurabo denim), so yea I already saw that about the 1917s but what I was asking is where did you see a similar statement from Cultizm? you wrote:
edit: looks like Dejan has Japanese denim on his 1917s...

...you also also wrote:
The 1915s will be cone.
So, you don't think there's anything to the remarks about all early models being made from Kurabo (japanese) denim? I got that from Paul too:
Code:
these early jeans are all Kurabo.
and
Code:
Kurabo tend to produce all the fabric that was originally made by Amoskeag.
(meaning everything before 1922).
Doug C

1915 was the first year that Levis used cone and the new 1915s are called 1915 cone collaboration (they're in the European F/W catalog and listed as cone collaboration) and supposedly cone really did there research on the denim and is producing a very close match to the original denim. These will be available in the fall/winter.

from Levis

levis_timeline-2.jpg
 

airfrogusmc

Well-Known Member
Doug C said:
Airfrog, I'm not trying to be difficult or a smart-ass or anything but that thead and post#3002 that you just gave me is the very same one that I quoted a couple of posts up (I quoted it as evidence that the 1917s would be from Kurabo denim), so yea I already saw that about the 1917s but what I was asking is where did you see a similar statement from Cultizm? you wrote:
edit: looks like Dejan has Japanese denim on his 1917s...


Sorry Doug I was agreeing with you about most of the early model LVCs being Japanese denim. I had a pair of killer 1901s and still have a pair of 1886s that are made of very nice 10 oz japanese denim.
 

Doug C

Member
ok, I gotcha' and thanks for the info! I guess it makes since too that the 1915 and 1917 be made from different denims, as I imagine that'll be one of the few things to differentiate the two. And, I guess ultimately it'll be a good excuse for me to need a pair of '15s too ;) .

Doug C
 

stanier

Well-Known Member
Sorry guys, but just going back to the selvage question, when did the red line move to a central position on the white background?

Was there always some made with it there, or was it introcuced around the time of the '44's?

Or something different?

Cheers all
 

Burnsie

New Member
stanier said:
Sorry guys, but just going back to the selvage question, when did the red line move to a central position on the white background?

Was there always some made with it there, or was it introcuced around the time of the '44's?

Or something different?

Cheers all

Seems to correspond roughly with the introduction of the red tab and hidden rivets. So, late 30's. I base this purely on personal observation of originals, it may actually be documented somewhere...?
 

Grant

Well-Known Member
Evil jeans were made by a vintage collector/ retailer based in Long Beach, CA. A couple years ago when Levi's was on a witch hunt threatening legal action against anyone they thought was trying to infringe on their beloved Levi logo and acruate made him stop selling his jeans. Us geeks in the denim world knew about his jeans and really prized them for the beautiful red lined selvage Japanese denim, classic 30's 501 cinch back cut and the fair price he was selling them for ($99). I used to have a couple pairs but lost weight so had to sell them on. When I tried to source a smaller size he was already forced out of business and couldn't sell them. I really liked the big E EVIL tag he used in place of the red tagged LEVI's tag. I was really sad to see them go as they were a low priced way to get a pair of good jeans.
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
Hi Grant thanks for the info ,why did he not make his own style and keep on selling some sort of jean .If he lost the arctuate and the tab ,after all he was probably on the map and people knew about him and his product he could of made a go of it .


Al the best jeff
 

Grant

Well-Known Member
Hi jeff,
Not sure, but from what I heard Levi's gave him so much trouble he decided to stop producing. He was basically a mom and pop operation crushed by big brother. His wife still has a cool vintage store in Long Beach if you ever get that way.
 

Swing

New Member
Grant said:
Hi jeff,
Not sure, but from what I heard Levi's gave him so much trouble he decided to stop producing. He was basically a mom and pop operation crushed by big brother. His wife still has a cool vintage store in Long Beach if you ever get that way.

Mom and pop, or big time operation, a trademark is a trademark, and I can't say I blame Levis for protecting their's.

~Swing
 

Grant

Well-Known Member
I'm sure you do. I wish Levi's put as much effort in trying to get their LVC line right as they did in trying to protect their copyright.
 

Swing

New Member
Grant said:
I'm sure you do. I wish Levi's put as much effort in trying to get their LVC line right as they did in trying to protect their copyright.

Good point! :lol:

~Swing
 
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