LVC 501s

[Grant]

... and not charging so much for them! Then again, I guess they gotta pay for all those lawyers.

 

[Doug C]

Can someone please explain the meaning of "single stitch pockets" to me. I thought I knew what that was with regards to Levis but apparently not. I thought it meant that the arcuates (arches) were sewn individually with a single needle machine and lacked the little diamond stitching at the points that the later models had (early '50s or so, and up). But lately I've realized that must not be the case because I've seen atleast two pairs of originals described as single needle but that do have the little diamond stitches on the arches. So someone set me straight.

Doug C

 

[airfrogusmc]

Can someone please explain the meaning of "single stitch pockets" to me. I thought I knew what that was with regards to Levis but apparently not. I thought it meant that the arcuates (arches) were sewn individually with a single needle machine and lacked the little diamond stitching at the points that the later models had (early '50s or so, and up). But lately I've realized that must not be the case because I've seen atleast two pairs of originals described as single needle but that do have the little diamond stitches on the arches. So someone set me straight.

Doug C

Doug,
Heres single

another single

Heres double

If it has the diamond shape its double needle. The double needles are needles that are side by side so theres no way they could make the arcuate and not have a diamond. SO if they say its single needle and theres a diamond shape thats not correct info.

 

[Doug C]

Yea, OK I was right then in my understanding of the term. I guess maybe people throw that term into their auctions without thinking about it and for a little extra flavor or something. Here's just one example that I've come across lately of folks describeing double stitched pockets as single stitched ones.... these ones read "single stitch pockets with red and gold threads,.." (Original Deadstock with a zipper)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 0292533165

Doug C

 

[Swing]

Yea, OK I was right then in my understanding of the term. I guess maybe people throw that term into their auctions without thinking about it and for a little extra flavor or something. Here's just one example that I've come across lately of folks describeing double stitched pockets as single stitched ones.... these ones read "single stitch pockets with red and gold threads,.." (Original Deadstock with a zipper)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 0292533165

Doug C

Always amazed me to see items like these jeans that have sat around unused for 55 years. Any guesses about where that auction will finish at this weekend? I'll say around $3000.

~Swing

 

[Miles_Archer]

When an eBayer seller describes a pair of Levi's as having single stitch pockets, they are a not making a reference to the arcuates but instead the hem at the top of the back pockets and watch pocket.

 

[Doug C]

Miles_Archer wrote:

they are a not making a reference to the arcuates but instead the hem at the top of the back pockets and watch pocket.

Miles can you elaborate? I'm not so sure that's the case, I just went to cultizm to look at the 1901 501 and one of the features that is detailed in the write-up description is "single needle arcuates", so that sounds like it should be the arches that "single needle" refers to (I knew I got that idea somewhere). Also, the pockets in the ebay link that I listed above have two thread lines at the top of the pockets, unless I'm not understanding which seam you're talking about. So again that would not gel with the auction description anyway.

Doug C

 

[Burnsie]

When an eBayer seller describes a pair of Levi's as having single stitch pockets, they are a not making a reference to the arcuates but instead the hem at the top of the back pockets and watch pocket.

Yes. I bought and sold vintage Levi's all through the 90's to the Japanese through Farley Enterprises - "single stitch" referred to the inside top of the back pockets on pre 1974 Levi's. After that they were double stitched (or "cable stitched").

 

[Burnsie]

Also, the pockets in the ebay link that I listed above have two thread lines at the top of the pockets, unless I'm not understanding which seam you're talking about.
Doug C

To clarify, they were always 2 thread lines - 2 rows of single stitching as opposed to the later two rows of double/cable stitching.
Here's a pic from an article I wrote in the March '97 issue of Continental Restyling:

 

[Doug C]

So burnsie, just so I understand what you're saying then - there is always going to be two rows of stitching at the top of the pockets, but those two rows of stitching became chainstitched around '74. So "single needle pockets" and "single needle arcuates" are two distinctively different things - interesting!. 501 models before about '47 would have included both of these (terms), but not after.
Doug C

 

[Burnsie]

So burnsie, just so I understand what you're saying then - there is always going to be two rows of stitching at the top of the pockets, but those two rows of stitching became chainstitched around '74. So "single needle pockets" and "single needle arcuates" are two distinctively different things - interesting!. 501 models before about '47 would have included both of these (terms), but not after.
Doug C

You win the kewpie doll! After aprox '47 Levi's would have had single STITCH pockets with double NEEDLE arcs...yes!

 

[Doug C]

You win the kewpie doll!

..hmm, hold onto it, I wouldn't want to ruin your collection
Doug C

 

[Happy Hooligan]

Yea, OK I was right then in my understanding of the term. I guess maybe people throw that term into their auctions without thinking about it and for a little extra flavor or something. Here's just one example that I've come across lately of folks describeing double stitched pockets as single stitched ones.... these ones read "single stitch pockets with red and gold threads,.." (Original Deadstock with a zipper)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 0292533165

Doug C

apparently someone made one heck of a buy it now price on those for him to cancel the auction...

 

[Doug C]

So, what does the "S" stand for on my 1944 501s? The leather tag reads "S501xx" . My others do not..

Doug C

 

[deeb7]

So, what does the "S" stand for on my 1944 501s? The leather tag reads "S501xx" . My others do not..

The “S” means “Simplified”, where less refined materials went into the original 1944 edition in order to conserve for the war effort during World War II.

 

[Doug C]

makes perfect sense, thanks.
Doug C

 

[airfrogusmc]

If anyones interested here are some detailed shots of the 1917s I jsut got from Dejan. I ordered them on Monday and they came this AM.

It also came with a bag and a book in a bag...

 

[Happy Hooligan]

super nice...

are those chalk lines on the arcs?

 

[airfrogusmc]

Yeah thats what they are...

 

[Swing]

If anyones interested here are some detailed shots of the 1917s I jsut got from Dejan. I ordered them on Monday and they came this AM.

Never fails to amaze me how quick, and relatively inexpensively, he can ship jeans out to people.

Cool looking pair of jeans! Got an over all shot, front and back? What's the waist actually measure?

After wearing my Full Counts for a month I'm back into my '44 501s for this week. Damn I love how they fit! Need to get me another pair!

~Swing