Anything and Everything A-1

[klc]

Hi KLC and welcome.
I have the Eastman A1 and whilst I understand in part your doubt over the smoothness of the Capeskin, I have to say in three months of light wear mine it is already developing character and a "patina" that will make it superb.
I await the summer months when its my jacket to wear. They say its like wearing a waistcoat and so far so true.
Either way hope you get one and in the manufacturer of your choice.
What size are you ?
Also remember they are tight fighting so get the next size up from normal.

Thanks for the feedback, Persimmon. I saw some Eastman A-1 when I went through the past 60 something pages in this thread. Could you post some pictures of what yours look like now?

 

[zoomer]

Any idea why my ELC A-1 has developed a darkish splotch or two - like grease or oil, neither of which I would let anywhere near it?

The edges of said splotches are not well-defined (blurry) and they're not all that dark, so the look of the jacket isn't badly harmed. Just wondering what might have caused it - the main substances it's exposed to are perspiration and rain.

 

[bseal]

Perspiration and oil from one's touch does it.

 

[John Lever]

I unwisely wore mine at a meal on holiday. Pumpkin seed oil spotted on the front.
I tried whiskey and vodka to remove it without success. Only dry cleaning fluid got it out, but it left a dry pale patch.This I buffed in by hand.

 

[Persimmon]

Battle Scars John.
Its a war remember !!

 

[zoomer]

I wonder what they used to put on them to make them oil and grease resistant - which was one of the main reasons for leather garments (at least way, way back in WW1)? Or am I thinking too hard?

 

[John Lever]

They probably had other things on their minds like burning to death in the cockpit ...

 

[bristolherc]

Few A-1, in natural finish, 9 months wear.......

Bevan

 

[zoomer]

That tawny color, along with it just being an A-1, looks molto italiano. You need a Spider Veloce convertible with Claudia Cardinale in the right seat.

 

[John Lever]

I like it, the new camera ?
It's very good for colour in low light levels.

 

[bristolherc]

I like it, the new camera ?
It's very good for colour in low light levels.

Yup, the 7D, I thought I took one or two with the pocket flap lifted to show how much it had darkened, the hide when new is really like a babies bum, this jacket looks the biz,

Bevan.

 

[deeb7]

Here's a strange thing, my new Eastman A-1 has the sleeve seam matching up to the yoke seam across the back, on my FEW A-1, and most others the seam meets the shoulder seam.

Which one is correct, Eastman right, they copied an original? Turns out they both are ... the pictures in Suit Up show a jacket with the same contract label as the Eastman, but with the sleeve seam meeting the shoulder seam.

So ... sleeve attachment was either random, or the pattern was changed during the contract.

 

[Doug C]

Damd Bevan, just saw your latest A-1.... nice! Is it made with olive colored thread, I can't quite tell ? Either way, it does "look tha biz".

Deeb7 that's interesting about the seam linening up... the other option could be that the whole contract label could be a bunch of marketing crap . I don't mean to incinuate that the modern mfg's are not sticking to the contract deigns but more so that maybe those contract numbers mean more to us than they did the sewers that were making them back in the 20s and 30s, and perhaps the quality controll was lax during that time too, who knows. I wonder now about the ELC I used to have, will have to check some old photos when I get a chance.

Doug C

 

[Falcon_52]

That's interesting about the outer sleeve seam. The way that The Few's A-1 is put together would probably be more comfortable since the seam wouldn't be right on the elbow. Maybe certain manufacturers made them this way?

Actually, have there ever been any manufacturers identified for the original A-1s? You always see the famous label with the drawing number and order number but never a manufacturer label. I always figured maybe Security Aviation Togs or Werber (or Schott ) but that's just a wild guess.

Noel

 

[John Lever]

Recently I saw several original A-1 type jackets. They were 1930's, British and made from capeskin.
Some had elasticated waists some were all leather.
I think the design may have been taken to the US by Jewish migrant tailors from Europe.

 

[deeb7]

That's interesting about the outer sleeve seam. The way that The Few's A-1 is put together would probably be more comfortable since the seam wouldn't be right on the elbow. Maybe certain manufacturers made them this way?

Good thinking, Noel ... that would be a reason to change. That would make the Eastman original the early version of 31-800 P.

 

[deeb7]

Actually, have there ever been any manufacturers identified for the original A-1s? You always see the famous label with the drawing number and order number but never a manufacturer label. I always figured maybe Security Aviation Togs or Werber (or Schott ) but that's just a wild guess.

The only known maker identified in Full Gear, is Order No. W535 AC2486, DWG No. 074734 MIRABELLI BROS. CO. circa 1928.

31-800 P AN-6501 remains unknown ... yes, Security, and Werber would be contenders, Switlik another.

Civilian makers include Knopf with the leather collar, copied by THE FEW in 2005, and Gordon & Ferguson, makers of the jackets offered in the Karl Ort catalogues. Nicholas-Beazley Airplane Co. offered a version Made in Accordance with Government Specification AN6501 ... but again the maker is unknown.

 

[alcon]

On the topic of color - Is the "sage green" color shown in previous postings considered "O.D. Color" as defined in the contract shown on Page 60 of this thread?

 

[bobbyball]

I had read somewhere that Werber made A-1s back in the late 1920s? Maybe wrong. As to its origin IMO it is European influenced.

The early days of flight and motoring were closely linked and I know the italians had a jacket known as the ‘Mille Miglia' which has been much copied in reverse suede. I have also seen early British jackets that are very similar in terms of knits and small patch pockets from the thirties.

Also, many of the AAF contractor companies originally had European roots – Roughwear, Doniger, Fried Ostermann, Dubow, Werber – just a wild supposition on my part?

 

[Doug C]

Domestic Capeskin.... just large fleeceless sheepskin leather, no ? Or is there actually such an animal ?