My last A-2 (hopefully) - Good Wear

[Dany McDonald]

GW 1761 arrived yesterday and it did not disappoint! Really happy with the fit considering that this was my first order from JC. I can't get over how absolutely cool this contract is with the blackened Talon zip, exposed blackened hardware, ring snaps, OD thread and zipper tape, and dark rust cotton lining.

You know what Lukas, after review, the shoulders are wrong on you... it just doesn't work...
Keep me posted once the return has been accepted, I have to contact John Chapman for something...

 

[coolhandluke]

I'm pretty sure JC hand-dyed mine. Not certain though.

I double checked my emails with JC and he did specifically mention that it was the same batch of Horween that your RW came out of. Unfortunately no mention on whether or not it was hand dyed. I am definitely thinking that you may be correct though.

 

[tempusfugit]

Amazing how different you jacket looks in the sunlight vs the car shot, coolhandluke! Beautiful jacket and great fit.

 

[Dany McDonald]

I double checked my emails with JC and he did specifically mention that it was the same batch of Horween that your RW came out of. Unfortunately no mention on whether or not it was hand dyed. I am definitely thinking that you may be correct though.

The color is amazing and I'd be interested to know, if its a JC job, how he did the finish on that skin. It's really well done and just the right amount of shine.
The aging that jacket will radiate...!

D

 

[coolhandluke]

You know what Lukas, after review, the shoulders are wrong on you... it just doesn't work...
Keep me posted once the return has been accepted, I have to contact John Chapman for something...

It's funny you mention the shoulders. I was honestly real concerned about the width of the shoulders. I knew that a Bronco was wide in the shoulders, but didn't quite realize how that translated to the cut of front panels, given how square they are. They're noticeably wider than even my RW 18091. When I first saw JC in the jacket I worried that I'd be swimming in it. Thankfully those fears were incorrect. Any narrower of a shoulder width would have been restricting and this jacket is one of the few that I can fully zip without the chest puckering.

 

[CK90]

It's funny you mention the shoulders. I was honestly real concerned about the width of the shoulders. I knew that a Bronco was wide in the shoulders, but didn't quite realize how that translated to the cut of front panels, given how square they are. They're noticeably wider than even my RW 18091. When I first saw JC in the jacket I worried that I'd be swimming in it. Thankfully those fears were incorrect. Any narrower of a shoulder width would have been restricting and this jacket is one of the few that I can fully zip without the chest puckering.

Fits absolutely perfectly. That's not to be understated either on the chest drape, no pulling at all, just drapes. Nothing like an A-2 that hangs just so like that, beautiful.

 

[Dany McDonald]

Totally get it, that back/shoulder can be deceiving when testing a new A-2, especially if you don't like the enveloping fit with leather.

D

 

[blackrat2]

In the first outdoor pic there looks like a mottled if that’s the correct term appearance to the colour, it’s certainly all the better for it as looks stunning

 

[CK90]

We're fortunate to have a tannery like Horween still thriving in the world today. They've got some ridiculous magic going on in their forumlas, their leathers are just incredible. I mean, look at the texture on Coolhand's new Bronco. Otherworldly.

 

[A2wander]

GW 1761 arrived yesterday and it did not disappoint! Really happy with the fit considering that this was my first order from JC. I can't get over how absolutely cool this contract is with the blackened Talon zip, exposed blackened hardware, ring snaps, OD thread and zipper tape, and dark rust cotton lining.

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very nice jacket!!!!

 

[coolhandluke]

We're fortunate to have a tannery like Horween still thriving in the world today. They've got some ridiculous magic going on in their forumlas, their leathers are just incredible. I mean, look at the texture on Coolhand's new Bronco. Otherworldly.

The problem with Horween HH is that their hides are not universally this nice. There's apparently quite a number of blemishes or flaws in their hides that add up to a lot of lost material. There's also a lot of hides that are pretty dull and characterless. From what I understand, it's a crapshoot purchasing directly from the tannery. JC has to go through a secondary source just to aquire his stock. I think he'd probably like to offer Horween more, but it's just too big of a pain to deal with.

 

[CK90]

The problem with Horween HH is that their hides are not universally this nice. There's apparently quite a number of blemishes or flaws in their hides that add up to a lot of lost material. There's also a lot of hides that are pretty dull and characterless. From what I understand, it's a crapshoot purchasing directly from the tannery. JC has to go through a secondary source just to aquire his stock. I think he'd probably like to offer Horween more, but it's just too big of a pain to deal with.

That's a shame to hear actually, especially something as valuable as horse hide. When I think of Horween I always think of everything from Chromexcel, to Cordovan. I always considered them one of the top tanneries in not just the U.S.A, the world. I suppose it is a business at the end of the day, so J.C is going to have a completely different, more realistic to be honest, experience than me just admiring all these beautiful leathers.

I dare say he probably has an easier time dealing with Shinki or his Italian tanneries, simply because they deal exclusively in HH. He probably knows when he places an order exactly what quality to expect.

 

[mulceber]

That's a shame to hear actually, especially something as valuable as horse hide. When I think of Horween I always think of everything from Chromexcel, to Cordovan. I always considered them one of the top tanneries in not just the U.S.A, the world. I suppose it is a business at the end of the day, so J.C is going to have a completely different, more realistic to be honest, experience than me just admiring all these beautiful leathers.

Oh I think they still are. They just do things their way, and have been for longer than anyone in the business. If there's a higher than average amount of spoilage, it's the price of doing business.

I dare say he probably has an easier time dealing with Shinki or his Italian tanneries, simply because they deal exclusively in HH. He probably knows when he places an order exactly what quality to expect.

I've heard stories about them through the grapevine as well. Shinki, you send in an order, and everything goes radio silence. Then months later you'll randomly hear from them "ok, it's ready." Victoria (Italy) is much more reliable in their timing, but they stretch the HH, so if you don't want your jackets to shrink, you have to pre-shrink the hide. And they also often have this pebbly, almost goatskin-like quality to them.

 

[CK90]

Oh I think they still are. They just do things their way, and have been for longer than anyone in the business. If there's a higher than average amount of spoilage, it's the price of doing business.


I've heard stories about them through the grapevine as well. Shinki, you send in an order, and everything goes radio silence. Then months later you'll randomly hear from them "ok, it's ready." Victoria (Italy) is much more reliable in their timing, but they stretch the HH, so if you don't want your jackets to shrink, you have to pre-shrink the hide. And they also often have this pebbly, almost goatskin-like quality to them.

Very much so Jan, so do I. Nothing as classic and beautiful as Horween leathers. Between them and Shinki, I have to say they'd be my top two.

 

[Pa12]

Out of curiosity, where does jc get his cowhide from?

 

[CK90]

Out of curiosity, where does jc get his cowhide from?

Think Jan can probably answer this one best but it's a mixture I think PA. Horween, Italian tanneries amongst others I'm sure

 

[entertainment]

Oh I think they still are. They just do things their way, and have been for longer than anyone in the business. If there's a higher than average amount of spoilage, it's the price of doing business.


I've heard stories about them through the grapevine as well. Shinki, you send in an order, and everything goes radio silence. Then months later you'll randomly hear from them "ok, it's ready." Victoria (Italy) is much more reliable in their timing, but they stretch the HH, so if you don't want your jackets to shrink, you have to pre-shrink the hide. And they also often have this pebbly, almost goatskin-like quality to them.

Apparently, the color is also quite random with Shinki, whereas Victoria has very little variation.
I like the pebbly grain on the Victoria hides.

 

[mulceber]

Basically yes. I think that apart from a couple tanneries that he orders directly from (Shinki, Victoria, the Pakistani tannery he gets goatskin from, and maybe the tannery he gets his Mexican goatskin from), he mostly buys leather from leather merchants like Tandy.

 

[coolhandluke]

Apparently, the color is also quite random with Shinki, whereas Victoria has very little variation.
I like the pebbly grain on the Victoria hides.

+1...I like Victoria too. I just don't like when it's not shrunk after being stretched. Learned that lesson the hard way.

 

[entertainment]

+1...I like Victoria too. I just don't like when it's not shrunk after being stretched. Learned that lesson the hard way.

I was under the impression that JC preshrinks the Victoria hides, but perhaps that is my personal delusion.
I have several jackets in Victoria and have not experienced any problems. I think I have worn all of them in the rain.