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Goldsmith A-2 Reproduction - Headwind Mfg Co

Ken at Aero Leather

Well-Known Member
golsmith Collarbutton.jpg
 

Skyhawk

Well-Known Member
This started off with the button pockets being the recognizing feature of these earliest of A-2s. Now, I think instead it should be the collar! Far out.

For sure. It appears the first 2 jackets made, the Spalding XA-2 test jacket, and the Goldsmith contract had the wide collars.

Only a year after the Goldsmith, the collar was changed to a smaller profile with the SAT contract. If we ever find the original drawings, we may be able to see when and how they changed that. I think the collar width was specified after the first 2 jackets were made, and probably was a spec. when the SAT was made. It could be there was no guidance before then, and Goldsmith made their collar a similar size to the large Spalding collar.

Spalding XA-2 Goldsmith A-2
Collar-Close-up.jpg
Close-up-collar.png
 
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Skyhawk

Well-Known Member
Hi

Hi Jay, thanks for sharing these photos. The both pockets look a little bit narrower than original in the historical photos.
Very good! You get a gold star. The pockets appear smaller on this jacket because it is our largest size, size 48. However, the pockets are about .5" too narrow by my estimates. They looked OK on the size 38 but on the bigger jackets, they appear too small. This will be changed on the next jacket and all future jackets will have .5" wider pockets.

The pockets were more narrow on the Goldsmith jacket than the standard later A-2 pockets. This was a transitional contract that used elements from the A-1, the pockets were widened for the next contract, the SAT A-2, a year later.
Close-up.png


Regards,
Jay
 

Juanito

Well-Known Member
Having followed this closely since the Goldsmith was "discovered" and that we are going off old phtos without much detail, I wonder about the double stitched epaulet compared to the SAT single stitch. Was there a reason for choosing one over the other? Maybe I missed something about that.
 

Skyhawk

Well-Known Member
Having followed this closely since the Goldsmith was "discovered" and that we are going off old phtos without much detail, I wonder about the double stitched epaulet compared to the SAT single stitch. Was there a reason for choosing one over the other? Maybe I missed something about that.
Man you guys are too good! Yes the eps get the single line of stitching. This is the only test jacket with the double stitch lines. That was an error that will not happen again (after my thrashing! Just kidding I wasn't too harsh to my crew)

Honestly this is just my interpretation. The epaulets are not visible in any photos. With the SAT having the single stitch lines, I believe the Goldsmith would have the simpler single stitch lines as well, being only one year earlier. Aero actually used double lines on their version. Ours will be single stitch lines.

-Jay
 

Juanito

Well-Known Member
Man you guys are too good! Yes the eps get the single line of stitching. This is the only test jacket with the double stitch lines. That was an error that will not happen again (after my thrashing! Just kidding I wasn't too harsh to my crew)

Honestly this is just my interpretation. The epaulets are not visible in any photos. With the SAT having the single stitch lines, I believe the Goldsmith would have the simpler single stitch lines as well, being only one year earlier. Aero actually used double lines on their version. Ours will be single stitch lines.

-Jay
I would agree with all that. Looking forward to seeing the final version with much interest.
 

Skyhawk

Well-Known Member
We’re fortunate to have a new member Buchlink who owns the SAT with us . He’s very willing to post photos of his original SAT that Jay can put to good use in tuning up his SAT repro.
Yes I have contacted him for more in depth measurements... No response yet but I am hopeful.

It could be a fantastic thing for us all! In the photos he has posted so far, I have already found some details that were missed on past reproductions.

-Jay
 

Skyhawk

Well-Known Member
Any Ideas on a source Ken?;)

These originals appear to have had lighter Tan cotton. Maybe the spec was changed during production. Also I don't see stitch holes from the label or hanger on that original of Bucklink's. Maybe a replaced liner.
32-485.jpg

DSC_0197_zpsyiklnazp.jpg
 

Ken at Aero Leather

Well-Known Member
Any Ideas on a source Ken?;)

These originals appear to have had lighter Tan cotton. Maybe the spec was changed during production. Also I don't see stitch holes from the label or hanger on that original of Bucklink's. Maybe a replaced liner.
View attachment 27846
View attachment 27847

Sorry Jay, our source went bust years ago, we tried a few other sources with no luck, most folk didn't k even now what we were talking about
The SAT in questions has not been relined, that's 100% certain
 

Ken at Aero Leather

Well-Known Member
Just thought of something, it's the same silk we use for blood chits, US Flags
If you got one of those you'd have something spot on to show suppliers, wrong colour obviously but it's the best spun silk you'll find
 

Skyhawk

Well-Known Member
Cool thanks Ken! I will try but may have to go with Tan cotton. There are examples of cotton being used on the SAT and I would think that Silk was only on a very limited number of A-2's. I don't think we have seen another example of silk. As we know, the specs were changed and showed up with the Silk blacked out very early on.
 

Ken at Aero Leather

Well-Known Member
Man you guys are too good! Yes the eps get the single line of stitching. This is the only test jacket with the double stitch lines. That was an error that will not happen again (after my thrashing! Just kidding I wasn't too harsh to my crew)

Honestly this is just my interpretation. The epaulets are not visible in any photos. With the SAT having the single stitch lines, I believe the Goldsmith would have the simpler single stitch lines as well, being only one year earlier. Aero actually used double lines on their version. Ours will be single stitch lines.

-Jay

Lack of logic here.......... No double stitching anywhere on the new "SAT?"
Yet surely the double stitching on the Goldsmith pockets matched the epaullettes? (as on the "SAT?" Why wouldn't it?
 

Ken at Aero Leather

Well-Known Member
Cool thanks Ken! I will try but may have to go with Tan cotton. There are examples of cotton being used on the SAT and I would think that Silk was only on a very limited number of A-2's. I don't think we have seen another example of silk. As we know, the specs were changed and showed up with the Silk blacked out very early on.

Deja Vu

Even when a new proof comes up that Silk WAS used the old adage "Ah but just this one" is churned out again and again
ZuZu got it, bless him
 

Ken at Aero Leather

Well-Known Member
I have to admit Aero probably boobed big time in NOT using a Spun Silk for our Goldsmith, never mind "Mark the "X" on the epaulette, faux pas"
 

Skyhawk

Well-Known Member
Lack of logic here.......... No double stitching anywhere on the new "SAT?"
Yet surely the double stitching on the Goldsmith pockets matched the epaullettes? (as on the "SAT?" Why wouldn't it?

I would say it is a matter of opinion, we differ there and that is fine.

Another point though is why so do many A-2's have single line of stitching on the pockets and double lines on the epaulets? Shouldn't they both be single stitched?
 

Skyhawk

Well-Known Member
I have to admit Aero probably boobed big time in NOT using a Spun Silk for our Goldsmith, never mind "Mark the "X" on the epaulette, faux pas"
Yeah it may be worth changing to silk in the future if I can find a source. It appears that change happened during the SAT contract, according to this new evidence.

With the X on the Eps, god only knows. They were all over the place. Ours will be showing the X though.
 

Skyhawk

Well-Known Member
You know that theory makes sense. The Goldsmith contract was only 25 jackets so Silk was probably not a problem to source. Take the SAT contract a year later for 1600+ jackets, they may have gotten through the first 100-200 jackets and couldn't source enough Silk. The Army scratched out silk and changed to Tan "Cotton Sateen".

That jacket of Buckcheck may be even more significant than we thought. As we know, a silk liner was stated in the original specs and then changed early on. As far as we know, a silk liner has never been seen and we just thought the spec was changed before any were made.......maybe not.
-Jay
 
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