Spitfireace
Well-Known Member
That would be a question for the Modulators of this site.
Those are the sources I'm aware of. That being said, Dave has said elsewhere that silk thread looks noticeably different from cotton because it's more shiny. So it's not as if they're making this claim just on the basis of jackets where they've taken the garment apart and tested the threads. @Maverickson can correct me if I'm wrong, but I think someone with a practiced eye can tell cotton from silk just by taking a close look at the jacket.Are we using the experience of 2 current M422a repro makers (John Chapman and Dave Sheeley) as the basis for the view that cotton was used in that they have determined cotton was the thread used in jackets they have taken apart?
Could very well be the case (and if so, we'd be happy to correct that error) - I'm not as well-versed in the later G-1s and I don't think I worked on that section. My impression was that impressed cowhide came in at around the same time as dynal collars, but that could be wrong. Does anyone else have an answer on this one?2. Are we sure there are 7823Ds made with pressed cowhide? I think that came with the 'E's!
I agree that sometimes it's easy to tell silk thread apart from cotton. I had a beautifully intact RW 18091 that I'm 90% sure was sewn with dark brown silk thread. Thin shiny strong.Those are the sources I'm aware of. That being said, Dave has said elsewhere that silk thread looks noticeably different from cotton because it's more shiny. So it's not as if they're making this claim just on the basis of jackets where they've taken the garment apart and tested the threads. @Maverickson can correct me if I'm wrong, but I think someone with a practiced eye can tell cotton from silk just by taking a close look at the jacket.
Could very well be the case (and if so, we'd be happy to correct that error) - I'm not as well-versed in the later G-1s and I don't think I worked on that section. My impression was that impressed cowhide came in at around the same time as dynal collars, but that could be wrong. Does anyone else have an answer on this one?
is the 7823E still cowhide and the label still white? I bought one recently from 1971, which I don't have yet since it was delivered to my daughter in London. I don't know what leather it is yet but it has a black label.12. MIL-J-7823E (AS) [1971 - Present]
The 7823E (AS) was introduced in 1971. It adopted the amended features of the late 7823D models; that is, cowhide, dynel collars, and 100% wool, double-ply, no rib-rack knits. The feature that most distinguishes them, however, is the white (as opposed to black) spec label that made its first appearance here.
These are the most abundant but the least collectible of all G-1 types. Although most find that the cowhide creaks and the Dynel collars do not age as well as mouton (mouton tends to go from brown to golden with wear and exposure to the elements, whereas Dynel goes from black to a clumpy ‘dirty grey’), E series jackets are, nonetheless, genuine USN flight jackets and they make for incredibly durable, “where-anywhere, do-anything”, daily beaters. For someone starting to collect Navy flying jackets they can be a very accessible entry point.
SPECIFICATION MIL-J-7823E (AS) Contract dates Comments MIL-J-7823E (AS) BRILL BROS., INC. DSA 100-71-C-1343 1971 MIL-J-7823E (AS) RALPH EDWARDS SPORTSWEAR, INC. MIL-J-7823E (AS) BRILL BROS., INC. DSA-72-C1138 1972 MIL-J-7823E(AS) STAR SPORTSWEAR MFG. CORP. DSA100-72-C-0060 1972 MIL-J-7823E (AS) BRILL BROS., INC. DSA-73-C-0035 1973 MIL-J-7823E(AS) STAR SPORTSWEAR MFG. CORP. DSA100-73-C-0034 1973 MIL-J-7823E(AS) IMPERIAL FASHIONS, INC. DSA100-74-0162 1974 MIL-J-7823E (AS) BRILL BROS., INC. DSA100-75-C-0332 1975 https://www.vintageleatherjackets.o...ermediate-flyers-jacket-mil-j-7823e-as.25952/ MIL-J-7823E(AS) STAR SPORTSWEAR MFG. CORP. DSA100-75-C-0331 1975 MIL-J-7823E(AS) FERGUSON OF OKLAHOMA DSA100-76-C-1788 1976 MIL-J-7823E(AS) IMPERIAL LEATHER & SPORTSWEAR INC. DSA100-76-C-1788 1976 MIL - J 7823E(AS) IMPERIAL LEATHER & SPORTSWEAR INC. DSA100-76-C-0375 1976 MIL-J-7823E (AS) RALPH EDWARDS SPORTSWEAR, INC. DSA100-77-C-1518 1977 MIL-J-7823E (AS) BRILL BROS., INC. DLA100-82-C-0564 1982 MIL-J-7823E (AS) RALPH EDWARDS SPORTSWEAR, INC. DLA100-84-C-0771 1984 MIL-J-7823E(AS) ORCHARD M/C DIST. INC. DLA100-86-C-0481 1986 MIL-J-7823E (AS) BRILL BROS., INC. DLA100-86-C-0451 1986 NONE ON TAG BRILL BROS., INC. DLA100-87-C-0739 1987 MIL-J-7823E(AS) COOPER SPORTSWEAR MFG. CO., INC DLA100-89-C-0480 1989 MIL-J-7823E(AS) COOPER SPORTSWEAR MFG. CO., INC DLA100-91-C-0323 1991 MIL-J-7823E(AS) COOPER SPORTSWEAR MFG. CO. INC DLA100-92-C-0454 1992 MIL-J-7823E COOPER SPORTSWEAR MFG. CO., INC SPO-100-95-M-SH82 1995 MIL-J-7823E COOPER SPORTSWEAR MFG. CO., INC SPO-100-96-C-4015 1996 MIL-J-7823E(AS) SCHOTT BROS., INC. SPO100-98-C-5015 1998 MIL-J-7823E(AS) EXCELLED SHEEPSKIN & LEATHER COAT CO. SPO 100-99-D-5076-0001 1999 MIL-J-7823E(AS) PHARR BRAND NAME APPAREL SP0100-04-D-4247-0001 2004 MIL-J-7823E(AS) EXCELLED SHEEPSKIN & LEATHER COAT CO. SP0 100-04-4119 2004
Ouais, je suis juste tombé dessus hier soir en fouillant sur le CD de John - il souligne que la série E avait PLUPART des étiquettes blanches - c'est-à-dire qu'il y en avait quelques-unes qui avaient des étiquettes noires. Étant donné que votre veste provient du premier contrat de la série E, il n'est pas surprenant que ce soit l'une des étiquettes noires. C'est une erreur que nous devrions suivre.
I feel I ought to bring up the subject of the Irvin B Foster ‘C’ series ‘extra seam’ as talked about in this thread:-
Thread 'New (or nearly so) Irvin Foster G-1'
https://www.vintageleatherjackets.org/threads/new-or-nearly-so-irvin-foster-g-1.27603/
(Post no.8 onwards). AFAIK no other manufacturer did this, I may be nuts but I think it’s worthy of consideration for inclusion in this fabulous thread.
Fascinating - that's one I hadn't encountered before. Have you seen multiple examples with this seam down the middle of the back, or could this have been a one-off?There is also the famous Irvin B Foster with LITERALLY a seam down the middle of the back. I looked through my morgue file and sure enough I found it! Both seams maybe should be discussed- the gusset and this weird anamoly.
Irvin B Foster 'B' seam on back panel:
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I think there may be more examples. I remember it was a thing. I'm pretty sure there are a few.Fascinating - that's one I hadn't encountered before. Have you seen multiple examples with this seam down the middle of the back, or could this have been a one-off?
That’s it. AFAIK only Irvin B Foster C series jackets had it-had one myself, others including Jorge have confirmed it. I also had one of the seam down the middle jackets-a long time ago, somebody who knew said it was a PX jacket-made on the same production line but not destined for issue.Fascinating - that's one I hadn't encountered before. Have you seen multiple examples with this seam down the middle of the back, or could this have been a one-off?
@MikeyB-17, is this the extra seam you're talking about?
Do you happen to have a photo of the one with the seam down the middle? Jeff posted his version above, but I'd like to find a copy without the photobucket watermark on it.That’s it. AFAIK only Irvin B Foster C series jackets had it-had one myself, others including Jorge have confirmed it. I also had one of the seam down the middle jackets-a long time ago, somebody who knew said it was a PX jacket-made on the same production line but not destined for issue.