again - amazing jacket. what does the HH version run $$$$?
AN-J-3A specs require knits to be the same brown color as the jacket. See paragraph bottom of page two pertaining to knits.Just received this gorgeous Monarch AN-J-3A from Dave today, on my 41st birthday. The jacket is patterned from John Z. Colt's size 40 Monarch and marks my first custom order. The new seal goatskin that Dave used is incredibly soft and easy wearing straight out of the box. The grain, color, and thickness are all very reminiscent of a 1958 contract LW Foster that I previously owned.
I'll let the following photos speak for themselves. I'll take a few more detailed photos of the zipper, label, stencil, etc as soon as I have the opportunity to do so.
Thank you @Maverickson. The jacket is an absolute work of art and looks as if it could have come out of a time capsule from 1943.
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AN-J-3A specs require knits to be the same brown color as the jacket. See paragraph bottom of page two pertaining to knits.
Some A2 knits faded to a reddish color with age and sun exposure.
As a customer order modern copy, it is whatever the customer wants.
No question that the jacket is very nicely made.
Three Monarch jackets, plus a mix of others. Never seen red knits myself or in the specs on a USN jacket. I think by the 1940's the wool dying process was more colorYes, you've already made your point and others respectful pointed out that the "required" specifications weren't always followed by those fulfilling the contracts. The jacket maker has specialized in collecting and restoring Monarch manufactured jackets. Likely over decades of time with countless hours of documentation and research. I'll honestly trust his first hand experience in handling original jackets over the published requirements. Let's not beat a dead horse here and just politely agree to disagree.
This photo of an original Monarch AN-J-3A seems relevant:
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If you need further proof that contractors routinely deviated from spec, read up on Foster v. United States. The whole thrust of L.W. Foster's case (which they won), was "hey, you guys have never cared about adhering to specifications before, you can't just start dinging us on it now! Oh and btw, your specifications are unreasonable, because nobody in their right mind would construct a jacket like that."
Dave, you have reached the upper stratosphere with your repros and attention to detail. Go any higher and you’ll need an astronaut suit.Mark,
Yes I agree that it's hard to argue against specifications. That is until you enter the real world.
Please see one of my all original W&G AN-J 3A jackets. One of the jackets I utilized to to derive my interpretation. That jacket can be viewed (# 42) within this same thread.
As seen below with this original AN-J-3A. My reproduction comes from W&G's N288s-35805 contract. Moreover, the jackets from this contract directly contradicts your USN specifications not once but twice.
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Note, the stitch work seen in the close up below appears to be all original.
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That jacket seen above is one of the four like W&G AN-J-3A 35805 jackets I have accumulated. Note the factory red knits and horse hide. Albeit I have witnessed same W&G 35805 jackets with brown colored knits that appeared to be factory.
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Your entire argument reminds me of our conversation regarding that H.L. Block you owned and claimed to be a pre War non labeled M-422. I suppose you convinced yourself your jacket as an M-422 since it did not have the horizontal stitch work along the back of the collar. Exactly like the three builders for the M-422 originally did as per the USN spec.
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A close up of one of my Monarch M-422 reproductions.
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In Spite of the fact that Block choose to omit that horizontal stitch work generally seen on most all M-422a, AN & G-1's. Still it goes without saying that those USN jacket specs do have merit. But they far from being the end all.
Obviously your specifications convinced you again (because as you indicate to me prior that all makers followed USN specifications to a T and you have never seen a deviation) telling you that you Block jacket definitely had to be an M-422 because only the M-422 omitted that stitch work and the specifications backed you up.
All in spite of the fact that Block never built a M-422
Cheers, Dave
That is one gorgeous jacket Coolhand!