Single panel back vs split

[cgreen]

Hi Everyone,

Hope the week's taking it easy on you all - my kids are getting ready for three weeks of sleepover camp and I don't know who's more excited, them or me. Gonna be so nice and quiet around these parts.

Anyway, to the business at hand - can anyone tell me why some jackets have a single piece of leather for the back and some have multiple panels joined via seams? Is this a design choice or is this for functionality? Why do this if you don't have to?

Does it affect the drape? Is it a measure of quality?

I like the look of both but oftentimes the panels will be different hides and as such won't have the same grain or depth of color. What say you all?

Chris

 

[Shanghai-Mayne]

One piece back panel, means higher production cost, one piece of hide build one panel, two pieces cost less, four or six pieces cost much less.

 

[cgreen]

Thank you, I appreciate that. I kinda thought that might be the case - one larger piece of hide being more costly to use than seaming up several smaller pieces from different animals.

Chris

 

[MikeyB-17]

In terms of military jacket collecting, and the A-2 in particular, the spec. calls for a single panel back. Anything else ain’t up to scratch.

 

[cgreen]

In terms of military jacket collecting, and the A-2 in particular, the spec. calls for a single panel back. Anything else ain’t up to scratch.

Thank you - do you know why the specs would call for a single panel? Does the seam provide any type of added mobility? Many cross-zip motorcycle jackets have action backs with additional panels to allow stretching forward while on a bike.

Chris

 

[mulceber]

Thank you - do you know why the specs would call for a single panel? Does the seam provide any type of added mobility? Many cross-zip motorcycle jackets have action backs with additional panels to allow stretching forward while on a bike.

Chris

Action backs afford greater mobility, whereas a single panel is stronger, since stitches are the weak links in a jacket's construction. I seem to recall hearing that the Navy wanted action backs on their intermediate leather jackets because they were concerned about pilots having the range of motion necessary to swim, in the event that the plane came down in the water. I have no idea if that's correct or not, but it makes sense: the Navy has steadfastly adhered to the action back on the G-1, even though it significantly increases the cost of the jacket.

 

[Nickb123]

Have always wondered if some of the multi piece backs (think fan backs - see the Aero Sunburst for example) were a bit of an homage to the art deco look prevalent at the time rather than only using multiple pieces from a cost savings perspective.

 

[CombatWombat]

Have always wondered if some of the multi piece backs (think fan backs - see the Aero Sunburst for example) were a bit of an homage to the art deco look prevalent at the time rather than only using multiple pieces from a cost savings perspective.

That idea goes back to when makers used every single bit of the hide because it cost so much (the Great Depression really messes up things) but it lead to some utterly amazing designs and ingenuity on the part of these designers....
The "Sunburst" and "fan dance" were done by tailors to use every scrap of leather possible but also to make it visually appealing to the potential customers.....despiration and scaresity breeds innovation and ingenuity.
Unfortunately because alot of these companies were little more than a tailors store we've lost alot of the designs and details to history...... we're lucky enough to have people like thedi and Aero (amongst others like Sheely and Kelso) to ressurect them

 

[cgreen]

Those older Art Deco styles are fabulous - are there any current manufacturers doing such things?

 

[Southoftheborder]

Those older Art Deco styles are fabulous - are there any current manufacturers doing such things?

Aero. As was posted above.

 

[Micawber]

The need or desire to utilise every useable piece from a hide is indeed one of the primary factors in multi panels but design and functionality aspects can also play a part. Multiple panels can permit a closer, more tailored appearance or introduce more room and freedom of movement in other areas of the torso. The same applies to fabric jacket styles, consider the difference in fitting of a uniform with multi panel guardsman’s back that is similar in construction above the waist seam to a frock coat versus a casual single breasted sack jacket.

Lots of considerations come into play.