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new ELC roughwear 27752!
- Thread starter Damien
- Start date
I was looking closely at my GW 27752 last night. I am still amazed by the accuracy of these repros. I have a number of old horsehide jackets including 2 original A-2s and do think the leather that JC uses is spot on.
Like originals, the tanning techniques used go right through the leather. If you look closely at the new ELC RW you will see the lighter base of the leather on the underside. This does not appear on the 1930s and 1940s horsehide examples I have and would suggest a different tanning technique. I also have a Buzz Rickson Aero and the tanning also goes right through the surface to the underside.
Given the cost of ELC, and some of the (still) outstanding accuracy issues, I believe Goodwear is the leader at the moment. The only thing stopping me from pulling the trigger on one directly from Goodwear is the fear of getting stung by Customs Duties and Taxes. This would push the cost right up. I may be going to NY later in the year and if so I will see if I can coordinate this visit with having a jacket delivered there for my collection.
Like originals, the tanning techniques used go right through the leather. If you look closely at the new ELC RW you will see the lighter base of the leather on the underside. This does not appear on the 1930s and 1940s horsehide examples I have and would suggest a different tanning technique. I also have a Buzz Rickson Aero and the tanning also goes right through the surface to the underside.
Given the cost of ELC, and some of the (still) outstanding accuracy issues, I believe Goodwear is the leader at the moment. The only thing stopping me from pulling the trigger on one directly from Goodwear is the fear of getting stung by Customs Duties and Taxes. This would push the cost right up. I may be going to NY later in the year and if so I will see if I can coordinate this visit with having a jacket delivered there for my collection.
A
Anonymous
Guest
Grant, nice looking jacket fella !
Looking at the arms, they look pretty full cut. Is that a correct assertion ? Looks like it would be a good jacket for my, ahem, 'athletic body shape
Cheers,
Dave
Looking at the arms, they look pretty full cut. Is that a correct assertion ? Looks like it would be a good jacket for my, ahem, 'athletic body shape
Cheers,
Dave
[/quote]
The "all the way through" hide is aniline dyed, while the "surface only" leather is pigment dyed. John offers both types for his jackets, and I believe both types are accurate for WWII A-2s.
That’s an interesting point – perhps all the vintage examples of horse hide I have are aniline then.
The "all the way through" hide is aniline dyed, while the "surface only" leather is pigment dyed. John offers both types for his jackets, and I believe both types are accurate for WWII A-2s.
That’s an interesting point – perhps all the vintage examples of horse hide I have are aniline then.
Cobblers161
Well-Known Member
Holy Moly Grant, that's a beauty and comparing it to Andrews it's almost identical, same drape etc... Ok the pocket flaps look a little different but these babies were made on production lines and variations were constant.
Another KO for JC! Nice one fella. I'm looking forward to his 18775-P.
Another KO for JC! Nice one fella. I'm looking forward to his 18775-P.
SuinBruin
Well-Known Member
A good resource on this issue is the Good Wear web site. On this page you can scroll down to see what John says about the pigment dyed leather:bobbyball said:
http://www.goodwearleather.com/pages/whats_new.html
And if you look at the edges of the epaulets on this jacket made with the pigment dyed leather you can see how the dye does not permeate the hide, which has a "natural" tone underneath the finish:
http://www.goodwearleather.com/pages/gwpough_images1.html
I have samples of the pigment and aniline HH John uses, and they're both great. Cobblers has a fantastic United Sheeplined in the pigment hide, and CBI just sold a Bronco in that leather that he had used the hot water treatment on -- it looked amazing. I think that my upcoming Dubow will be in the aniline seal horse -- I just love the look of that hide, and it's not as stiff as the pigment dyed leather. But at some point I'll probably want to pick up a jacket in the dull russet pigment finish as well. Variety being the spice of life and all that.... (Of course, to my wife they're all just brown leather jackets. I start talking about Crown zips and aniline leather and she just rolls her eyes. :lol: )
cheers,
matt
A
Anonymous
Guest
Roughwear said:I think your RW looks spot on Grant and just goes to prove that JC makes the most accurate RW repros on the market today. Wear it in good health.
Bearing in mind that I'm no expert and based on the current evidence, I would have to agree Andrew. Particularly with the horse jackets.
Goat I would say is an even split as I can't spot a difference between ELC and GW. Grant's GW and my ELC Cable look like twins. But I would be happy for others to point out those differences
Grant, thanks for the info. Looks like the pattern for me. One day maybe .......... once we're out of this recession.
Dave
Grant
Well-Known Member
Roughwear said:I think your RW looks spot on Grant and just goes to prove that JC makes the most accurate RW repros on the market today. Wear it in good health.
Thanks Andrew, You're right that JC seems to be making some killer jackets these days. The GW Rough Wear 18091 you just took delivery of looks and fits very much like the original contract. The goatskin he's using is by far the most accurate for an A-2. It wears and breaks in just like sixty year old skins and when worn drapes very much like an original. Here's another photo enlarged showing how my Dubow is breaking in. If I keep wearing the shit of this jacket I think you'll be hard pressed to tell it from an original. Have fun breaking in your Rough Wear.
