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Date of Manufacture? 1932 or later, based upon the original and intact Talon M-32 zipper (the name “Hookless” was dropped from the zipper in 1932, leaving simply “Talon” as shown in post #101)
Military Contract? No, based upon the original and intact fabric lined pockets
Jacket Lining? Cotton, per Shawn’s test mentioned in post #47
Leather? Cow or horse (not goat or cape)
What we don’t know about Shawn's jacket:
Pretty much everything else. (That sounds about right, doesn't it?)
I’d be apprehensive to prematurely and presumptively conclude that it’s not a military contract. It very well might indeed yet prove to be the elusive Werber ‘32 contract.
This is pure speculation, but if a military contractor used leather showing branding signs in the hide which ended up in a pocket, adding a lining might be an easy way to get it past an inspector (that is, assuming they had some concern about it being rejected due to a branding mark in the leather).
It doesn't necessarily have to be private purchase / tailor made to have lined pockets, although IMHO that is a more logical conclusion.
Would it be a stretch to use this as a base for a 1729 for now?
Update the pocket corners to be more round.
Change to the 1729 stitching on the pocket reinforcement.
Delete the pocket lining.
Use a 1729 appropriate color for the lining,
The thread looks seal on this, weren't 1729 lighter or is that just what the repros used?
Would the cuffs change to bi-weave?
It really looks in form like Werber made it. To me it's either civilian or maybe 6225... just impossible to know with what is there, and in general, known.
Bit late to the party on this but as touched on very early in this thread, the epaulets look like no other contract Ive seen, maybe I’m wrong and need to scour my ELC handbook again but assuming this is a contract made jacket, surely this is not a one off error so, if all those were made with one row of stitching and ‘poor’ X box stitching too, how did it pass the AN inspectors? Maybe a short cut for civvy street sales???