Crikey, how on earth has a one guy operation accomplished so much knowledge to provide/offer that much choice and consistently turn out the quality he does? Does he work 24/7? What a guy, but then many of us know that!!!As of 2021, this was the list John gave me:
Type A-1:
-----------------------------
Gordon & Ferguson model
Good Wear model
Type A-2:
-----------------------------
Acme 1937
Acme 1938
Acme 16160
Acme 21996
Acme 18775
Bronco 29191
Bronco 1761
Cable Raincoat 10008-P
Cooper Sportswear
David D. Doniger
Dubow 20960
Dubow 23379
Dubow 27798
Dubow 1755
H.L.B. Corp.
Monarch Mfg. Co.
Perry 16175
Perry 23377
Poughskeepsie
Rough Wear 16159
Rough Wear 18091
Rough Wear 1401-P
Rough Wear 1671-P
Rough Wear 23380
Rough Wear 27752
Security Aviation Togs
Spiewak
Star Sportswear
United Sheeplined
Werber Leather Coat Co. '33
Werber Leather Coat Co. '36
Werber Sportswear '39
Werber Sportswear '42
L-2B:
-----------------------------
Skyline Clothing Co.
L-2A:
-----------------------------
L.W. Foster
B-10:
-----------------------------
Good Wear Leather
B-15A:
-----------------------------
Hudson Garment Co.
B-15B
-----------------------------
Great Lakes Garment Co.
Tanker Jacket:
-----------------------------
J.A. Dubow
Type B-6:
-----------------------------
Acme Leather
Arnoff Shoe Co.
Type B-3:
-----------------------------
Acme '39 Redskin
Rough Wear '41 Redskin
Werber Sportswear '41 Redskin
Werber Sportswear '42
No-Name 12690
AN-J-4:
-----------------------------
Acme Leather
Type D-1:
-----------------------------
Knopf
U.S. Navy:
-----------------------------
37J1: Good Wear Leather
M-422: Monarch
M-422: Switlik
M-422: Willis & Chapman
M-422A: Edmund T. Church
M-422A: Gordon & Ferguson
M-422A: H & L Block
AN-6552: Bogen & Tenenbaum
AN-J-3A: Arnoff
AN-J-3A: Gordon & Ferguson
AN-J-3A: Willis & Chapman
G-1 55J14: Aviators Clothing Co.
G-1 55J14: A. Pritzker & Sons
G-1 55J14: L.W. Foster
G-1 55J14: Star Sportswear
G-1 7823: Cagleco
G-1 7823 Amd. #2: L.W. Foster
U. S. Navy Cloth:
-----------------------------
37J1A and B: Good Wear Leather
Deck Jacket, early Alpaca lining with zipper
M-421: Good Wear Leather
U.S. Navy Sheepskin:
-----------------------------
M-444: Willis & Chapman
M-444A: Fried-Ostermann
M-444A: Monarch Mfg. Co.
M-445: Monarch Mfg. Co.
M-445B: Gordon & Ferguson
Civilian Jackets:
-----------------------------
Californian Arcadia
Californian Imperial
Californian Modoc
Californian Mojave
Californian Racer
Californian Seacliff
Californian Ventura
Beck Racer
Buco Racer
Earhart Electra
Hercules '37 HalfBelt
Monarch Grizzly
Scully Bros. zippered Cossack
Rainier buttoned Cossack
Pancho Barnes Flying Jacket
Knowing him, there's a good chance he's added to it by now.
edit: I know there have been things added, because his Switlik B-1 isn't on that list.
Thanks Steve and everyone for the kind words.Superb Nick.
That looks fantastic! I’m hoping to hear from John soon and very excited about the new goatskin…Thanks Steve and everyone for the kind words.
John sent me this montage haha. Left is one of his originals.
View attachment 113733
Thanks Steve and everyone for the kind words.
John sent me this montage haha. Left is one of his originals.
View attachment 113733
Pretty amazing. If only you knew the Rough Wear Saga- John knows Rough Wear better than anyone else by far. There are secrets- for instance- here:Part II - The Details Strike Back
I wanted this post to be more than just a "check out my new jacket!" post, and since I have an original (depot re-dyed) 18091, I'm in a place to do a useful comparison.
Overall: what's really stunning about this repro to me is how much it feels like an original. The pliability and heft of the jacket are spot on for the original. The fit too - it wears just like the original, albeit with a bit more length in the sleeves, which is welcome. Maybe a touch more generous in the chest as well - it's sort of tough to tell, because the knits on this one are MUCH tighter (more on them later) than the original, and that makes the whole jacket feel a bit more fitted.
View attachment 116367
View attachment 116375
View attachment 116369
View attachment 116371
View attachment 116373
The knits are from a new company, although John's been telling me about them for a while: they're made in the USA, and the company that makes them is actually a contractor for the Department of Defense. The comparison below doesn't offer much indication of the accuracy, since this original (bought from @bazelot ) has had its knits replaced. What I can say is that these new knits are SUPER tight, much more so than on previous jackets from John, or on any other A-2 I've had. You can tell just from feeling them that they're densely woven, and the wool is warm, but not itchy, and still breathable. 10/10 on the knits.
View attachment 116377
As you can see from the next couple pictures, the liner is a bit lighter than authentic Rough Wear liner, but the weave of the fabric is spot on. Very few repros really get the weave of the liner right. This one feels the same on the hand. It's a really good detail, and worth it imho to have the color be a bit off if it means getting the texture right.
View attachment 116379
View attachment 116381
The x-box on the right shoulder of this original looks a bit more squat than on the repro - but then if you look at the left shoulder, it's a much better match:
View attachment 116385
View attachment 116383
I'm floored by this one. John hit it out of the park. I definitely recommend people check out John's Pakistani goatskin. I know we love our horsehide, but this is some cool stuff!
As Pilot said, John's really the person who would know. I know 27752 and 1401-P are the most commonly-reproduced, but they aren't the only great Rough Wear contracts. Personally, I really like their first two contracts.Beautiful jacket Jan. Congrats!
Any idea what JC's current wait time is? I believe it was listed as 12-15 months the last time that I visited GW's site.
I was initially leaning towards a RW 27752, but after seeing your 18901, I think that I may have to revisit that decision.