My FIVESTAR G1 has just arrived (well last night)

[daohoangminhnhat]

How much does this jacket weigh?
Inside is cotton lining. Is the lining warm enough in the winter?

 

[Riggs5893]

Fit looks really good...

You did well. Great review post..

Thank you mate

 

[Riggs5893]

This looks like the old pattern. Personally, I would have ordered the new pattern.

This looks like the old pattern. Personally, I would have ordered the new pattern.

What's the difference? I wasn't given a choice between new & old?

 

[Riggs5893]

How much does this jacket weigh?
Inside is cotton lining. Is the lining warm enough in the winter?

Not sure haven't weighed it and will have to wait until Winter to know for sure but it feels warm enough with the cotton lining.

 

[Brettafett]

Have not been following the 5 Star threads lately, but their G-1 (yours) is based on AVI LTHRs original 1950s 55J14 pattern, hence the wider shoulders etc. A couple of us bought these a year or so ago.
I understand recently, 5 Star was loaned a Buzz Rickson G-1 to copy, this may be the second pattern. I think there have been a couple of fellows who have sent Shawn jackets to check, to be able to more accurately copy some details.

 

[Grant]

So, let me get this straight: 5 Star is patterning their repro jacket after a repro? Hmm, no thanks, no matter how cheap it is. ;-)

 

[Brettafett]

As far as their standard G-1/ M422a and 'Bronco' A-2 go, yes. These were either patterns copied from the patterns AVI LTHR had made from their originals, or patterns created from the AVI LTHR jackets themselves (more likely I recon). This is what all that palaver was about a year or two ago.
However, as I understand Shawn's Doniger is his own, and was copied from seeing an original, and tons of reference from us on the forum... not sure about the Werber...
I think a lot of these jackets are based on pics and details sent in by guys on the forums/ customers.
I do know a gentleman who sent Shawn a Buzz G-1 to copy, so that pattern should also be available.

 

[mulceber]

Yeah, I think it's pretty common. I know BK's relic hunter is a "copy of a copy of an original" as well, although in that case, the original wasn't something you could just buy on eBay.

 

[Riggs5893]

Have not been following the 5 Star threads lately, but their G-1 (yours) is based on AVI LTHRs original 1950s 55J14 pattern, hence the wider shoulders etc. A couple of us bought these a year or so ago.
I understand recently, 5 Star was loaned a Buzz Rickson G-1 to copy, this may be the second pattern. I think there have been a couple of fellows who have sent Shawn jackets to check, to be able to more accurately copy some details.

The shoulders are fine as it was made to measure and they fit correctly. The wide shoulders to a tapered waist is what I needed, but it's the length and even the chest which are out by an inch or so each.

 

[Brettafett]

That 'wide shoulders and narrow waist' is a common feature of this particular 55J14 contract, the original that these patterns were based on. It works really well with trim blokes.
I was lucky with mine, that the lengths are ok.

AVI LTHR 55J14 G-1 Jacket knit & zipper 'upgrade' pics

I like my AVI LTHR 55J14 G-1 so much, I decided to invest in some upgrades. There is currently an 'upgraded' version available, but I am very happy with the jacket I already have. So, to bring it up to the 'best it can be'... I replaced the zipper with a 'higher grade' repro silver Talon...

www.vintageleatherjackets.org

 

[MrBlue]

Have not been following the 5 Star threads lately, but their G-1 (yours) is based on AVI LTHRs original 1950s 55J14 pattern, hence the wider shoulders etc. A couple of us bought these a year or so ago.
I understand recently, 5 Star was loaned a Buzz Rickson G-1 to copy, this may be the second pattern. I think there have been a couple of fellows who have sent Shawn jackets to check, to be able to more accurately copy some details.

I remember finding a thread about the Fivestar G1 on these forums, in which the purchaser noticed that the bi-swing back was always open. Members of the forum commented that this because was because of the way the back was constructed - apparently the way to tell is where the seams between the back and front of the jackets are. If the seams are directly underneath the arms, this implies that the bi-swing back will stay open even when the arms are not extended. If the seams are behind the arms, this implies that the bi-swing back will only open when needed.

Hope I've explained that decently! Just from my memory of the thread.

I recall that Shawn's ANJ-3 jacket looks like it has the under arm seams in a different place compared to his G1s. I think somebody sent him an ANJ3 to copy.

 

[Riggs5893]

I remember finding a thread about the Fivestar G1 on these forums, in which the purchaser noticed that the bi-swing back was always open. Members of the forum commented that this because was because of the way the back was constructed - apparently the way to tell is where the seams between the back and front of the jackets are. If the seams are directly underneath the arms, this implies that the bi-swing back will stay open even when the arms are not extended. If the seams are behind the arms, this implies that the bi-swing back will only open when needed.

Hope I've explained that decently! Just from my memory of the thread.

I recall that Shawn's ANJ-3 jacket looks like it has the under arm seams in a different place compared to his G1s. I think somebody sent him an ANJ3 to copy.

Yep that makes sense. Luckily the Mrs is switched on when it comes to stitching and making the odd adjustment if it bothers me that much.

 

[Riggs5893]

That 'wide shoulders and narrow waist' is a common feature of this particular 55J14 contract, the original that these patterns were based on. It works really well with trim blokes.
I was lucky with mine, that the lengths are ok.

AVI LTHR 55J14 G-1 Jacket knit & zipper 'upgrade' pics

I like my AVI LTHR 55J14 G-1 so much, I decided to invest in some upgrades. There is currently an 'upgraded' version available, but I am very happy with the jacket I already have. So, to bring it up to the 'best it can be'... I replaced the zipper with a 'higher grade' repro silver Talon...

www.vintageleatherjackets.org

Yeah that's a good length. Looks to be a tad more than mine and that's what I was after.

 

[Brettafett]

Entirely up to you, but if you wanted take that jacket up a notch, get some authentic seal knit from MASH Japan and replace the knitwear and those buttons.
For the price, these are great knock-about jackets. Even after a couple of seasons mines still going strong.
Side note, the mouton on these, is fantastic. I was able to compare mine with a recent ELC M422a and I preferred this, more akin to originals (granted, this varies batch to batch, Ive seen variations with ELC's mouton over the years, some great, some ok).

 

[Garylafortuna]

In principle I am in complete agreement with Grant's statement that producing copies from copies is not kosher. That is if you are striving to produce historically accurate repros of particular contracts, be it Navy or AAF flight jackets. The reason I sent the BR William Gibson G-1 to Shawn was not because this jacket represented any particular original G-1 contract; to my knowledge even Buzz Rickson does not make that claim. The reason is that it is an extremely well made, well fitting jacket, and I wanted an AN-J-3 fashioned after it. This is the reason it is dubbed a Civi AN-J-3. Also, because BR has a little more experience with Navy flight jackets than FiveStar, I wanted to give Shawn and anybody else who may like this style of jacket the benefit of the quality this jacket represents. ( Case in point, seamless side panels ).
So please do not be too hard on Shawn and FiveStar. Collecting an arsenal of original jackets takes time, and Shawn is practically the new kid on the block. His contribution up to this point has been I believe, significant.

 

[mulceber]

I think we also need to remember that, when you buy an Eastman, a GW, or a BK, you aren’t just paying for the fancy leathers and the brand name (although you’re undoubtedly paying for both of those things), you’re also paying for the time and money the owner of the company had to spend collecting, borrowing, or traveling to originals in order to reach that level of accuracy. As Thomas astutely pointed out to me in another thread (and a slightly different context), if you want high end levels of accuracy, expect high end prices. Copying copies is a corner that it is fair for a budget maker to cut, as far as I’m concerned.

Of course, it’s also fair for Grant to decide he’s not interested in that and order from other makers.

 

[Brettafett]

These jackets fall into different categories, attend to different markets... mostly.
Apples & oranges. But both apples and oranges are great fruits lol depending on what you're after.
The fact that the likes of 5 Star and AVI are even compared to GW and ELC says a lot. Yes, not in the same league in terms of detail and period accurac,y and other important bits...
But for someone who is on a budget and is not too pedantic on detail or authenticity, and wants some customisation... these are brilliant options.
5 Star owns this 'market', Shawn's customer service and enthusiasm is quite infectious really and that's why guys have been encouraging him. Just look at his goat Doniger. that's a fun jacket!
I would love to see Shawn's Buzz G-1 repro, and am still waiting to hear news of his B-10.

 

[bn1966]

Certainly worked for me, rather partial to an orange these days. I can't justify big $$$ on jackets anymore (spend it on silly cars & bikes instead). Shawn's goatskin married to rust mouton, NOS Conmar zipper, MASH buttons and USA Rib-N-Rack wool knit = Happy bn1966:

 

[Riggs5893]

Entirely up to you, but if you wanted take that jacket up a notch, get some authentic seal knit from MASH Japan and replace the knitwear and those buttons.
For the price, these are great knock-about jackets. Even after a couple of seasons mines still going strong.
Side note, the mouton on these, is fantastic. I was able to compare mine with a recent ELC M422a and I preferred this, more akin to originals (granted, this varies batch to batch, Ive seen variations with ELC's mouton over the years, some great, some ok).

That's exactly what I was after. A jacket that looked good and was well constructed for everyday wear. I didn't want to be too precious over my original G1's.
The collar Shawn originally sent a photo of was long straight hair as opposed to this short original style. To his credit he changed it over for me and it really does look like my originals.

 

[B-Man2]

Back in the 50s when I was a kid growing up in the US, there were Howard Johnson Restaurants throughout the country. They had big orange roofs that were angled down with white and baby blue walls . A real color collage that stood out wherever they were built. Every kid and most adults took the opportunity to stop there whenever possible . What made that place such a treat ??
It offered 28 different flavors of ice cream , which was a great way to draw in the people as most places only offered vanilla , chocolate and strawberry . The idea worked well because it opened the market and catered to people who wanted more than the VCS served by all the other places . ( ok I know I’m pulling this one out of my ass , but Im almost done so hang in there with me)). My point is this, 5 Star caters to what people want . He makes custom jackets that appeal to certain people who want something different . The high end makers cater to people who want historical accuracy or as close as it’s possible to reproduce. For example you can’t get a 46 long from ELC ... because they won’t make one . It’s not a historically accurate size. Not a problem with 5 Star. You want an A2 with buttons ? Might be difficult to find but 5 star would make it for you. Your a bit out of shape and want a size 44 with 18 inch shoulders and 38 inch pit to pit measurements ... you get the idea ...... 5 Star fills a void in the repro industry ... they offer 28 flavors., as well as great customer service. Now .. don’t get me wrong, they are constantly striving to make more accurate repros for those who want that as well...but it’s not always about the cost, although that’s a factor as well in this hard pressed Pandemic economy. Just for clarification I don’t own a 5 Star so I don’t have any agendas , just an opinion.
Cheers