FiveStar Leather Looking for Recommendations on M-445A Jacket

[ties70]

I think the collar is closer, but still not quite there. I'm not sure if it's now a bit too wide, or if the collar tips are too angular (Jorge's jacket seems to have rather rounded collar tips), but this is definitely a step in the right direction. I'll look forward to hearing what other people think.

That said, I think the collar as it is now would be great for an AN-J-4.

Regarding the label, I'd look at the pics from the original Jorge posted here: https://www.vintageleatherjackets.o...rp-n-y-spec-m-445a-heavy-winter-jacket.25003/ He has got a good, clear picture of what the label looks like.

Jan,

I think the enlarged collar is not too wide, but the shape is off. I tried to figure out why, but being no expert in these types of jackets, I have reached my limits pretty soon...

What I noticed is that original collar seem to be more rounded, and none of them "rides up" in the back of the neck (here compared to Shaw's "old" collar shape):

They seem to lie down rather flat:

This original collar shows a downward curve on the upper and lower line, while Shawn's jacket is the exact opposite. Maybe this is the same, when the jacket is worn...as I said, I do not really know what the problem is.

Ties

 

[ties70]

Shouldn't the windflap be a more rounded at the top?

Regards,

Brent,

I think it depends on the contract you want to reproduce....I think the angled windflap is correct for some / at least one contract... I am pretty sure that I have seen Shawn's version on an original jacket at Google...

Ties

PS: If it is Jorge's HLB jacket that FS wants to make than the windflap should be rounded....

 

[mulceber]

I think you’ve hit the nail on the head, Ties. I’m not sure why that is either.

 

[Brent]

Wow, I'm not knocking this at all. It's a beautiful jacket and I'm in the middle of trying to place an order for one now. I have always been in Shawn's corner and apologize if this has been misconstrued. I really appreciate all the discussion and details that have been posted about the M-445A.

Regards,

 

[mulceber]

Wow, I'm not knocking this at all. It's a beautiful jacket and I'm in the middle of trying to place an order for one now. I have always been in Shawn's corner and apologize if this has been misconstrued. I really appreciate all the discussion and details that have been posted about the M-445A.

Regards,

Oh, sorry if I was unclear - I wasn't suggesting that you were knocking it. I'm just saying that in this process of of improving the product, it can be easy for all of us to focus on what's lacking, and I wanted to give praise for everything that's already great about this jacket. You weren't being negative.

 

[flyincowboy]

Is it me or my computer but the pockets and panels look black?Guess they are just darker.

 

[Brent]

Still trying to learn here and enjoy the process. Carry on.

Regards,

 

[mulceber]

Going off of Ties point, about how the collar stands up too much in the back, I'm not sure if this is the cause, but as I compare this photo of the back of Shawn's jacket to photos from Jorge's jacket, it looks to me like upper edge of the back panel of the reproduction is either completely straight, or even arcs upward a little bit, whereas on the original, the upper edge of the back panel is the opposite, if that makes sense. I've marked up the photos in the hope that pictures will speak better than words:

 

[Brent]

Just asking here, would the collar sit down after the jacket is worn and shaped a bit? Jorge's jacket has been flat for how many years now?

Regards,

 

[Kermit3D]

This thread is really fascinating ! I like FiveStar Leather's approach to sharing their work. It's very informative.
If you're doing an AN-J-4 variant, I might be interested... the quality for money seems excellent.

 

[Brent]

US Navy M-445A. A bit different than an ANJ-4, M-4444 and it has the two button short zipper. . At least that is what I think at this time? But ask Shawn, he is very accommodating.

Regards,

 

[ties70]

Just asking here, would the collar sit down after the jacket is worn and shaped a bit? Jorge's jacket has been flat for how many years now?

Regards,

Brent ,

if Jan's observation re. the attachment of the collar is correct - and I think it is very likely, at least from the photos above - then there is probably no way that wear and time will change that: It's more likely a question of changing the pattern for the back panel and / or the parts, where the collar is sewn into the torso.

Good thing is, that it gives Shawn something to try out and work with!

As for the colour combination and dimensions of this particular jacket:
It's made after ONE customers measurements...imagine this: Somebody comes along, says "Well, I would like to have...Could you do it?" and @Shawn Ali starts from scratch and comes up with these results as a first prototype...I think it is pretty impressive!

Take care,

Ties

 

[mulceber]

US Navy M-445A. A bit different than an ANJ-4, M-4444 and it has the two button short zipper. . At least that is what I think at this time? But ask Shawn, he is very accommodating.

Regards,

I think Kermit just read through the thread - a couple pages ago I was making the point that the M-445A and the AN-J-4 are nearly identical, and indeed, I think Shawn’s plan is to make the AN-J-4 next, using this jacket as a starting point.

Good thing is, that it gives Shawn something to try out and work with!

Hopefully it won’t be too hard: unstitch the previous collar and remove it, re-sculpt the upper edge of the back panel, then re-attach the collar.

 

[Brent]

Well order has been placed. It's been a while sense I've done this. Must admit it's exciting. The anticipation is already setting in.

Regards,

 

[mulceber]

I think it’s going to be great, Brent. We’re just suggesting some last-minute adjustments.

 

[Brent]

And I appreciate it more than you know. This really is the best part of a new jacket.
Thanks guys.

Regards,

 

[John Lever]

Please also find some more images below

View attachment 45317
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Some fit images below
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This is the same design as the short zip Anj4.

 

[John Lever]

Looking for the suggestions from Mr. @John Lever as well

Shawn

The m445a is the same design as the short zip Anj4 except it is trimmed with goat skin not horsehide.
Neck strap button closure, silk lined pockets with button closure, silk lined underarm gussets, waist straps with slider type buckles. Talon or Conmar zip. Sheepskin cuffs with Knitted insert.

 

[John Lever]

Hi Dear Friends

That was really a great contribution from the friends in just few days it became possible to make this jacket, some points already updated after having some suggestions directly at my PM from some friends I really appreciated their help.

Please find some detailed photos of the M455A Jacket which we try our best to make according to the original design, any suggestions to improve and Design its Label are highly requested

First Prototype images below
View attachment 45298

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Suggestions Please

Best Regards

Shawn

That looks pretty good, but the collar looks rather small.

 

[Brent]

Thanks John. I'm just am not finding a lot of information on the web about the M-445A. Let a lone any similar jackets. Where can I learn more? Gary Eastman's book? Pestering you? Kidding

Regards,