FiveStar Leather Looking for Recommendations on M-445A Jacket

[mulceber]

Both, I think. And “outside” of the knits, the HLB M-445A had shearling cuffs, whereas some AN-J-4s had shearling, some leather.

 

[Brent]

Okay, so I didn't.see them on Jorge's jacket. So should these be included? Are they on the HLB contract? Thinking it might be nice to have. Maybe just use to knit cuffs from the G-1 and A-2. Just trying to learn something here.

Regards,

 

[mulceber]

I just went and double checked. None of the HLB pics I’ve seen show the interior of the cuff, so I don’t know for sure that it had storm cuffs. HLB was apparently one of the later M-445A contracts, and all the other M-445As that I’ve seen pictures of have the knit cuffs, so I think the HLB one would as well, since I’d think that would be a feature they would want to keep. Maybe @Jorgeenriqueaguilera can tell us.

 

[Jorgeenriqueaguilera]

Sorry guys, I just saw this. It has knit cuffs sewn inside. The material looks the same as the one found in the M422’s cuffs.

Front

Upper

Lower

 

[mulceber]

You have no reason to apologize, Jorge. This is some very helpful confirmation!

 

[Jorgeenriqueaguilera]

Man, seeing the pics of the cuffs attached to the sleeve I was realizing how difficult is to make a jacket.... So many details and stitchings everywhere. You need the skills for sure.

 

[mulceber]

And they were churning them out by the thousand during the war. American factory production was a marvel.

 

[Brent]

Perfect, great confirmation pictures. Seems like they should be there, I was just curious. Thanks again.

Regards,

 

[John Lever]

Buy an original to get the details, don't copy any repros as the patterns are often a poor. The best place to find one is Yahoo Japan. Mint examples are expensive but there are affordable rough ones with damage.
I assume the version you like is the one with diamond arm patches trimmed in seal goat skin with no belt buttons ,sheepskin cuffs ? This has the full length zip right up to the throat as does the m444. This is very difficult to construct, I have never owned one that I could zip right up, the zip goes through a significant change in direction putting strain on the track so it jams.
The other version is identical to the Anj4 in all but very minor details.
These jackets seem to have all been made from electrified sheepskin, straight shiny fleece, no crimp or fuzz at all. This determines how it reflects and scatters light to give a deep colour and lustre. They are often almost golden brown. Fleece length from 18 to 20 mm.
I have had originals and repros from RMNZ and The Few. Buzz Ricksons make one, but I havent seen it.
None of the repros have a zip that iis uesable and are very bulky all round.
I very much doubt it is possible to make a buget version.

ヤフオク!

ヤフオク!は、誰でも簡単に売り買いが楽しめる、日本最大のネットオークションサイトです。圧倒的な商品数を誇るヤフオク!で、落札・出品してみませんか？補償制度もあります。

page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp

 

[busdrivermike]

Guys,

I hope that @Shawn Ali won't get mad at me for dropping a teaser from his workbench

View attachment 44972

So, Jan and Burt... I think we could be "slightly" more optimistic on the timeline....If one thing has been made sure by FS, it is that as soon as somebody here makes a suggestion of a new jacket, the guys at FS start prototyping right away!

Ties

Oh man that looks nice

 

[Griffon_301]

The last type of jacket I really really miss in my collection! If this becomes a reality, I will be amongst the customers in all possibility...

 

[Shawn Ali]

Nah, I feel the same way, Brent. I really hope Shawn can get some measurements on an HLB M-445A and churn out a first-rate repro. Sadly, I think our best-case scenario is several months. What do you say on this, @Shawn Ali ?

No need to wait for months, work is in progress rapidly.

Shawn

 

[Shawn Ali]

Hi Dear Friends

That was really a great contribution from the friends in just few days it became possible to make this jacket, some points already updated after having some suggestions directly at my PM from some friends I really appreciated their help.

Please find some detailed photos of the M455A Jacket which we try our best to make according to the original design, any suggestions to improve and Design its Label are highly requested

First Prototype images below

Suggestions Please

Best Regards

Shawn

 

[Shawn Ali]

Please also find some more images below

Some fit images below

 

[Shawn Ali]

Mr. Ties and Mr. Jan strongly suggested to improve the width of the Collar as according to the B3, As this Jackets first prototype was 11 cm wide, but after have the suggestions we totally changed its collar to 13cm width which is equal to B3 collar Width,
Please find some images after improving the collar below

Collar amendment

More images after collar amendment's

Any suggestions will be highly recommended

Best Regards

Shawn

 

[mulceber]

I think the collar is closer, but still not quite there. I'm not sure if it's now a bit too wide, or if the collar tips are too angular (Jorge's jacket seems to have rather rounded collar tips), but this is definitely a step in the right direction. I'll look forward to hearing what other people think.

That said, I think the collar as it is now would be great for an AN-J-4.

Regarding the label, I'd look at the pics from the original Jorge posted here: https://www.vintageleatherjackets.o...rp-n-y-spec-m-445a-heavy-winter-jacket.25003/ He has got a good, clear picture of what the label looks like.

 

[B-Man2]

I’Ll agree with Mulceber’s opinion as well. That m-445 collar is just a bit off, and I think it’s the collar tips as well . Covers just a bit too much of the shoulders.

 

[Brent]

Shouldn't the windflap be a more rounded at the top?

Regards,

 

[Brent]

Pocket size and placement good here?

Regards,

 

[mulceber]

Shouldn't the windflap be a more rounded at the top?

Regards,

Yep, but that’s an easy fix.

Pocket size and placement good here?

Regards,

Placement looks good to me, but they look a bit tall. I’d shorten the pockets by about a half inch.

Also, we’ve said this before, but it bears repeating: it feels bad to have Shawn post these beautifully constructed jackets and say “ok, nice, but x, y, and z are wrong.” This is a great looking jacket, Shawn, and it’s really impressive that you were able to come this close on the first attempt with both the B-3 and the M-445A.