Eastman 1401P vs 27752

[Brettafett]

Quality is good with all the top end makers (although I will continue to moan about ELC's knits...)
Zippers on all these jackets can sometimes have bad days

Collars, ELCs are slightly on the larger side. Depends on size on jacket maybe, (ie appears larger on a 40, than say a 46?). This may be because the originals in their collection do have larger collars, I cant say. But GWs collars are perfectly proportioned and sized (Bill Kelso's are also properly sized to my eye)
GW and BK also nail the pocket flaps correctly, not just on RWs. I really dont want this to come across as a ELC-bashing, we're really scrutinising details here.

I'd contact the 'horse' itself, but roughly...
The wait for an ELC is immediate if they have your size in stock, in a regular. If you need to exchange or have some length added, then you will wait... maybe 1 to 2 months?
GW, the current wait is around a year to a year and a half, with a $200 deposit.
BK, is around 6 months or longer.

 

[Micawber]

Where is the thread Burt initiated about keeping all this in perspective?

 

[Brettafett]

Really enjoyed that wise 'ol thread, and Im sure we all agree about what's important and what's not... really.

However, the guys going to drop upwards of £1000 on a jacket, and he asked for opinions... If not on this forum, where...
I wish someone was around back when I started throwing money at these things... Would have saved a lot of cash and precious time. Im happy to 'chime in'...

End of the day, its just a jacket, but an expensive one. So best try get it right.

 

[mulceber]

GW, the current wait is around a year to a year and a half,

Although that’s assuming John doesn’t offer you one he’s already made that would fit you. Ordinarily I’d say it’s unlikely that he’d have one, but John makes a LOT of Rough Wears, and it sounds like you’re a size he makes a lot. If you mention in your form that you’re flexible about which contract you get (it doesn’t sound like you’re 100% committed to either 1401-P or 27752) and say you’d be open to a test jacket, the wait could be shorter, maybe even a LOT shorter.

 

[B-Man2]

I’m late to the conversation so I hope its ok to jump in here. I know that JC is continuously tweaking his patterns to put out as accurate as possible repos of original A2 jackets. You can see it by comparing some of his earlier jackets with some of his recent offerings of that same contract. For example. a number of years ago I had the opportunity to purchase the VERY FIRST repro Rough Wear 1401P that John had ever made. I still have that jacket today. I’ll post some photos of it below. If you compare WZ1999s GW 1401p, which is a later model, you’ll see subtle changes that JC made to the contract over the years. The most obvious are the knits, but check out the two jackets for yourselves and see what stands out . Now if one of you has an older ELC 1401p, try matching it up against a newer model to see if the same is true. Are there changes to the patterns over the years? I’ve always liked comparisons like this because you can see pretty accurately which maker is making an effort to continuously upgrade their patterns .

 

[Brettafett]

Very true Burt. Here are some ELC RWs over the years.
Early ELC left, size 40 circa 2005. Next one on right size 40 is 2015

GW RW1401 size 40 (?) 2015, and far right ELC RW 2018 40L

 

[Brettafett]

Some details between th 2005 and 2015 ELC RW 1401
Notice olive drab thread on the earlier one.

 

[B-Man2]

Nice comparison photos Brett.
Of the three jackets which one do you still have or prefer over the other two ?

 

[ausreenactor]

I have always taken the dilemma on a jacket by jacket basis. 'CBI' now has a GW RW that I traded a BR for. I happily moved that on. I have had three ELC RW 27752s. Two were nowhere near as good as the other. Not timeline based. All hide and finish based.

Ordering a GW direct is a very wise proposition. Buying one second hand is tied to risk, given the bespoke nature. I have a GW Perry here that was obviously owned by a buyer with a longer front than a longer back (husky some might say). I have never had a bad fit on a ELC or BR...off the rack...Sleeves are always fine... Might be a 'wartime fit' or an 'athletic fit'. But they always fit.

 

[Kermit3D]

Thanks again for your help!!!
1)Yes I know Good Wear, but I leave in EU and Eastman is easier to buy and also I can change size if wrong
2) Do you have photos of your RW, so I can understand better about the wartime fit and the trim fit

Thanks again!!!

Just a clarification:
If you are going to Europe, be aware that you have to pay the customs fees by buying a jacket from Eastman (which is in the UK). For an Eastman A-2 jacket, that's 284 euros ($300).

 

[Pa12]

Just a clarification:
If you are going to Europe, be aware that you have to pay the customs fees by buying a jacket from Eastman (which is in the UK). For an Eastman A-2 jacket, that's 284 euros ($300).

Ouch.

 

[Chandler]

Just to play along for record keeping...
Mid to late 90s ELC 1401.

Early 2000s ELC 27752

 

[bgbgbg]

Just a clarification:
If you are going to Europe, be aware that you have to pay the customs fees by buying a jacket from Eastman (which is in the UK). For an Eastman A-2 jacket, that's 284 euros ($300).

Yes, I know, I live in Italy, UK is anyway easier than US

 

[mulceber]

You might look at Bill Kelso as well. They're located in the EU (although they charge in pounds), and are in the same general ballpark of quality as Eastman.

 

[bgbgbg]

What do you think of ELC RW collar? Do the original collars where smaller?

 

[Chandler]

What do you think of ELC RW collar? Do the original collars where smaller?

Personally, I think the collar on my 1401 lays, when worn, just like the Great Escape jacket McQueen wears in the flick.

However, mine is over 20 years old -- so ELC could have adjusted patterns over time.

 

[bgbgbg]

You might look at Bill Kelso as well. They're located in the EU (although they charge in pounds), and are in the same general ballpark of quality as Eastman.

Thanks! My first choice would be a GW, but if there is a lot to wait I will buy an ELC or BK. Wich is better for RW repro? BK or ELC? BK or GW? Thanks!

 

[mulceber]

BK will take a few months (6-8 months, last I checked), but the benefit is they tend shorter than Eastman, and have a smaller collar. Here’s a picture of a RW 23380 I used to have from them:

 

[Pa12]

The big collar of the roughwear did seem a little excessive on my elc. John has spent a lot of time on that detail.

 

[bgbgbg]

W

BK will take a few months (6-8 months, last I checked), but the benefit is they tend shorter than Eastman, and have a smaller collar. Here’s a picture of a RW 23380 I used to have from them:
View attachment 79098

Wow, very nice!!! How are the knit cuffs of BK? I think I Am 44-46 regular of Eastman RW (so 46). Do you think BK always 46? Thanks