Eastman 1401P vs 27752

[mulceber]

Or you got what you got till you traded.

Oh definitely. But when someone on the VLJ compliments you on having a jacket with a nice wartime fit, they mean it’s baggy on you. At least, that's how I've always seen the term used in reference to repros.

 

[Brettafett]

On zippers, its interesting to note that 'apparently' Jimmy Stewart's RW1401 has a replaced Talon zipper.
Dont recall where I got that from, but its locked in there.

 

[P-47 thunderbolt]

On zippers, its interesting to note that 'apparently' Jimmy Stewart's RW1401 has a replaced Talon zipper.
Dont recall where I got that from, but its locked in there.

Believe Mcqueen's a2 had a replacement zipper (if indeed a 16159)

 

[Pa12]

Hello to everyone!
I would like to buy my first Eastman. Unfortunately I can not try it, but I have to buy it online.
My personal favourites are the 1401P and 27752, I love them both... Wich do you suggest me as first A2 jacket? Wich one is most iconic?
Do they have the same fit?

Thank you!!!!!

Are you in a hurry? I only ask because I think the cost now is pretty close to good wear. I had an Eastman roughwear. Nice jacket but the colour came out very fast. Also, I’m a modern 44 and had to get 46 on an Eastman so I would definitely go up one size.

 

[mulceber]

Are you in a hurry? I only ask because I think the cost now is pretty close to good wear. I had an Eastman roughwear. Nice jacket but the colour came out very fast. Also, I’m a modern 44 and had to get 46 on an Eastman so I would definitely go up one size.

Yeah, that would be my recommendation as well. Didn't bring it up because the bg3 seemed like his mind was made up, but if you're looking for opinions on who makes the best Rough Wear A-2, it's John Chapman, hands down.

 

[bgbgbg]

Thanks again for your help!!!
1)Yes I know Good Wear, but I leave in EU and Eastman is easier to buy and also I can change size if wrong
2) Do you have photos of your RW, so I can understand better about the wartime fit and the trim fit

Thanks again!!!

 

[ausreenactor]

Still have a RW 27752 but I would prefer a 1401-P. Russet is my preference...

 

[bgbgbg]

Just another thing: Good Wear is really so better compared to Eastman in RW?

 

[Pa12]

Thanks again for your help!!!
1)Yes I know Good Wear, but I leave in EU and Eastman is easier to buy and also I can change size if wrong
2) Do you have photos of your RW, so I can understand better about the wartime fit and the trim fit

Thanks again!!!

I don’t but I’m sure lots of guys here do. I could be wrong, but I think the roughwear is a tad baggier then some of the other contracts. That being said, I’m 5’11”, 188 lbs, 43 inch chest and an Eastman 44 looks like it’s stretched to the max if I do it up. 46 was comfortable.

 

[Pa12]

Can’t fault Eastman myself, except for the colour loss in my last one. But it’s pretty common knowledge now that gw is the top of the line. So with a small difference in the price, just thought why not.

 

[mulceber]

Just another thing: Good Wear is really so better compared to Eastman in RW?

That's a topic on which there are a LOT of opinions, and it's all the more contentious because both Eastman and GW pride themselves on a lot of the same contracts: Rough Wear and Monarch especially, but also Werber. A couple points I would make:

Most A-2 repro makers are continually improving their offerings, usually by getting their hands on more originals to improve their patterns and trying to source better materials. Bill Kelso continues to upgrade their patterns and Good Wear is CONSTANTLY doing it. IIRC John's obtained 2 new Rough Wear A-2s in the last year that have given him new ideas about what you can do with the Rough Wear pattern. It's not so much that his previous patterns were "wrong." He's just acquired new ones that are different and so he's added them to his repertoire.

With Eastman though, it's hard to say (they're less transparent about these things, because you can't really just call up Gary and have a phone chat), but I don't get the sense that their patterns have changed very much in the last decade. It's hard to say for sure, but it seems like most of their efforts have been in the direction of adding new things to the catalog, rather than improving the patterns of things already in the catalog.

And if they haven't been improving their patterns, I don't think it's because they "got it right the first time." There was so much war-time variation that more jackets to draw patterns from is ALWAYS a good thing. Instead, I think their patterns have (probably) remained static because they think further efforts toward improving their patterns wouldn't be worth the time and effort. John's improving those patterns because he has a passion for the nitty-gritty details (and it ends up being profitable because his customer base does too). Eastman, meanwhile, is doing their best to be the Gucci of mid-century Americana, so ongoing research and self-improvement aren't really in their interest.

On the other hand, I really think you should get the jacket you want the first time. If you don't, you'll end up going back for it later. And you aren't wrong that being in the EU makes exchanges more convenient with Eastman. That said, you might consider Good Wear for the future. Most of us come into this hobby thinking "I'll just get one A-2, and I'll be done." Next thing we know, we have a closet full of them. You can always get this ELC RW and keep John in mind for one of the other A-2 manufacturers sometime later.

 

[Wz1999]

Just another thing: Good Wear is really so better compared to Eastman in RW?

Left GW 1401P
Right ELC 23380

RW collar

ELC collar

GW pocket

ELC pocket

 

[mulceber]

Yup, VERY similar. I love the way the collar on that GW lays. Perfect drape. A little bit of difference in the pocket flaps, and it looks like the little washers used to reinforce the collar hooks are a bit wider in diameter on the GW, but they look very similar right next to each other (helps that they're both Italian HH).

How do the fits compare, WZ?

 

[Pa12]

Yes. Side by side you can see it. Gw for me. Something tells me you have a shit load of jackets.

 

[Wz1999]

Yup, VERY similar. I love the way the collar on that GW lays. Perfect drape. A little bit of difference in the pocket flaps, and it looks like the little washers used to reinforce the collar hooks are a bit wider in diameter on the GW, but they look very similar right next to each other (helps that they're both Italian HH).

How do the fits compare, WZ?

They are both tagged size 44, but ELC fits slightly trimmer.

 

[mulceber]

Yes. Side by side you can see it. Gw for me. Something tells me you have a shit load of jackets.

Yeah, the more I look at them, the further ahead GW gets. The Eastman just has a big collar. The GW has a Rough Wear collar.

 

[blackrat2]

The RW 27752 is billed as being seal coloured but for sure was also made in russet and from johns site , has also been found with Crown zippers, how many were made with a Crown is anyones guess

 

[mulceber]

The RW 27752 is billed as being seal coloured but for sure was also made in russet and from johns site , has also been found with Crown zippers, how many were made with a Crown is anyones guess

Yeah, we often like to throw around these very concrete statements, like “this wartime contract was made with THIS zipper type.” But really, you could probably find any zipper that had been made in the last year of so on those wartime contracts. The AAF had to make something like a million jackets (including all types) in a year. And to supply the manufacturers of those jackets, they were buying every zipper they could get their hands on. It wasn’t uncommon for a maker to end up with a disproportionate amount of one zipper type, but really, I wouldn’t be all that surprised to see any contract issued in ‘42 and ‘43 made with any zipper type that was then current.

 

[Brettafett]

Agree with points above.

Personally, after umpteen ELCs and a handful of GW RWs, humbly agree, GW wins on details.
Not that ELCs jackets are 'not good', its just that GW cant be beat.
Ive owned ELC and GW RW1401s and 27752s, and been able to compare one of my ELC 1401s with my GW 1401.

ELC has updated thier patterns a couple of times over the years, but John just nails it. John collars are the best.
Also, ELC's knits are not the best!

If you are in the EU, why not look at BK? If you can deal with lack of communication and waiting, they make a top Roughwear also.
I have a 23380 and its my one of my favourite keepers. @Greg Gale has a 27752.

BK stand side-by-side with the above, one of the top 3s perhaps...
Either maker above will land you a great RW, they all have originals they are basing their jackets on, and as such there will be slight variations.
You could request samples also, so you can compare leather.

 

[bgbgbg]

Thanks to everyone, you are all very kind!
Reganding GW, should I wait a long time to get the jacket? And regarding knit and collar of ELC 1401P compared to GW, are they very different? You mean the GW ones are more near to the original or you mean the quality of GW is better than ELC? Thanks again!