Discussion: “A Better Fighting Garment…” - A Beginner’s Guide to the US Navy’s WWII-era and later Intermediate Flight Jackets

[entertainment]

The colors of the Breier look pretty accurate on my monitor including the turquoise lining. The pigment finish is quite opaque.
Note the "Amend. #3" text on the label.

 

[mulceber]

SUPERSEDED BY 2.0
Part 3 - The Vietnam War - The 60s and 70s

8. MIL-J-7823A (AER) [1961]
A noticeable difference from the 7823 to the 7823A is the change from a no.5 blackened Conmar main zipper to a no.10 blackened Talon ‘rectangle’ zipper. From the 7823A onwards, all G-1s would continue to use a no.10 zipper for enhanced durability (later specifications would have either a ‘paperclip’ style Scovill or Conmar No.10). Additionally, following from the trend set by late 50s 7823s, all G-1 jackets from the 7823A onwards will bear rounded pocket flaps (a simplification of the previously (but more ornate) scalloped or triangular pocket flaps). As Roger Moore notes, “in 1961, the A… series jacket was introduced and only two manufacturers had contracts: Ralph Edwards Sportswear [previously Cagleco] and Irvin B. Foster.” Moore, as do many collectors, therefore considers the A series to be one of the scarcest of the 7823 series jackets.

SPECIFICATION MIL-J-7823A (AER)	Contract dates	Comments
RALPH EDWARDS SPORTSWEAR, INC. CONTRACT NO. QM(CTM)8833C-61	1961	Manufacturer formerly known as Cagleco Sportswear.
IRVIN B.FOSTER & SONS SPORTSWEAR CO., INC. CONTRACT NO. DA 36-243-QM(CTM)8834-C-61	1961	See notes for MIL-J-7823 (AER) and L.W. Foster Sportswear Co lawsuit

RALPH EDWARDS SPORTSWEAR, INC. CONTRACT NO. QM(CTM)8833C-61, courtesy of @Jorgeenriqueaguilera

 

[mulceber]

RALPH EDWARDS SPORTSWEAR, INC. CONTRACT NO. QM(CTM)8833C-61, courtesy of @Jorgeenriqueaguilera

 

[mulceber]

IRVIN B.FOSTER & SONS SPORTSWEAR CO., INC. CONTRACT NO. DA 36-243-QM(CTM)8834-C-61, courtesy of @Jorgeenriqueaguilera

 

[mulceber]

SUPERSEDED BY 2.0
9. MIL-J-7823B (WEP) [1961 - 1963]
From the 7823B onwards, all G-1 flight jackets have a no.10 ‘paperclip’ style zip (blackened for the 7823B and brass for the C onwards). This replaced the rectangular Talon zipper of 7823A. The 7823B is otherwise almost identical to its predecessor.

SPECIFICATION MIL-J-7823B (WEP)	Contract Dates	Comments
RALPH EDWARDS SPORTSWEAR, INC. CONTRACT NO. QM(CTM) 10276-C-61	1961
RALPH EDWARDS SPORTSWEAR, INC. CONTRACT NO. QM(CTM) 11214-C-62	unknown, likely '61 or '62	jacket unattested in lists of Navy contracts we had access to; original found by Jorge
IRVIN B. FOSTER SPORTSWEAR CO. CONTRACT NO. DSA-1-435-C-62	1962
RALPH EDWARDS SPORTSWEAR, INC. CONTRACT NO.DSA-1-1040-63-C	1963
IRVIN B. FOSTER SPTSWEAR CO. CONTRACT NO. DSA-1-2071-63-C	1963

RALPH EDWARDS SPORTSWEAR, INC. CONTRACT NO. QM(CTM) 10276-C-61, courtesy of @Jorgeenriqueaguilera

 

[mulceber]

(first) RALPH EDWARDS SPORTSWEAR, INC. CONTRACT NO. QM(CTM) 11214-C-62, courtesy of @Jorgeenriqueaguilera

 

[mulceber]

(second) RALPH EDWARDS SPORTSWEAR, INC. CONTRACT NO. QM(CTM) 11214-C-62, (also) courtesy of @Jorgeenriqueaguilera

 

[mulceber]

IRVIN B. FOSTER SPORTSWEAR CO. CONTRACT NO. DSA-1-435-C-62, courtesy of @Jorgeenriqueaguilera

 

[mulceber]

RALPH EDWARDS SPORTSWEAR, INC. CONTRACT NO.DSA-1-1040-63-C, courtesy of @Jorgeenriqueaguilera

 

[mulceber]

IRVIN B. FOSTER SPTSWEAR CO. CONTRACT NO. DSA-1-2071-63-C, courtesy of @Jorgeenriqueaguilera

 

[Lord Flashheart]

SUPERSEDED BY 2.0
10. MIL-J-7823C (WEP) [1964 - 1966]

It's time to turn our attention to the 7823C specification that was introduced in 1964 and lasted till 1966. As Moore notes, “[t]hese are often considered by collectors to be the last of the ‘good’ jackets as they are the last [specification] to universally have the mouton collar…”, goatskin, and single-ply rib-racked knits. The easiest way to identify between a 7823B and a 7823C specification is the zipper. The 7823B has a blackened ‘paperclip’ no.10 zipper whereas from the 7823C specification onwards the ‘paperclip’ no.10 zippers were left in naked brass.

SPECIFICATION MIL-J-7823C (WEP)	Contract dates	Comments
IRVIN B. FOSTER SPORTSWEAR CO. CONTRACT NO. DSA-1-8826
IRVIN B. FOSTER SPORTSWEAR CO. CONTRACT NO. DSA-1-8825
IRVIN B. FOSTER SPORTSWEAR CO. CONTRACT NO. DSA-10003081
IRVIN B. FOSTER SPORTSWEAR CO. CONTRACT NO. DSA-100-598
RALPH EDWARDS SPORTSWEAR, INC. CONTRACT NO. DSA-1-4342-64-C
RALPH EDWARDS SPORTSWEAR, INC. CONTRACT NO. DSA-1-9365
W/E STAR SPORTSWEAR MFG. CORP. CONTRACT NO. DSA-1-3271-64-C
STAR SPORTSWEAR MFG. CORP. CONTRACT NO. DSA 100-599
BRILL BROS., INC. DSA 100-71-C-0141

 

[Lord Flashheart]

RALPH EDWARDS SPORTSWEAR, INC. CONTRACT NO. DSA-1-4342-64-C courtesy of @Jorgeenriqueaguilera

 

[Lord Flashheart]

IRVIN B. FOSTER SPORTSWEAR CO. CONTRACT NO. DSA-100-598 courtesy of @Jorgeenriqueaguilera

 

[Lord Flashheart]

IRVIN B. FOSTER SPORTSWEAR CO. CONTRACT NO. DSA-1-8826 courtesy of @Jorgeenriqueaguilera

 

[mulceber]

SUPERSEDED BY 2.0
11. MIL-J-7823D (WP) [1967 - 1970]
The 7823D (WP) is a controversial specification. Starting in 1967, it was produced until 1970. For 1967 - mid 1969, the 7823D (WP) specification was made from USN chrome-tanned seal brown goatskin with real mouton fur collars. However, sometime in mid 1969, the 7823D specification was amended to allow for faux mouton collars (80% Dynel, 20% cotton) and cowhide to be used instead. However, all 7823Ds retained double-ply no rib rack 100% wool knits. The possible combinations for 7823D G-1s are thus as follows: goatskin with real mouton, goatskin with Dynel collar, or cowhide with Dynel. Surprisingly, however, no cowhide and real mouton versions have been documented.

SPECIFICATION MIL-J-7823D (WP)	Contract dates	Comments
SPEC.MIL-J-7823D (WEP) RALPH EDWARDS SPRTSWEAR, INC. CONTRACT NO. DSA-1-5366	1966
SPEC.MIL-J-7823D (WEP) GREGORY SPORTSWEAR, INC. CONTRACT NO. DSA-100-67-C-3928	1967	see this thread
MIL-J-7823D (WP) THE MARTIN LANE CO., INC. DSA 100-68-C-0099	1968
MIL-J-7823D (WP) STAR SPORTSWEAR MFG. CORP. DSA 100-68-C-0759	1968
MIL-J-7823D (WP) BRILL BROS., INC. DSA 100-68-C-1805	1968	see this thread
MIL-J-7823D (WP) THE MARTIN LANE CO., INC. DSA 100-69-C-1545	1969
MIL-J-7823D(WP) BRILL BROS., INC. DSA 100-70-C-0484	1970
MIL-J-7823D(WP) STAR SPORTSWEAR MFG. CORP. DSA100-70-C-0483	1970
MIL-J-7823D(WP) STAR SPORTSWEAR MFG. CORP. DSA 100-70-C-0475	1970

MIL-J-7823D(WP) STAR SPORTSWEAR MFG.CO. DSA100-71-C-0535

1971

SPEC.MIL-J-7823D (WEP) GREGORY SPORTSWEAR, INC. CONTRACT NO. DSA-100-67-C-3928, courtesy of @Jorgeenriqueaguilera and courtesy of @mulceber (for purposes of collar fade comparison)

 

[mulceber]

MIL-J-7823D (WP) BRILL BROS., INC. DSA 100-68-C-1805, courtesy of @Jorgeenriqueaguilera

 

[mulceber]

MIL-J-7823D (WP) THE MARTIN LANE CO., INC. DSA 100-69-C-1545, courtesy of @Lord Flashheart

 

[mulceber]

MIL-J-7823D(WP) BRILL BROS., INC. DSA 100-70-C-0484, courtesy of @Jorgeenriqueaguilera

 

[mulceber]

MIL-J-7823D(WP) STAR SPORTSWEAR MFG. CORP. DSA100-70-C-0483, courtesy of @Jorgeenriqueaguilera

 

[Mr. Mike]

Thanks so much for your extensive research gentlemen! This is really the one-stop-shop thread now if it comes to any Navy Jacket considerations