A2 Lining type

[TrainDriver]

My FiveStar A2 came with the regular cotton lining. I saw that they offered other fabrics including rayon I believe.

I ordered my jacket a few sizes larger (measured 44, ordered 48) because i knew if it was tight and uncomfortable, I just wouldn’t wear it.

Although it (in theory) should be plenty roomy (baggy and ill-fitting many may call it), it is still tight across my back. I can’t help but think that part of what I’m feeling across my back is the cotton lining of my jacket “grabbing” my cotton shirts and the two garments not slipping against one another, and is further restricting my movement. It’s gonna be even worse when I start wearing shirts with sleeves.

Has anyone had this issue or have a jacket with a different “slick” lining like polyester, rayon or silk and can give me some opinions?

 

[entertainment]

I have often found it was tricky to get my arm down the sleeve with a cotton lining (especially when wearing a sweater), but never felt a jacket with a cotton lining was tight across the back. (And I have lots.) Once the jacket is on, I don't think the lining material should make a difference unless it is considerably smaller than the leather shell.

 

[B-Man2]

My FiveStar A2 came with the regular cotton lining. I saw that they offered other fabrics including rayon I believe.

I ordered my jacket a few sizes larger (measured 44, ordered 48) because i knew if it was tight and uncomfortable, I just wouldn’t wear it.

Although it (in theory) should be plenty roomy (baggy and ill-fitting many may call it), it is still tight across my back. I can’t help but think that part of what I’m feeling across my back is the cotton lining of my jacket “grabbing” my cotton shirts and the two garments not slipping against one another, and is further restricting my movement. It’s gonna be even worse when I start wearing shirts with sleeves.

Has anyone had this issue or have a jacket with a different “slick” lining like polyester, rayon or silk and can give me some opinions?

Don’t have that problem with any of my 5 Star jackets. I’m surprised that with the larger size your ordered that you’re having that type of problem.

 

[LV426]

My FiveStar A2 came with the regular cotton lining. I saw that they offered other fabrics including rayon I believe.

I ordered my jacket a few sizes larger (measured 44, ordered 48) because i knew if it was tight and uncomfortable, I just wouldn’t wear it.

Although it (in theory) should be plenty roomy (baggy and ill-fitting many may call it), it is still tight across my back. I can’t help but think that part of what I’m feeling across my back is the cotton lining of my jacket “grabbing” my cotton shirts and the two garments not slipping against one another, and is further restricting my movement. It’s gonna be even worse when I start wearing shirts with sleeves.

Has anyone had this issue or have a jacket with a different “slick” lining like polyester, rayon or silk and can give me some opinions?

Hello , like you I usualy wear 44R with my other leather jackets . My 1st one was a 5* Dubow 27798 in 48 and the 4 others ELC in 44 . Shawn advised me to choose a 48 to get some xtra space to feel comfy , that's exactely the case . Did you send the good mesurements to 5* ? Just a question . I've never heard about this type of misscomfort with jackets .

 

[Micawber]

Laid flat does the lining itself appear tight across the shoulders when laid flat, do the seams of both line up?

 

[TrainDriver]

I don’t know what these pics prove or disprove, but there seems to me to have ample lining fabric, and to my eyes everything seems to line up as it should.

 

[B-Man2]

I don’t know what these pics prove or disprove, but there seems to me to have ample lining fabric, and to my eyes everything seems to line up as it should.

Is that a standard size 48 or did you have it tweaked a bit ? (Customized )

 

[Shanghai-Mayne]

The rough side of its hide/leather, should keep the lining fabric stay in its proper position.

 

[Micawber]

Of course if you are not used to cotton linings it does feel different to synthetics or silk. A-2’s are not very forgiving of movement in the upper torso but will eventually mould to your body shape in various positions.

 

[coolhandluke]

I would normally say to find a contract that has a wider back panel and shoulders, but your RW should meet that criteria. A contract with inset sleeves will help as well.

Based on your photos, the shoulder width looks disproportionately narrow, which is likely the root of the issue. I believe the rear shoulder measurement should be at least 20" in that size/ contract, so 5*'s pattern might not be entirely accurate for a size 48 23380. Changing the liner material isn't going to make any appreciable difference. You might go one size up and have the sleeves, waist, and chest measurements tweeked a bit (or stick with a 48 and have the shoulder width and pack panel measurements increased). Wearing a tag size that is 6" larger than your chest measurement isn't completely uncommon.

Do you have any pics of you wearing the jacket that show how it fits?

Here's photos of a GW 23380 showing proper fit. Plenty of room in the back and the shoulder seams fall down below the edge of the shoulder.

 

[TrainDriver]

Is that a standard size 48 or did you have it tweaked a bit ? (Customized )

I think I ordered a little longer in sleeves and body length. Can you order different width in the back? I know nothing about stitching and such, so I figured getting that extra size in the chest size would give extra size in the back as well, proportionally.

 

[TrainDriver]

The rough side of its hide/leather, should keep the lining fabric stay in its proper position.

The lining stays in place, unless I’m intentionally trying to move it like the pics above. But the two fabrics - the lining and my shirt - sort of cling together. It seems to me that that would further restrict movement beyond any sizing issue there might be.

 

[TrainDriver]

I would normally say to find a contract that has a wider back panel and shoulders, but your RW should meet that criteria. A contract with inset sleeves will help as well.

Based on your photos, the shoulder width looks disproportionately narrow, which is likely the root of the issue. I believe the rear shoulder measurement should be at least 20" in that size/ contract, so 5*'s pattern might not be entirely accurate for a size 48 23380. Changing the liner material isn't going to make any appreciable difference. You might go one size up and have the sleeves, waist, and chest measurements tweeked a bit (or stick with a 48 and have the shoulder width and pack panel measurements increased). Wearing a tag size that is 6" larger than your chest measurement isn't completely uncommon.

Do you have any pics of you wearing the jacket that show how it fits?

Here's photos of a GW 23380 showing proper fit. Plenty of room in the back and the shoulder seams fall down below the edge of the shoulder.

View attachment 166673

View attachment 166675

View attachment 166677

What’s an inset sleeve?

 

[B-Man2]

I think I ordered a little longer in sleeves and body length. Can you order different width in the back? I know nothing about stitching and such, so I figured getting that extra size in the chest size would give extra size in the back as well, proportionally.

If you order a custom size jacket you can tell them the measurements you want, front , back , arm length etc, however if you make a mistake then that’s on you . They don’t take the jacket back .

 

[coolhandluke]

What’s an inset sleeve?

I'll quote Diamond Dave since his explanation will be better than mine. IMO, inset sleeves seem to help prevent sleeves from riding up and tightness in the back panel and shoulders where the sleeve attaches.

"Inset sleeve is made, when a "vest" is made, and then the sleeve is "inset" into said vest. This is more difficult in some ways (ie Top stitching around the arm-hole), and simpler in others. It also requires that the seamer, "works in a hole" when attaching the sleeve.

Conversely, a simple sleeve is attached with the body of the jacket only sewn together at the shoulder (side seam stil open), as well as the sleeve open on the underside, or "thumb seam". Then sleeve is attached "flat" as it were.... this allows for much simpler top-stitching of the sleeve hole prior to closing the jacket. The inset sleeve is normally a much more comfortable sleeve, as the "rolled" sleeve that you mentioned in your posting actually mimics the body shape of most people. This latter does cause some of its own challenges as well. This includes a large "bunching" at the side seam, due to the fact that the layers of ALL of the pieces meet in this area and can be difficult, at best."

 

[TrainDriver]

If you order a custom size jacket you can tell them the measurements you want, front , back , arm length etc, however if you make a mistake then that’s on you . They don’t take the jacket back .

I’m not looking to return it. I think I gave the back measurements for a Cock Pit “modern A2”. Hopefully it’ll “mold” or “stretch” or whatever it does once worn a while. This is my 1st whole season with it. The jacket season short in the middle of GA. I’m trying to wear it at work on the train since I work more than, well, don’t work. But right now, it’s just not a good traveling jacket.

 

[Shanghai-Mayne]

The lining stays in place, unless I’m intentionally trying to move it like the pics above. But the two fabrics - the lining and my shirt - sort of cling together. It seems to me that that would further restrict movement beyond any sizing issue there might be.

perhaps, change your shirt?

 

[TrainDriver]

perhaps, change your shirt?

Every single one?

 

[Alliance507]

I would normally say to find a contract that has a wider back panel and shoulders, but your RW should meet that criteria. A contract with inset sleeves will help as well.

Maybe this belongs in another thread, but do you know what contracts have the widest back panels? I know Dubows are known for having the smallest, but haven't come across the opposite (until you mentioned RW there).
And while we're listing contracts, which ones have inset sleeves?

 

[coolhandluke]

Maybe this belongs in another thread, but do you know what contracts have the widest back panels? I know Dubows are known for having the smallest, but haven't come across the opposite (until you mentioned RW there).
And while we're listing contracts, which ones have inset sleeves?

Others will likely have better knowledge than I, but Rough Wear and Aero are the first that come to mind. Poughkeepsie is probably one too. Cables are pretty roomy as well.

As far as inset sleeves are concerned, I know that Star, Doniger, Monarch, and Spiewak jackets all had inset sleeves. Not sure if there are more. I wouldn't consider any of those contracts to have generous back panels though. Some do have a bit roomier shoulders though.