“A Better Fighting Garment…” 3.0 - The Guide to U.S. Navy Intermediate Leather Flight Jackets

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The AN-J-3A began production in 1943 and its production continued all the way into the second quarter of 1949, based upon Federal Register records. Contracts were awarded to nine companies: American Sportswear, Arnoff Shoe Co., Bogen & Tenenbaum, Burjac Sportswear, Gordon & Ferguson, H&L Block, L.W. Foster, Monarch, and Willis & Geiger. Moore notes, that “[w]hile H&L Block made a good number of M-422A jackets, it is thought that they made very few AN-6552 jackets”; thus making the H&L Block AN-6552s amongst the rarest of an already scarce group of jackets.

Besides the major Navy bureaus there were purchasing offices and base installations that also procured clothing, such as “N288s” the prefix used by the Aviation Supply Office (ASO) in Philadelphia, between Feb 1942 and May 1945, during which period it was jointly controlled by the Bureau of Aeronautics and Supplies & Accounts. The N383s prefix was used by the ASO for the last contract listed in 1949.

The jacket labels used either Spec No. AN-J-3A or its associated Drawing No. AN6552. Why? It is a joint Army/Navy jacket and the Army Air Force normally orders items from Supply using the Drawing number, just as seen on the A-2 labels with Drawing number 30-1415, while the Navy typically used the Spec number on the label. (It does not matter if the Army Air Force ordered any AN-3-JA jackets or not, but as a joint effort they had to account for both branches.) Of the sixteen contracts eight are labeled AN-6552 and eight are labeled AN-J-3A. Per the AN-J-3A specification, nylon thread is used for the jacket and cotton thread for the buttons.

 

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AN-6552 H.& L. BLOCK CONTRACT N288s-20559​

Contract Dates: Awarded February 1944, completed August 1944 (WSC 441)
Cost of the Contract: $270,000 (WSC 441)
Comments on the leather or mouton: dark brown leather, mouton frequently has faded to a honey color.
Liner: salmon
Thread: dark brown
Zipper(s): blackened brass Talon M-42
Knits: purple
General Comments:
Identifying/Distinguishing Details:

• Block details:
  • The number one identifier of Block Navy jackets is that the vent holes at the armpits are embroidered, rather than having grommets.
  • Block jackets often have shorter sleeves, much like W&G M-422s.
  • No horizontal collar stitching, also like M-422s.
  • Pocket flaps are nicely scalloped.
• Yellow US stencil

Block 20559 Ex. No. 1:

 

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Block 20559 Ex. No. 1 continued:

Block 20559 Ex. No. 2:

 

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AN-J-3A MONARCH MFG.CO. MILWAUKEE CONTRACT N288s-20570​

Contract Dates: Awarded February 1944, completed August 1944 (WSC 2133)
Cost of the Contract: $228,000 (WSC 2133)
Comments on the leather or mouton:
Liner: brown
Thread: medium brown
Zipper(s): brass M-42 Talon
Knits: purple single-ply rib-rack knits
General Comments:
Identifying/Distinguishing Details:

• Monarch details
  • Seam running down back of liner - Monarch is the only manufacturer to do this.
  • Wind flap ends about 1 inch short of bottom of jacket (GW)
  • Tall pockets with well-scalloped flaps
  • Front panels wrap around the back, where they are sewn under the panels of the bi-swing back.
• Inside pocket built into the leather facings, unlike earlier Monarchs.
• Single-stitched back-belt, much like other makers, but unlike Monarch’s earlier contracts.
• black US stencil

Monarch 20570 Ex. No. 1:

Monarch 20570 Ex. No. 2:

 

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AN-J-3A ARNOFF MFG. COMPANY CONTRACT N288xsa 24248​

Contract Dates: Awarded June 1944, completed November 1944 (WSC 234)
Cost of the Contract: $62,000 (WSC 234)
Comments on the leather or mouton:
Liner: somewhere between salmon and brown
Thread: maroon
Zipper(s): blackened brass Conmar “conmatic” zipper
Knits: brown folded A-2-style knits, with maybe a purple cast
General Comments:
Identifying/Distinguishing Details:

• Unique collar design where the curved arc of stitching on the back is actually on its own panel of leather.
• Two-ply simple waistband like an A-2
• Simple button design without ridge running around the edge
• White block letter or simple US stencil