“A Better Fighting Garment…” 3.0 - The Guide to U.S. Navy Intermediate Leather Flight Jackets

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The AN-J-3A began production in 1943 and its production continued all the way into the second quarter of 1949, based upon Federal Register records. Contracts were awarded to nine companies: American Sportswear, Arnoff Shoe Co., Bogen & Tenenbaum, Burjac Sportswear, Gordon & Ferguson, H&L Block, L.W. Foster, Monarch, and Willis & Geiger. Moore notes, that “[w]hile H&L Block made a good number of M-422A jackets, it is thought that they made very few AN-6552 jackets”; thus making the H&L Block AN-6552s amongst the rarest of an already scarce group of jackets.

Besides the major Navy bureaus there were purchasing offices and base installations that also procured clothing, such as “N288s” the prefix used by the Aviation Supply Office (ASO) in Philadelphia, between Feb 1942 and May 1945, during which period it was jointly controlled by the Bureau of Aeronautics and Supplies & Accounts. The N383s prefix was used by the ASO for the last contract listed in 1949.

The jacket labels used either Spec No. AN-J-3A or its associated Drawing No. AN6552. Why? It is a joint Army/Navy jacket and the Army Air Force normally orders items from Supply using the Drawing number, just as seen on the A-2 labels with Drawing number 30-1415, while the Navy typically used the Spec number on the label. (It does not matter if the Army Air Force ordered any AN-3-JA jackets or not, but as a joint effort they had to account for both branches.) Of the sixteen contracts eight are labeled AN-6552 and eight are labeled AN-J-3A. Per the AN-J-3A specification, nylon thread is used for the jacket and cotton thread for the buttons.

 

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AN-6552 H.& L. BLOCK CONTRACT N288s-20559​

Contract Dates: Awarded February 1944, completed August 1944 (WSC 441)
Cost of the Contract: $270,000 (WSC 441)
Comments on the leather or mouton: dark brown leather, mouton frequently has faded to a honey color.
Liner: salmon
Thread: dark brown
Zipper(s): blackened brass Talon M-42
Knits: purple
General Comments:
Identifying/Distinguishing Details:

• Block details:
  • The number one identifier of Block Navy jackets is that the vent holes at the armpits are embroidered, rather than having grommets.
  • Block jackets often have shorter sleeves, much like W&G M-422s.
  • No horizontal collar stitching, also like M-422s.
  • Pocket flaps are nicely scalloped.
• Yellow US stencil

Block 20559 Ex. No. 1:

 

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Block 20559 Ex. No. 1 continued:

Block 20559 Ex. No. 2:

 

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AN-J-3A MONARCH MFG.CO. MILWAUKEE CONTRACT N288s-20570​

Contract Dates: Awarded February 1944, completed August 1944 (WSC 2133)
Cost of the Contract: $228,000 (WSC 2133)
Comments on the leather or mouton:
Liner: brown
Thread: medium brown
Zipper(s): brass M-42 Talon
Knits: purple single-ply rib-rack knits
General Comments:
Identifying/Distinguishing Details:

• Monarch details
  • Seam running down back of liner - Monarch is the only manufacturer to do this.
  • Wind flap ends about 1 inch short of bottom of jacket (GW)
  • Tall pockets with well-scalloped flaps
  • Front panels wrap around the back, where they are sewn under the panels of the bi-swing back.
• Inside pocket built into the leather facings, unlike earlier Monarchs.
• Single-stitched back-belt, much like other makers, but unlike Monarch’s earlier contracts.
• black US stencil

Monarch 20570 Ex. No. 1:

Monarch 20570 Ex. No. 2:

 

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AN-J-3A ARNOFF MFG. COMPANY CONTRACT N288xsa 24248​

Contract Dates: Awarded June 1944, completed November 1944 (WSC 234)
Cost of the Contract: $62,000 (WSC 234)
Comments on the leather or mouton:
Liner: somewhere between salmon and brown
Thread: maroon
Zipper(s): blackened brass Conmar “conmatic” zipper
Knits: brown folded A-2-style knits, with maybe a purple cast
General Comments:
Identifying/Distinguishing Details:

• Unique collar design where the curved arc of stitching on the back is actually on its own panel of leather.
• Two-ply simple waistband like an A-2
• Simple button design without ridge running around the edge
• White block letter or simple US stencil

Arnoff 24248 Ex. No. 1:

Arnoff 24248 Ex. No. 2:

 

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Arnoff 24248 Ex. No. 2, continued:

 

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AN-6552 BOGEN & TENENBAUM CONTRACT N288s-24331​

Contract Dates: Awarded June 1944, completed November 1944 (WSC 452)
Cost of the Contract: $63,000 (WSC 452)
Comments on the leather or mouton:
Liner: brown with a reddish hue
Thread: brown or reddish (GW)
Zipper(s): blackened brass conmar “conmatic” zipper
Knits: brown folded A-2-style knits
General Comments:
Identifying/Distinguishing Details:

• Bogen details:
  • Leather facing inside the zipper made up of several panels
  • Slender sleeves and lower torso with more room around the shoulders and upper back (GW)
  • Front panels wrap around the back, where they are sewn on top of the panels of the bi-swing back.
  • Angular top of the windflap
  • Two-ply simple waistband like an A-2
• White/silver US stencil

Bogen 24331 Ex. No. 1:

 

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AN-6552 AMERICAN SPORTSWEAR CO. CONTRACT N288s-24332​

Contract Dates: Awarded June 1944, completed November 1944 (WSC 156)
Cost of the Contract: $100,000 (WSC 156)
Comments on the leather or mouton: goatskin is generally very dark brown. American Sportswear had some of the nicest leather and mouton among Navy contractors, and they frequently have survived in good condition (JC 1/14/25).
Liner: salmon
Thread: dark brown or maroon
Zipper(s): blackened brass conmar “conmatic” zipper
Knits: maroon single-ply rib-rack knits
General Comments:
Identifying/Distinguishing Details:

• American Sportswear details:
  • almost rectangular pocket flaps that arc gently downward in the center.
  • Wide seam allowance on the pockets and pocket flaps
  • Pencil pocket is abnormally close to the center of the pocket body, almost crowding the pocket button.
  • Front panels wrap around the back, where they are sewn under the panels of the bi-swing back.
  • Angled windflap
  • Collar points are on the acute side, with a rounded point.
• Salmon-colored lining
• Black buttons
• Very dark brown, almost black leather
• yellow US stencil

American Sportswear 24332 Ex. No. 1:

 

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American Sportswear 24332 Ex. No. 2:

 

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AN-J-3A GORDON & FERGUSON CO. CONTRACT N288s-24333​

Contract Dates: Awarded June 1944, completed November 1944 (WSC 1397)
Cost of the Contract: $100,000 (WSC 1397)
Comments on the leather or mouton: Sometimes still a lighter brown with yellow undertones like G&F’s earlier contracts, although darker browns, more typical of what we see expect from G-1s are more common.
Liner: brown , with some purplish undertones
Thread: dark brown, medium brown
Zipper(s): brass-covered Talon M-43
Knits: brown single-ply rib-rack knits with a purple hue
General Comments:
Identifying/Distinguishing Details:

• Unlike G&F’s earlier jackets, the pockets on their AN-J-3As are the same width, although they retain the same scalloping and general look. Their pencil pocket is now created by making a slit in the body of the pocket, similar to Willis & Geiger’s.
• Wide seam allowance around the pockets.
• Front panels stitched over the back panels, typical of G&F.
• Zipper begins 1-2 inches above the bottom of the jacket.
• Silver US stencil

G&F 24333 Ex. No. 1:

G&F 24333 Ex. No. 2:

 

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AN-J-3A BURJAC SPORTSWEAR INC. CONTRACT N288s-24369​

Contract Dates: Awarded June 1944, completed November 1944 (WSC 542)
Cost of the Contract: $62,000 (WSC 452)
Comments on the leather or mouton:
Liner: brown
Thread: light brown
Zipper(s): brass-covered Talon M-43
Knits: brown single-ply rib-rack knits, sometimes purple
General Comments:

• Manufacturer formerly known as "Edmund T. Church Co."

Identifying/Distinguishing Details:

• Burjac (formerly Church) details:
  • Front panels wrap around the back, where they are sewn under the panels of the bi-swing back.
  • Large pocket flaps with very little, if any, scalloping, just triangular.
  • Button holes are frequently very low on the pocket flap, almost touching the flap stitching.
  • Angular top of the windfap.
  • Tall zipper box
• White U.S. stencil

Burjac 24369 Ex. No. 1:

 

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Burjac 24369 Ex. No.2:

 

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AN-6552 AMERICAN SPORTSWEAR CO. CONTRACT N288s-28627​

Contract Dates: January 1945 – May 1945 (WSC 156)
Cost of the Contract: $181,000 (WSC 156)
Comments on the leather or mouton: American Sportswear had some of the nicest leather and mouton among Navy contractors, and they frequently have survived in good condition (JC 1/14/25)
Liner: salmon
Thread: dark brown
Zipper(s): blackened Talon M-43
Knits: medium brown single-ply rib-rack knits
General Comments:
Identifying/Distinguishing Details:

• American Sportswear details:
  • almost rectangular pocket flaps that arc gently downward in the center.
  • Wide seam allowance on the pockets and pocket flaps
  • Pencil pocket is abnormally close to the center of the pocket body, almost crowding the pocket button.
  • Front panels wrap around the back, where they are sewn under the panels of the bi-swing back.
  • Angled windflap
  • Collar points are on the acute side, with a rounded point.
• Salmon-colored lining
• yellow US stencil

American Sportswear 28627 Ex. No. 1:

 

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AN-6552 WILLIS AND GEIGER INC. CONTRACT N288s28628​

Contract Dates: January 1945 – May 1945 (WSC 3445)
Cost of the Contract: $188,000 (WSC 3445)
Comments on the leather or mouton: leather is a very dark brown, much like later Navy jackets; mouton has very frequently faded to a honey color.
Liner: a warm brown
Thread: medium brown
Zipper(s): blackened Talon M-43
Knits: dark brown with a hint of a purple hue
General Comments:
Identifying/Distinguishing Details:

• W&G details:
  • W&G was famous for having a rather boxy fit on all their Navy jacket contracts.
  • inside pocket surrounded by leather facings
  • nice gentle scalloping on the pocket flaps with rounded pocket corners (JC CD > USN > M-422A > W&G)
  • Large zipper box (JC CD > USN > M-422A > W&G)
  • John Chapman observes that W&G jackets can often be seen with mis-matched jacket panels (JC CD > USN > M-422A > W&G)
  • Front panels wrap around the back, where they are sewn under the panels of the bi-swing back.
• Horizontal stitching on the back of the collar - W&G only started adding this during the AN-J-3A series.
• Mouton has very frequently faded to a honey color
• White U.S. stencil.

W&G 28628 Ex. No. 1:

 

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W&G 28628 Ex. No. 2:

 

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AN-J-3A MONARCH MFG. CO. MILWAUKEE CONTRACT N288xsa-28665​

Contract Dates: January 1945 – May 1945 (WSC 2133)
Cost of the Contract: $187,000 (WSC 2133)
Comments on the leather or mouton: leather seems to be a warmer brown, more in line with earlier AN-J-3As.
Liner: brown
Thread: maroon
Zipper(s): blackened Talon M-43
Knits: purple single-ply rib-rack knits
General Comments:
Identifying/Distinguishing Details:

• Monarch details
  • Seam running down back of liner - Monarch is the only manufacturer to do this.
  • Wind flap ends about 1 inch short of bottom of jacket (GW)
  • Tall pockets with well-scalloped flaps
  • Front panels wrap around the back, where they are sewn under the panels of the bi-swing back.
• Inside pocket built into the leather facings, unlike earlier Monarchs.
• Single-stitched back-belt, much like other makers, but unlike Monarch’s earlier contracts.
• black US stencil

Monarch 28665 Ex. No. 1:

 

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AN-J-3A GORDON & FERGUSON CO. CONTRACT N288s - 32277​

Contract Dates: Awarded May 1945, completed November 1945 (WSC 1397)
Cost of the Contract: $113,000 (WSC 1397)
Comments on the leather or mouton:
Liner: medium brown with purplish undertones
Thread: brown
Zipper(s): blackened Talon
Knits: brown with strong purple undertones
General Comments:
Identifying/Distinguishing Details:

• Unlike G&F’s earlier jackets, the pockets on their AN-J-3As are the same width, although they retain the same scalloping and general look. Their pencil pocket is now created by making a slit in the body of the pocket, similar to Willis & Geiger’s.
• Wide seam allowance around the pockets.
• Front panels stitched over the back panels, typical of G&F.
• Zipper begins 1-2 inches above bottom of jacket.
• Silver US stencil

G&F 32277 Ex. No. 1:

 

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AN-6552 BOGEN & TENENBAUM CONTRACT N288s32281​

Contract Dates: Awarded May 1945, completed October 1945 (WSC 452)
Cost of the Contract: $104,000 (WSC 452)
Comments on the leather or mouton: dark brown goatskin that easily fades to a warmer brown
Liner: brown
Thread: reddish brown
Zipper(s): blackened brass conmar “conmatic” zipper
Knits: brown folded A-2 style knits with strong purple undertones
General Comments:
Identifying/Distinguishing Details:

• Bogen details:
  • Leather facing inside the zipper made up of several panels
  • Slender sleeves and lower torso with more room around the shoulders and upper back (GW)
  • Front panels wrap around the back, where they are sewn on top of the panels of the bi-swing back.
  • Angular top of the windflap
  • Two-ply simple waistband like an A-2
• White/silver U.S. stencil in block letters

Bogen 32281 Ex. No. 1:

 

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Bogen 32281 Ex. No. 2:

 

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AN-6552 WILLIS AND GEIGER INC. CONTRACT N288s32357​

Contract Dates: Awarded May 1945, completed October 1945 (WSC 3445)
Cost of the Contract: $355,000 (WSC 3445)
Comments on the leather or mouton: dark brown goatskin
Liner: brown
Thread: medium brown
Zipper(s): blackened talon M-42 straight puller - may be a replacement. John Chapman has an unlabeled W&G AN-6552 on his flight jacket CD with a similar slider, so maybe original! (JC CD > Navy > AN-6552 > W&G)
Knits: brown single-ply rib-rack knits
General Comments:
Identifying/Distinguishing Details:

• W&G details:
  • W&G was famous for having a rather boxy fit on all their Navy jacket contracts.
  • inside pocket surrounded by leather facings
  • nice gentle scalloping on the pocket flaps with rounded pocket corners (JC CD > USN > M-422A > W&G)
  • Large zipper box (JC cd > USN > M-422A > W&G)
  • John Chapman observes that W&G jackets can often be seen with mis-matched jacket panels (JC CD> USN > M-422A > W&G)
  • Front panels wrap around the back, where they are sewn under the panels of the bi-swing back.
• Horizontal stitching on the back of the collar - W&G only started adding this during the AN-J-3A series.
• White/Silver U.S. Stencil

W&G 32357 Ex. No. 1: