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“A Better Fighting Garment…” 2.0 - A Revised Guide to the U.S. Navy's Intermediate Leather Flight Jackets

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Lord Flashheart

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PREFACE

In December 2021 Jan, Wei and I posted a thread entitled “A Better Fighting Garment…” - A Beginner’s Guide to the US Navy’s WWII-era and later Intermediate Flight Jackets. We wanted to fill a gap in the knowledge base on the forum and the thread was written as a “Beginners Guide”. We were very grateful for the help of a number of Forum members and others in developing the content.

Since our Guide was posted the thread has inspired discussion on all manner of points associated with these jackets. We have recognised that there was more to say, some corrections to make and some references to provide to help others explore this considerable series. This thread is therefore a Revised Guide and we hope it will be even more illuminating than its predecessor.

We have made the decision to retain that original thread, unaltered, as a Discussion thread. We believe that this preserves the transparency of the information as it emerged. We encourage the use of that thread, rather than this resource, as the place for discussion so that this sticky can remain focused and readily searchable.

On a personal level Wei and I would like to give Jan special credit for his diligence and hard work in detailed research and helping to drive these revisions. His energy has kept up our momentum to improve this Guide for the benefit of everyone here.

INTRODUCTION

Various threads on VLJ which have listed the US Navy contracts from the M-422 to G-1 series of leather flying jackets. This version 2.0 of our original thread updates the information we now have to sit alongside the A-2 contract dates thread as a resource on the Forum. The original thread and our acknowledgements have been retained and left open as a discussion thread for members interested in Navy jackets and we hope that it can be both a resource in its own right and space where issues and nuances of this long series of jackets can be debated.

In compiling this guide we have sought advice and opinion from Dave Sheeley and John Chapman at various points of uncertainty or ambiguity. They have, without fail, kindly helped us to understand so what there is to know about the design and evolution of the Navy’s intermediate leather flight jacket. John’s US Flight Jacket CD was also an invaluable source of information, particularly for features distinguishing individual contracts.

Finally, in documenting these contracts, we have been greatly indebted to Aota Mituhiro’s Full Gear (abbreviated when citing sources as FG) and the Civilian Production Administration’s Alphabetic Listing of Major War Supply Contracts (abbreviated when citing sources as WSC).

We’d like to thank all of our fellow Forum members who have helped us by sharing their knowledge and for making our original thread as interesting a discussion as it has become. We hope that continues.

If you have more information please do share that in the original – now Discussion – thread first so that this thread can remain a focused sticky. Thanks !

AN OVERVIEW

Discussion of jacket types in this hobby, among Navy jackets and beyond, frequently boils down to a discussion of hard and fast differences between jacket types: B-15 vs. B-15A, L-2A vs. L2B, etc. This impulse is understandable, but it actually doesn’t get us very far when discussing Navy jackets, especially the early ones.

The reality is, prior to about 1960, manufacturers who won a contract to make an intermediate flight jacket for the Navy were provided with a sketch and a list of specifications that the jacket had to meet. As was the case with the manufacturers of the Air Force’s A-2 jackets, Navy contractors were afforded latitude to make the garments as they saw fit. But whereas on the army side, the practice frequently was to change jacket specifications only when they needed to make a real structural change to the jackets (nobody would ever mistake an A-2 for a B-10), changes to Navy jacket specifications are not necessarily reflected in the appearance of the jackets. Sometimes there were real changes in materials or design, but just as frequently, a change in specification reflected a change as small as an update to the contract language (Chapman, 3 Dec. ‘21). There are many cases like the Willis & Geiger M-422A, which has much less in common with other jackets in that series than it does with W&G’s previous M-422 contract.

In short, when you’re looking at Navy Flight Jackets, it pays to look less for differences between jacket specifications and more for differences between contracts & manufacturers.

STRUCTURE

The evolution of the US Navy’s (USN) primary intermediate flight jacket can be traced through 12 iterations or “specifications.” This guide is structured into 12 specifications split over 3 parts: WW2, the 50s, and the Vietnam era. The specifications in chronological sequence of posts are:

 

Lord Flashheart

Well-Known Member
Part 1 - The Second World War - Pre and Early WW2 jackets


1. M-422 [1940]


The M-422 jacket is the great-grandfather and progenitor to the basic formula of the USN intermediate leather flight jacket as we know it today. The design is understood to have originated in Philadelphia Navy Yard in 1938 (FG 120; https://www.usmilitariaforum.com/forums/index.php?/topic/15380-wwii-us-navy-flight-jackets-m-422-M-422A-m-421a-m-445a-AN-J-3A-an-6552/page/14/).

The Specification was issued on 28 March 1940. Sharp mouton collar, action-pleated bi-swing back, patch pockets with a button closure, single-ply rib racked knits, internal wind-flap with USN marked underneath the collar in stencil. The M-422 was most famously worn by the American Volunteer Group, a group of pilots who went to fight on behalf of the Chinese government against Japan before America entered World War II (See Bill Kelso’s write-up for their M-422 repro and John Chapman’s CD > M-422 > Willis & Geiger for examples of the association between the M-422 and the AVG).

Contracts were issued to just three companies: Willis & Geiger, Switlik Parachute Co., and Monarch Mfg. Co. The Switlik was far and away the smallest of the contracts, in terms of the number of jackets produced, and this contract remained unknown until the 21st century (Full Gear, for example, which was published in 2005, does not list it).

The most loose pattern among the three M-422 makers is the Willis & Geiger (W&G) and this is the most boxy of the M-422 jackets. It also has frustratingly short sleeves. The Switlik and Monarch both have longer sleeves. The Switlik is much less boxy than W&G’s jackets, and the Monarch is slightly less loose and boxy again than the Switlik. A few key features of the M-422 include a generally wider collar than later types and an absence of arched horizontal stitching on the collar reverse. The pre-WW2 USN leather flying jackets have also been shown to have been stitched in silk. The pencil holder detail on the left (as worn) pocket varies between makes. The Switlik pencil holder is a sleeve of leather inside the pocket, whereas Monarch and Willis & Geiger have a cut-out slot in the body of the pocket. Monarch changed the pattern of their throat latch in contracts after M-422.

SPECIFICATION: M-422Contract datesIdentifying Features & comments[Source]/Links
WILLIS AND GEIGER INC. CONTRACT-No. N156s16957Believed Fiscal Year 1940Short sleeves; boxy fit; brass talon zipper; often appears in a lighter brown than is typical of Navy jackets.[FG 120; Chapman CD> M-422> W&G]
WILLIS AND GEIGER INC. CONTRACT-No. S-74892Probable Fiscal Year 1940Short sleeves; boxy fit; brass talon zipper.[FG 120; Chapman CD> M-422> W&G]
Switlik Parachute and Equipment Co. CONTRACT-No. 76640Likely awarded Late 1940 or early 1941. Delivered January to March 1941.Only 247 jackets were delivered to the USN.

Pencil sleeve in left pocket; snap on the map pocket is not visible when pocket is closed.
[Sheeley].
https://www.vintageleatherjackets.o...-parachute-and-equipment-company-m-422.24872/
https://www.vintageleatherjackets.org/threads/M-422-M-422A-related-question.29421/page-2#post-378305
https://www.vintageleatherjackets.o...-m-422-switlik-image.24222/page-2#post-383377
Monarch Mfg. Company CONTRACT-No. 79633Awarded 12/40 completed 2/41Seam running down back of liner; wind flap ends 1 inch short of bottom of jacket; black USN stencil; inside pocket bordered on three sides by liner, unlike later Monarchs.[WSC 2132; Chapman CD> AN-J-3A> Monarch]
 
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mulceber

Moderator
Delivery Receipt for Switlik jackets from NAS Pensacola:
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M-422 - Switlik Parachute Co. 76640. Photos courtesy of John Chapman - note the alterations made to the pocket flaps, as well as the replacement zipper and liner.
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Lord Flashheart

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2. M-422A [1940 - 1943]

The immediate question that comes up with the M-422A is what differences there were between this specification and its predecessor. This simple question deceptively conceals two more complicated ones:

  1. What changes in design made the Navy’s decision makers think they needed a new specification?
  2. How can we tell the two jacket types apart?

Jacket aficionados tend to treat the two questions as the same. This produces all kinds of answers, and most of them are probably wrong. Eastman (https://www.eastmanleather.com/usn-eastman-jackets/181-eastman-M-422A.html), in their write-ups for their Navy jackets, claim that the addition of the pencil pocket, and the resultant widening of the front pocket, led to the new specification. Aota Mituhiro, a bit more cautiously, notes the short sleeves on the M-422 and speculates that lengthening the jacket sleeves caused the Navy to create a new jacket type (FG 120). Neither of these explanations works. Both the Switlik and the Monarch M-422 have sleeve lengths comparable to the later M-422A (see pictures & contract data below), so Aota's explanation cannot be correct, and few of the M-422A's manufacturers widened the pocket to make room for the pencil pocket, so Eastman's explanation must be wrong as well.

More insightfully, Dave Sheeley has observed that all of the M-422s were made with silk thread, and that, with the M-422A, all of the manufacturers except for Monarch switched to cotton: http://www.vintageleatherjackets.org/threads/silk-stitched-usn-M-422A-jackets.24463/

The Specification M-422A dated 1st October 1940 includes reference to both linen and silk thread but we have not, to date, established that the Specification required a specific thread for use on a particular seam or whether thread type was a manufacturer choice. Sheeley’s hypothesis might explain why Monarch used silk thread on their M-422A whilst Willis & Geiger did not.

Barring a complete review of both the M-422 and the M-422A Specifications and Drawings, we're unlikely ever to know what changes triggered the creation of a new specification, and this may well be an example of minute changes in contract wording leading to a new jacket type. Perhaps the strongest argument is that the M-422 was simply a test specification for the Navy to work out what they wanted. Once they had a jacket they were happy with, the design was finalized as the M-422A.

While we can't answer Question 1, the second question (how to tell the jacket types apart) is a lot simpler. The M-422 has corrosion-resistant zippers (brass, blackening), while the A-series almost universally has nickel zippers (except for some Block M-422A jackets that have brass zippers). Could that be the change that led the Navy to create a new jacket specification? Possibly, but silk thread and brown lining were still listed on the jacket specifications, even though these details were ignored in practice. The same could also be true of the corrosion-resistant zippers.

The first M-422A contracts were let to companies starting in late 1940 or early 1941 (likely early 1941, if the finish date for the previous specification means anything) and the Navy continued buying this jacket type through late 1942 or early 1943. Six companies were hired to carry out the work, including two of the three previous M-422 contractors, Willis & Geiger, and Monarch, as well as four new companies: Gordon & Ferguson, Fried, Ostermann & Co., Edmund T. Church Co., and H & L Block.


SPECIFICATION: M-422AContract datesIdentifying Features & comments[Source]/Links
WILLIS AND GEIGER INC. CONTRACT NO. 85956First contract awarded to any maker for M-422A jackets in the 1941 Fiscal YearLonger sleeves than M-422 contracts; boxy fit; mostly brown liner, although salmon is attested; prone to mismatched leather panels.[FG 120; Chapman CD> M-422A> W&G]
MONARCH MFG. CO.
NOS- 85958
Probable Fiscal Year 1941Seam running down back of liner; wind flap ends 1 inch short of bottom of jacket; inside pocket bordered on three sides by liner, unlike later Monarchs.[FG 120; Chapman CD> AN-J-3A> Monarch]
GORDON & FERGUSON CO. CONTRACT NO. 88860Awarded 6/41, completed 1/42Larger left pocket featuring sewn pencil pocket line; back leather panel seams go over front panels (in contrast to G&F’s later contracts); wide seam allowance around pockets; this contract sometimes had a salmon liner, and sometimes a brown liner. It is also occasionally seen with blackened talon zippers, similar to spec. M-422.[WSC 1397; Chapman CD> M-422A> G&F #4]
WILLIS AND GEIGER INC. CONTRACT-Nos.290AAwarded 3/42, completed 10/43 (sic). Probably should read 10/42, as it is very difficult to believe the Navy would put up with a jacket contract taking over a year and a half to complete in the middle of a war, and Aota lists the contract being completed in Probable Fiscal Year 1943Longer sleeves than M-422 contracts; boxy fit; mostly brown liner, although salmon is attested; prone to mismatched leather panels.[WSC 3444; FG 120; Chapman CD> M-422A> W&G]
WILLIS AND GEIGER INC. CONTRACT-NXs-290Probable Fiscal Year 1943; likely completed around the same time as the previous entryLonger sleeves than M-422 contracts; boxy fit; mostly brown liner, although salmon is attested; prone to mismatched leather panels.[FG 120; Chapman CD> M-422A> W&G]
GORDON & FERGUSON CO. CONTRACT NO. NOs.416-AProbable Fiscal Year 1943Smaller contract completed before G&F’s NXs.416 contract; larger left pocket featuring sewn pencil pocket line; back leather panel seams go over front panels (in contrast to G&F’s later contracts); wide seam allowance around pockets; salmon liner[FG 120; Chapman CD> M-422A> G&F #4; https://www.vintageleatherjackets.org/threads/discussion-“a-better-fighting-garment…”-a-beginner’s-guide-to-the-us-navy’s-wwii-era-and-later-intermediate-flight-jackets.27377/post-340205]
GORDON & FERGUSON CO. CONTRACT NO. NXs.416Awarded 3/42 completed 5/42Large contract; larger left pocket featuring sewn pencil pocket line; front leather panel seams go over back panels; wide seam allowance around pockets; salmon liner[WSC 1397; Chapman CD> M-422A> G&F #4]
FRIED, OSTERMAN CO. CONTRACT NO. 1405-AAwarded 3/42, completed 7/44 (sic). Probably should read 7/42, as it is very difficult to believe the Navy would put up with a jacket contract taking over two and a half years to complete in the middle of a war, and Aota lists the contract being completed in Probable Fiscal Year 1943.Outward facing seam on the sleeve-side of the underarm gussets; frequently narrow shoulders; back-belt has two rows of stitching on top and bottom; 2-ply waistband; black USN stencil.[WSC 1397; FG 120; Chapman CD> M-422A> Fried Ostermann #3]
FRIED, OSTERMAN CO. CONTRACT NO. 1406-AAwarded 3/42, completed 1/43Outward facing seam on the sleeve-side of the underarm gussets; frequently narrow shoulders; back-belt has two rows of stitching on top and bottom; 2-ply waistband; black USN stencil.[FG 120; WSC 1213; Chapman CD> M-422A> Fried Ostermann #3]
FRIED, OSTERMAN CO. CONTRACT NO. 1406 EXT.AAwarded 3/42, completed 1/43Outward facing seam on the sleeve-side of the underarm gussets; frequently narrow shoulders; back-belt has two rows of stitching on top and bottom; 2-ply waistband; black USN stencil.[FG 120; WSC 1213; Chapman CD> M-422A> Fried Ostermann #3]
EDMUND T. CHURCH CO. INC. CONTRACT No. NXs-5133Awarded 5/42, completed 11/42Black USN stencil; frequently appears in medium brown leather; mouton has frequently faded to a honey brown liner can be salmon or brown; large, gently scalloped pocket flaps; angular top of the windfap; front panels sewn over back; waist knits taller than most makers.[WSC 683; FG 120; Chapman CD> M-422A> Church #1]
H. & L. BLOCK CONTRACT No. NXS-5134Awarded 5/42 completed 8/42#1 identifier is embroidered vent holes instead of grommets; no horizontal collar stitching; yellow USN stencil; shorter sleeves; only M-422A contractor to (sometimes) use brass zippers (talons).[FG 120; WSC 441; Chapman CD> M-422A> Block #1, 2 & 3]
H. & L. BLOCK CONTRACT No. NXSa-5134Probable Fiscal Year 1943; likely awarded and completed at the same time as the previous entry.#1 identifier is embroidered vent holes instead of grommets; no horizontal collar stitching; yellow USN stencil; shorter sleeves; only M-422A contractor to (sometimes) use brass zippers (talons).[FG 120; Chapman CD> M-422A> Block #1, 2 & 3].
 
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