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Repro Irvin project - UPDATE
- Thread starter jonnyboy
- Start date
John Lever
Moderator
Well done Jon, can't wait to see a completed jacket.
jonnyboy
Member
Thanks for the encouragement guys.
Andrew, the skins are from Fenland. I got them to match to an original skin sample back in 2009. It took me a while to source all the different materials, and have buckles, etc made.
Zoomer, I looked around for a while to get the machines I eventually bought. I originally started with a domestic machine, but it was completely unsuitable! My twin needle machine broke soon after I bought it, and it took me a while to find someone local who could fix it. Now, both machines (twin needle and fur machine) seem to be working fine, so hopefully I'll have the test jacket completed within the next month or so.
Cheers,
Jon
Andrew, the skins are from Fenland. I got them to match to an original skin sample back in 2009. It took me a while to source all the different materials, and have buckles, etc made.
Zoomer, I looked around for a while to get the machines I eventually bought. I originally started with a domestic machine, but it was completely unsuitable! My twin needle machine broke soon after I bought it, and it took me a while to find someone local who could fix it. Now, both machines (twin needle and fur machine) seem to be working fine, so hopefully I'll have the test jacket completed within the next month or so.
Cheers,
Jon
jonnyboy
Member
Re: Repro Irvin project - UPDATE (made a sleeve!)
Hi guys,
This is my first attempt at making a sleeve. Some of the stitching is very dodgy (although, judging by the stitching on many wartime examples, it would probably have passed Air Ministry inspector standards!), but on the whole I'm really pleased with how it's all coming together. It was quite tricky putting the zip in, but great fun working out how it all fits together!
I'm hoping that practice will lead to stitching which is neat enough. This isn't just the first Irvin I've attempted to make - it's the first thing I've ever made with a sewing machine!
Cheers,
Jon
Hi guys,
This is my first attempt at making a sleeve. Some of the stitching is very dodgy (although, judging by the stitching on many wartime examples, it would probably have passed Air Ministry inspector standards!), but on the whole I'm really pleased with how it's all coming together. It was quite tricky putting the zip in, but great fun working out how it all fits together!
I'm hoping that practice will lead to stitching which is neat enough. This isn't just the first Irvin I've attempted to make - it's the first thing I've ever made with a sewing machine!
Cheers,
Jon
jonnyboy
Member
Ben, the fleece is the right length, but the cuff isn't sewn yet - just folded over. It won't look as big when it's finished.
I've noticed that with each skin there's a variety in the texture, with the 'neck' end being a little denser, and the 'rump' end shaggier. However, when the fleece gets wet, it dries with a more consistent texture. I've tested bits of the skins over the last year (washing, leaving outside in the sun and rain, etc) and it develops nice character on the leather side, with the wool side fading a bit to a nice digestive biscuit-like colour.
When I get chance, I'll post some pics of how the sheepskin looks when not so new looking.
Cheers,
Jon
I've noticed that with each skin there's a variety in the texture, with the 'neck' end being a little denser, and the 'rump' end shaggier. However, when the fleece gets wet, it dries with a more consistent texture. I've tested bits of the skins over the last year (washing, leaving outside in the sun and rain, etc) and it develops nice character on the leather side, with the wool side fading a bit to a nice digestive biscuit-like colour.
When I get chance, I'll post some pics of how the sheepskin looks when not so new looking.
Cheers,
Jon
jonnyboy
Member
Søren, the testing I did was really to see how the skins hold up when put through extremes, and to see how the wool and leather sides develop character with use over time. I should imagine that newly issued jackets in the war would have developed texture, faded, etc. through use. With cuffs and collars tending to fade and show wear more than the interiors of the jackets.
I'd be tempted to just let your Aero jacket age naturally, through lots of wearing!
Cheers,
Jon
I'd be tempted to just let your Aero jacket age naturally, through lots of wearing!
Cheers,
Jon
jonnyboy
Member
Ben - glad you like it. It's been a very steep learning curve, but it's getting there.
Your previous post didn't seem rude at all. I know exactly what you mean about the fleece looking a bit long at the cuff. When I've sewn the cuff, and finished the sleeve, I'll post another pic. Hopefully it'll look a bit better then.
Getting good honest feedback on the progress of this project is invaluable. I'm hoping to end up with a jacket which addresses many of the issues that some people have with ELC jackets.
Cheers,
Jon
Your previous post didn't seem rude at all. I know exactly what you mean about the fleece looking a bit long at the cuff. When I've sewn the cuff, and finished the sleeve, I'll post another pic. Hopefully it'll look a bit better then.
Getting good honest feedback on the progress of this project is invaluable. I'm hoping to end up with a jacket which addresses many of the issues that some people have with ELC jackets.
Cheers,
Jon
Andrew
Well-Known Member
Jon, this is all very teasing for us you should know- just getting to see little bits like this. That sleeve looks excellent. Where are you planning on taking this eventually- creating a commmercial product and giving it a name or just informally making them for fellow Irvin nuts?
Any chance of getting a gander of your zippers?
Thanks for keeping us informed.
Any chance of getting a gander of your zippers?
Thanks for keeping us informed.
jonnyboy
Member
Glad you like it so far, Andrew.
The reason for doing this in the first place was through not wanting to ruin original jackets by constantly wearing them, and not being happy with the Irvin repros currently on offer. Essentially, I'm trying to make a repro which is as close to an original as I can get it. Hopefully, if it all turns out well, it will be something which I can make for other interested forum members, then look to setting up a more commercial venture. There are so many makers of A-2s, and various other flight jackets, but not many credible Irvin repros on offer. Hopefully, there'll be room for one more maker!
I'm really happy with my materials - the sheepskin is great, and I love the leather too. I'll get some photos up soon of how that ages, fades, etc. I'll also take some detailed shots of the zips. They're pretty good, but they are the only component that I would be keen to improve on over time. The buckles are good, and the thread is the same type that both John Chapman and ELC use. All the other bits like eyelets, rivets, etc are authentic looking too. It cost a fair amount to have the zips made. Riri quoted me £20k to make an accurate Lightning copy!! The zips I've had made are OK (not made by Riri), and are maybe comparable with ELC ones (although I don't have the Dot stopper box). I think, once I'm happy with the construction quality of the test jackets (I'm expecting I'll need to make a few to get up to speed), I'll probably then use zips from Waldes in Japan - they make a nice Lightning-style zip.
I'll keep posting updates - my aim is to finish the first test jacket in the next few weeks.
Cheers,
Jon
The reason for doing this in the first place was through not wanting to ruin original jackets by constantly wearing them, and not being happy with the Irvin repros currently on offer. Essentially, I'm trying to make a repro which is as close to an original as I can get it. Hopefully, if it all turns out well, it will be something which I can make for other interested forum members, then look to setting up a more commercial venture. There are so many makers of A-2s, and various other flight jackets, but not many credible Irvin repros on offer. Hopefully, there'll be room for one more maker!
I'm really happy with my materials - the sheepskin is great, and I love the leather too. I'll get some photos up soon of how that ages, fades, etc. I'll also take some detailed shots of the zips. They're pretty good, but they are the only component that I would be keen to improve on over time. The buckles are good, and the thread is the same type that both John Chapman and ELC use. All the other bits like eyelets, rivets, etc are authentic looking too. It cost a fair amount to have the zips made. Riri quoted me £20k to make an accurate Lightning copy!! The zips I've had made are OK (not made by Riri), and are maybe comparable with ELC ones (although I don't have the Dot stopper box). I think, once I'm happy with the construction quality of the test jackets (I'm expecting I'll need to make a few to get up to speed), I'll probably then use zips from Waldes in Japan - they make a nice Lightning-style zip.
I'll keep posting updates - my aim is to finish the first test jacket in the next few weeks.
Cheers,
Jon
