Dr H
Well-Known Member
Comparison of A-1 jackets from Eastman Leather Company and Good Wear Leather
Hello again everyone
Apologies for another long post so soon after my recent set of photos of the Eastman Leather Company A-1. As I mentioned in a recent post, I had the good fortune to buy Steve’s (bseal) Good Wear A-1 and I’m posting a set of images here.
There appears to be no definitive pattern for the A-1 from the original photographs posted on the Forum. Although both examples compared here are based on original jackets bearing the label ‘Type A-1 Drawing No. AN-6501, A.C. Order No. 31-800 P’ (and smaller, separate square size labels), they differ in several elements of their detailing, which will be highlighted in the images. Both jackets are fastened with five horn buttons (backed with smaller white horn buttons) on the torso, two snaps at the knitted waist (earlier original examples also show two small button fastenings), and a further pair of buttons at the knitted collar.
This GW version of the A-1 is perhaps the third or fourth generation of this jacket – earlier examples in US domestic capeskin (and also horsehide) are shown on the Good Wear Leather website (http://www.goodwearleather.com/pages/type_a1.html). To date this is the only jacket of this kind to have been made from the finely grained and figured Italian capeskin. This version is based on archive photographs, including the photographs of the extremely well weathered original in Suit Up (viewtopic.php?f=8&t=315&start=10).
For those not familiar with the pattern, it is not really designed for extensive layering as it fits closely and has been likened to wearing a sweater. Above all it’s a very comfortable jacket in use – the hide is lightweight and supple, but surprisingly strong due to the narrow graining.
The main elements of the construction are very similar to the ELC offering, with the exception that the sleeves are constructed in three pieces with a raw, unfinished edge and triple stitching. The colour of lining is more mustard coloured (compared with the darker brown lining of the ELC). The hide is incredible – soft and with a slightly satin sheen (it already looks vintage and I’ll be wearing it in daily to develop this further).
The photographs were taken this morning outside under cloudy November skies (with a bit of drizzle in the air).
For the record, the statistics of the jacket:
Good Wear Leather A-1 (46)
Weight = 1.1 kg
Shoulder width = 19.5” (49.5 cm)
Pit-to-pit = 23.5” (60 cm)
Front length = 24.5” (62 cm)
Back length = 26.5” (67.5 cm) (from top of back panel to bottom of waistband)
Arm length = 25” (63.5 cm) (including knitted cuff)
“Epaulette length” = 7” (17.5 cm)
Collar depth = 2.5” (6 cm)
Hello again everyone
Apologies for another long post so soon after my recent set of photos of the Eastman Leather Company A-1. As I mentioned in a recent post, I had the good fortune to buy Steve’s (bseal) Good Wear A-1 and I’m posting a set of images here.
There appears to be no definitive pattern for the A-1 from the original photographs posted on the Forum. Although both examples compared here are based on original jackets bearing the label ‘Type A-1 Drawing No. AN-6501, A.C. Order No. 31-800 P’ (and smaller, separate square size labels), they differ in several elements of their detailing, which will be highlighted in the images. Both jackets are fastened with five horn buttons (backed with smaller white horn buttons) on the torso, two snaps at the knitted waist (earlier original examples also show two small button fastenings), and a further pair of buttons at the knitted collar.
This GW version of the A-1 is perhaps the third or fourth generation of this jacket – earlier examples in US domestic capeskin (and also horsehide) are shown on the Good Wear Leather website (http://www.goodwearleather.com/pages/type_a1.html). To date this is the only jacket of this kind to have been made from the finely grained and figured Italian capeskin. This version is based on archive photographs, including the photographs of the extremely well weathered original in Suit Up (viewtopic.php?f=8&t=315&start=10).
For those not familiar with the pattern, it is not really designed for extensive layering as it fits closely and has been likened to wearing a sweater. Above all it’s a very comfortable jacket in use – the hide is lightweight and supple, but surprisingly strong due to the narrow graining.
The main elements of the construction are very similar to the ELC offering, with the exception that the sleeves are constructed in three pieces with a raw, unfinished edge and triple stitching. The colour of lining is more mustard coloured (compared with the darker brown lining of the ELC). The hide is incredible – soft and with a slightly satin sheen (it already looks vintage and I’ll be wearing it in daily to develop this further).
The photographs were taken this morning outside under cloudy November skies (with a bit of drizzle in the air).
For the record, the statistics of the jacket:
Good Wear Leather A-1 (46)
Weight = 1.1 kg
Shoulder width = 19.5” (49.5 cm)
Pit-to-pit = 23.5” (60 cm)
Front length = 24.5” (62 cm)
Back length = 26.5” (67.5 cm) (from top of back panel to bottom of waistband)
Arm length = 25” (63.5 cm) (including knitted cuff)
“Epaulette length” = 7” (17.5 cm)
Collar depth = 2.5” (6 cm)
