Willis and Geiger AN-J-3

[MikeyB-17]

Aero have one on their vintage for sale page-they want a grand for it. It has a thundering great collar, an AAF stamp on the yellow lining (not convinced) and guess what? No label. It's not as nice as this one. I must admit the AN-J-3 mystery has fascinated me for years. Is there one out there somewhere with a military label? And what does it say?
http://www.aeroleatherclothing.com/prod ... hp?id=2734

 

[Roughwear]

It also comes with a steep price and I agree this reconstructed AN-J-3 is a better jacket.

 

[watchmanjimg]

AAF stamp on the yellow lining (not convinced)

I couldn't agree more. I got a good laugh out of that! :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

[STEVE S.]

I'll get the liner in after i get this finished up. figured it would be nice have open to reference while sort this out:

 

[STEVE S.]

a little more done. my hands weren't hurting too bad tonight so did one of the button holes



also attached the lower extension, inner part of the windflap & waistband



also thinking about installing a N.O.S. brass talon zip i have. seems most of these jackets i've seen have this type zip.

 

[Dr H]

this is the more desirable of the styles with the A-2 type windflap and epaulettes, rather than it just being like a G-1 without the mouton collar.

Great work on the Willis and Geiger jacket - it's coming together really well.

It's purely a personal opinion, but I've owned originals in both configurations (none bearing original labels) and for me, the M-422/G-1 type version appeals more. The depth of the waistband on the AN-J-3 means that the tension from the knit pulls the zipper box area open towards the bottom, so it never sits as well as the A-2. I'm also not a great fan of the larger collar and the large tapering epaulettes on the 'A-2' inspired version; it's a bit 'top heavy' as a result.

Having said that, both versions of the jacket are very comfortable to wear - less restrictive about the chest and shoulders than an A-2; less snug around the torso than a M-422A/G-1.

 

[asiamiles]

It's purely a personal opinion, but I've owned originals in both configurations (none bearing original labels) and for me, the M-422/G-1 type version appeals more.

To be honest, I mustn't be that mad about the A-2's windflap as I've sold all the A-2s I've had except for my Buzz SAT, which doesn't have a windflap. I guess with the AN-J-3 then with "navy" front, the jacket simply looks like a M-422 or a G-1 without the mouton collar...and actually I like mouton collars. But with the "air force" front the jacket becomes a genuine hybrid. Though perhaps there lay the problem. The jacket never had an identity of its own, but was actually just a copy of pre-existing designs.

I wonder if the different designs were originally intended for the different services or if the specs were never actually finalised?

 

[Dr H]

Makes sense, Miles - the two variants (front windflap/epaulettes; rear windflap; no epaulettes) do look more like the jackets from their respective services.

I agree, for all the practicality over earlier jackets, the lack of a definite character counts against the AN-J-3.

 

[STEVE S.]

its funny that all the variances were to the front. the only thing consistent with all of them is the navy style back. since this was to be a uniform design for all services, i'm leaning towards the specs not being finalized vs. different specs for different branches. that would have defeated the purpose of a uniform design.

 

[STEVE S.]

finished up a sleeve yesterday & took some comparison shots with the original.

 

[asiamiles]

its funny that all the variances were to the front. the only thing consistent with all of them is the navy style back. since this was to be a uniform design for all services, i'm leaning towards the specs not being finalized vs. different specs for different branches. that would have defeated the purpose of a uniform design.

Yes, did the Air Force guys actually concede that the back of the navy jackets was superior to the A-2, and that slightly larger pockets were more useful? Though in that case I'm surprised they didn't use snaps rather than buttons for the exterior pockets. And why would they get rid of the mouton collar, a feature that the Air Force actually adopted with the B-10. All very puzzling. Indeed, why was there even deemed a need to have the same jacket for both services?

Will we ever know the answers to the many questions pertaining to the AN-J-3? It seems unlikely this far down the road. And I do think much of the interest in this jacket lies in 'the unknown'.

 

[STEVE S.]

maybe Jimmy Hoffa had the answers & took them with him! it is fun to speculate what the answers are.

 

[asiamiles]

Presumably the jacket with the Air Force front doesn't have the inside pocket while the one with the Navy does?

 

[Dr H]

I think that they both had the inside pocket.

 

[STEVE S.]

Presumably the jacket with the Air Force front doesn't have the inside pocket while the one with the Navy does?

correct! the A-2 front has no pocket inside.

 

[asiamiles]

correct! the A-2 front has no pocket inside.

When I had a G-1, that inside pocket was my favourite feature of the jacket.

 

[STEVE S.]

.38 snubbie is a perfect fit!

 

[STEVE S.]

down to the liner, zipper & perimeter top stitching...





original collar:


my collar:

 

[Maverickson]

down to the liner, zipper & perimeter top stitching...





original collar:


my collar:

Hi Steve,

Check this out! Got an explanation from another member straight from J.C. as to how to do this stitch.



"Sew wind flap stitch, which is just inside the lining folded edge, with lining facing you as you sew. Start at top by collar, and go straight down to end of waistband"

Only that method could have possibly been used to have created such a perfect line down that zipper track. So that is a bobbin thread seen here



on that leather shell of the jacket.

Knowing that correct procedure should help you out on you doing your AN-J-3 correctly.

Cheers, Dave

 

[STEVE S.]

kinda what we had figured out, just with a little more detail & confirmation.

have one liner completed & the other almost finished. hope to have these jackets finished up this week.