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At a guess I would say the jacket is the Rough Wear offering by Spearhead. Given the flaky appearance on the shoulders I would say that is additional evidence to my theory. They were discussed in detail some time ago..
The listing refers to three different contracts; however, the 18091 was their initial 'original maker' efforts. Their leathers are somewhat lacking but I have only had very good things to say about their WW1 and WWII kit..
'IF' these guys got hold of the hides that GW and Bill Kelso reject they would be a more realistic proposition. I would put faith in a robust construction standard.
Never had any issues with the stuff. It is just what they are using to make their products. I am shipping a 1944 dated Australian WWII jacket to the guy for a more accurate reproduction of the jackets issued to the 1st Marine Division in WWII in Melbourne. Their green woollen fabric for their WW1 tunics is spot on! Getting a couple as part of the deal.
I would say a $250-$300 final value on this jacket. This would be a good one to adorn with art and leave hanging?
This is spearhead, by the guy Barry Linden. This is their seal brown goatskin, from Pakistan. Pakistan exports some large quantities of goat, and there are some really good ones out there. I have a pair of A-10 gloves from US Authentic, made in Pakistan, of Pakistan goat, the color is identical to Lost World's russet, but the goat and construction is indestructible! The goat gloves creases beautifully too.
In contrast, my Buzz Rickson seal A-10 in goat, although more accurate in proportion, but the thread is coming off all over. Tough goat though, possibly also from Pakistan, and far better color tone.
as an additional note, please don't let the "made in...." cloud your judgment. the Spearhead A-2 are constructed superbly. I personally like the cotton twill, it's not accurate but far more practical. Only if their skin is better...
I am pretty sure this is my former Spearhead A2 that I purchased, tried to shrink down with HWT therapy, which was an abject failure on this piece of crap jacket. I sold to a guy back east. It may have been constructed well, but the leather was awful.
Here is a link to my musings on this jacket. (The first entries are pictures of the first jacket I received, which was not bad, but too big and I had to send back.)
You killed it! Hot water treatment is not in the warranty surely?
I think you could pump polish into any rough spots. These guys make clobber for a living. I think it is purely a case of the hide they use. If they used a better hide and source the right labels they could pump out any contract, with only the accuracy/dollar debate being an issue.
the leather has a base for black color
but then they decided to make them brown.
interestingly enough, it's the same situation with original G-1 of the Monarch contract