What jacket(s) are you wearing at the moment?

[CK90]

When virginal the blackened zippers are an intersting blackish brown color. With use- they start to show the brass color underneath. At first this looks kinda cool but after a while the dark color is gone from the puller and parts of the teeth and it begins to look used and old. Because of my OCD I was always worried about "ruining" the zipper on my literally new RE 7823B. With "c"s you don't have to worry- there's no blackening to come off.

It's hard to see but the blackening is complete on this new old stock IBF 'B':

View attachment 164521

As they age the blackening starts to come off:
View attachment 164523

Finally they look brass colored:


View attachment 164525

Fantastic Zu, now I see, thank you!! I just had to get an answer to this because I have a GW test jacket, Star 55j14, Chrome tanned (proper old school U.S.N goatskin) with a blackened Conmar - that I planned to use as the do it all/adventure/wear in the pouring rain number. In spite of your revelation, knowing it is purely cosmetic and shouldn't affect functioning, I'm going to tear on!

Edit: second thoughts, no I'm not because it's just too nice and also my OCD is condemning me not to. Might have to get my hands on a Ralph Edward's for rain wear myself...

 

[ZuZu]

Fantastic Zu, now I see, thank you!! I just had to get an answer to this because I have a GW test jacket, Star 55j14, Chrome tanned (proper old school U.S.N goatskin) with a blackened Conmar - that I planned to use as the do it all/adventure/wear in the pouring rain number. In spite of your revelation, knowing it is purely cosmetic and shouldn't affect functioning, I'm going to tear on!

Edit: second thoughts, no I'm not because it's just too nice and also my OCD is condemning me not to. Might have to get my hands on a Ralph Edward's for rain wear myself...

Weirdly- I don't have the same problem with the small teeth blackened Conmars. I have one on my mint Star 55J14 and I don't worry about it. It's the big 7823 As and Bs where I like the pristine blackening. If it's a repro I say -have at it!

 

[CK90]

Weirdly- I don't have the same problem with the small teeth blackened Conmars. I have one on my mint Star 55J14 and I don't worry about it. It's the big 7823 As and Bs where I like the pristine blackening. If it's a repro I say -have at it!

Perfecto - Rain wearer/adevnturer it is!

Glad you mentioned it's specifically the 7823's. I have a near mint early 50's L.W Foster 7823, currently with J.C, all original with exception of newly replaced cuffs and replacement (vintage/identical to one removed) Conmar blackened slider. I'll be sure to give that one a thread of it's own when it arrives. That one is for sure getting the babying treatment!

 

[Smithy]

Somewhere in the red oak forrest while the usual doggy walk. Me, my" GERALTON DINER JACKET "and my beloved friend ... Love the colours of the fall. picked up some more mushrooms!

View attachment 164411

That poor old horse of yours is missing a saddle and a bridle

 

[CK90]

Little break from a nice bike ride, cool enough for a Platon Dubow 27798, Viberg 310 boots....

View attachment 156115

Dany, just out of interest if I may ask, when you wear one of your A-2's out for a ride - are you wearing any protective layers underneath?

 

[Kermit3D]

Looks better on you everytime you wear it .

Thank you very much, Burt. I think I've mostly learned to wear pants that work well with this jacket (loose and high-waisted).
And sorry for my very late reply...

With that Dubow you don't need another A-2...

Thanks Greg. This is by far the jacket I wear the most. Comfortable, easy to wear...
I think sooner or later I'll order an A-2 from John.

 

[mulceber]

I think sooner or later I'll order an A-2 from John.

Do it - you won’t regret it.

 

[Kermit3D]

Do it - you won’t regret it.

Yes, this will probably be my next order.
The latest clone combat shown here (Aero, I believe) really caught my eye !

I'd like John's opinion on the chrome-tanned leather... I'm still convinced that the main problem with most A-2 reproductions is their rigidity. I've been watching vintage films again recently, A-2s drape beautifully and seem to behave like silk shirts (I'm exaggerating a bit but you get the idea).
I'd love a very fluid and supple leather, I think that's one of the keys to an accurate A-2.

 

[ZuZu]

Yes, this will probably be my next order.
The latest clone combat shown here (Aero, I believe) really caught my eye !

I'd like John's opinion on the chrome-tanned leather... I'm still convinced that the main problem with most A-2 reproductions is their rigidity. I've been watching vintage films again recently, A-2s drape beautifully and seem to behave like silk shirts (I'm exaggerating a bit but you get the idea).
I'd love a very fluid and supple leather, I think that's one of the keys to an accurate A-2.

I think you're right about this. If that's your main criteria you'll have to go with Horween leathers. They vary a lot but some are very close. The problem is that the Italian russet horsehide JC has now is exactly like many WW2 leathers I've had in texture and graining- with smooth parts, grainy parts and pebbly parts. My favorite original Bronco had this exact leather and it does (the Italian stuf) break down with time and become realistically floppy. The GW Aero 18775 I sold recently had Italian seal horshide and went from stiff and smooth to beautiful grainy and floppy but it took my lending it to my son who put it through 2 years of hard wear to get it that way.

But you're right though- I don't think most originals were stiff at first. There was no 'break in" period for most. So I'd say get the Horween for that and for perfect RW, Aero, and many others but if you want that specific grainy/pebbly/smooth look and the perfect russet color (like some original Broncos and Dubows) go with the Italian. It'll end up the same but it'll take some breaking.

Overdyed Shinki will do the trick too!

 

[CK90]

I think you're right about this. If that's your main criteria you'll have to go with Horween leathers. They vary a lot but some are very close. The problem is that the Italian russet horsehide JC has now is exactly like many WW2 leathers I've had in texture and graining- with smooth parts, grainy parts and pebbly parts. My favorite original Bronco had this exact leather and it does (the Italian stuf) break down with time and become realistically floppy. The GW Aero 18775 I sold recently had Italian seal horshide and went from stiff and smooth to beautiful grainy and floppy but it took my lending it to my son who put it through 2 years of hard wear to get it that way.

But you're right though- I don't think most originals were stiff at first. There was no 'break in" period for most. So I'd say get the Horween for that and for perfect RW, Aero, and many others but if you want that specific grainy/pebbly/smooth look and the perfect russet color (like some original Broncos and Dubows) go with the Italian. It'll end up the same but it'll take some breaking.

Overdyed Shinki will do the trick too!

Nice points Zu. The new Italian HH J.C has is just lovely, I'd love a 16160 made up in it soon.

1 question - why on earth did you sell the 18775? That thing was beautiful.

Actually, 2 questions - are you going to replace it with another GW beauty?

 

[ZuZu]

Nice points Zu. The new Italian HH J.C has is just lovely, I'd love a 16160 made up in it soon.

1 question - why on earth did you sell the 18775? That thing was beautiful.

Actually, 2 questions - are you going to replace it with another GW beauty?

I don't know why. It had a perfect Kwik zipper and it looked great. It's constant turnover- that was a test jacket I pounced on- so hopefully soon I pounce again!

 

[mulceber]

Overdyed Shinki will do the trick too!

I've always heard that shinki was pretty stiff out of the box - is that not the case?

 

[Kermit3D]

I don't think most originals were stiff at first.

Yeah, I totally agree. I was just talking about it in PM with Jan.
I think the original 80 year old A-2s have become much stiffer. IMHO the vegetable tanned leather is very close to what the original A-2s look like NOW. But I'm pretty sure the A-2s in the 40s were actually quite different.

In these photos you can see how supple the leather is and how beautifully it drapes. It's very striking on video.

I'll ask John what he thinks, I'd really like his opinion.

The first cyclist jacket I got from Brice has very fine, extremely supple leather. I'm pretty sure it's chrome-tanned leather because it ages much more slowly than the leather on my other jackets (maybe @Pilot can confirm this). I love the way the leather drapes, and I think it's close to what you'd see on A-2s in the 1940s.

 

[D97x7]

Grey, damp weather, excellent

 

[newagegeezer]

My generic A2 bought 2nd hand in the UK 40+ years ago to use on the mbikes was really soft and supple when bought. Didn't want to wear my originals on the bikes. Never owning a high end repro I can't compare the leather with these being discussed. No idea who made it, where from etc, no label and has a nylon sateen type lining so obviously not made as a clone of "proper" A2s , maybe someone can tell from the photo what if anything it's supposed to be. I also have an American police jacket from the '40s but the leather is so thick , feels bulletproof, that it was never comfortable to wear on the bikes, must have been like armour when the bike cop wore it in.

 

[Griffon_301]

off to my favourite antiques bookstore for a short stroll to catch some fresh air...
ELC house A-2 plus ELC mechanics sweater underneath make for a cosy experience
and before anybody asks, camo silk scarf is from Buzz, Fardin had a few of them on offer and I thought "why not?"

 

[Smithy]

I don't think most originals were stiff at first

They weren't. I've said it on here before but the technical conservator at the musuem I worked at was emphatic that original A-2s would have been much softer when issued. He said leather stiffens noticeably over decades and A-2s are no different.

 

[entertainment]

I've always heard that shinki was pretty stiff out of the box - is that not the case?

All my Shinki jackets were very stiff. Some still are despite lots of wear.