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What jacket(s) are you wearing at the moment?

rob20uk

Well-Known Member
ECL A1 time worn finish. I have no pictures so I’ll post this one instead.

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entertainment

Well-Known Member
ECL A1 time worn finish. I have no pictures so I’ll post this one instead.

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I have always been intrigued by early A-1s like this with the stitching along the edge of the collar. The fabric almost looks more like felt than a ribbed knit. I have looked at a lot of photos and the ribs on the wrist knits are usually clear but they are not visible to me in the collars.
 

rob20uk

Well-Known Member
I have always been intrigued by early A-1s like this with the stitching along the edge of the collar. The fabric almost looks more like felt than a ribbed knit. I have looked at a lot of photos and the ribs on the wrist knits are usually clear but they are not visible to me in the collars.
The A1 collar is under the parachute harness. The collar that looks felt is just a normal shirt worn under the jacket.
 

CombatWombat

Well-Known Member
Me in my Orchard made USCG G1 (the seller didn't tell me it was USCG and fudged that it was a USN jacket....jokes on him since the leather on this is amazingly beautiful for cowhide and the collar feels like Moulton)
Unfortunately the weather here has nosedived this morning so my AVI M422 won't be getting a showing.
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B-Man2

Well-Known Member
I know we’ve gotten into this before, but I can’t find the old posts.
Here’s the jacket. Very squared-off shoulders. I’m thinking maybe Martin Lane? However I don’t see the rectangular stitching around the hanger tab, and the tab sits quite high. Appreciate any help.

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Hi Nick
While I can’t offer much in the way of advice on your jacket, I do have a 69 Martin Lane that you can use for a comparison . Here ya go !
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entertainment

Well-Known Member
Could well be that he spent so much time with it under the parachute harness that the knits felted.
Yes, that certainly could be true. But would a pilot typically keep his collar under the harness? That does not seem very comfortable.

Do we have a copy of the A-1 specification? The 37J1 specification 3.(e) says: "Wristlets, collar, and bottom of jacket shall be a closely knitted wool worsted." Nothing about ribbing there. Ribbing makes sense at the wrists and the bottom of the jacket, but the case for the collar is less compelling. Later jackets like the A-2 and M-422 did not have collars that stretched. Perhaps there was a later revision to the A-1 specification that required ribbing but the early spec was similar to 37J1. There is more variation in the design of the A-1 than the A-2 so differences like this are plausible. The only A-1 collars that look felted to me have visible edge stitching and a D-shaped (rather than closed/circular) button loop.

Perhaps the resolution on this photo is just not high enough, but:

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B-Man2

Well-Known Member
The collar above may be a variation of what we know as a traditional A1 collar . It certainly does look like the collar is lined with something resembling felt. You can definitely see the top stitching at the collar edges, which to me indicates that a fabric is sewn to the inside of the collar. Maybe you guys have stumbled onto a variation of the A1 jacket and collar.
 
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