The Mighty A-2: A Guide to the Army Air Forces’ Leather Flying Jacket

[mulceber]

Cable 27753 Example No. 2:

More photos…

 

[mulceber]

Star Sportswear Mfg. Co. W535-AC-28557 42-18245-P​

Contract Awarded: 18 May 1942 (EA2G plate 28)
Date of Completion: unknown
Quantity: 30,000 jackets (EA2G plate 28)
Leather type: horsehide/cowhide - the use of cow was verified by DNA test in Eastman’s A-2 guide (EA2G plate 28)
Stitch color: red
Zipper(s): Any that were current in early 1942. The following have been observed. They are listed in approximate order of the frequency with which they have been encountered:

• Talon M-41 nickel
• Talon M-42 nickel
• Talon M-39 nickel
• Crown M-42 dull
• Conmar M-40 gilt
• Talon M-42 gilt with a straight pull
• Talon M-42 nickel with a straight pull

General Comments: The Star contract is unusual, in that it had two different spec labels - one that listed the contract number, 28557, and one that listed the order number - 42-18245-P (EA2G plate 28). Chapman has noted that, in his observation, most of the jackets that have the contract number on the spec. label also have double-barrel eyelets on the collar hooks, while those jackets with the order number have brass eyelets.

Identifying/Distinguishing Details:

• The collar has a distinctive curve to it. Bill Kelso’s write-up for the contract aptly describes it as “‘crescent moon’ shaped”.
• Triangle stitching on the pocket body, although the orientation of the triangle varies.
• Sharply-scalloped pocket flaps
• Rotated inset sleeves
• Lower sleeves are rather snug
• Often dark brown knits, although the typical mid-brown seen on other A-2s is common as well.
• The leather backing reinforcement for the pocket snaps is a square shape, where most A-2 jackets are semi-circular.
• The stitching on zipper box on Star Sportswear A-2 jackets forms a full rectangle, where on most other contracts, the stitch goes off the edge of the leather and onto the knit. The aim on Star's part seems to have been to protect the knits from being damaged by the sewer. This is a feature Star A-2s have in common with Monarchs and several of the early A-2 makers (SAT, HLB, and all the Aeros prior to 1939).

Star Example No. 1:

 

[mulceber]

Star Example No. 2:

More photos…

 

[mulceber]

S. H. Knopf Mfg. Co. W535-AC-28558 42-18246-P​

Contract Awarded: 18 May 1942 (EA2G plate 29)
Date of Completion: unknown
Quantity: 10,000 jackets (EA2G plate 29)
Leather type: horsehide/cowhide
Stitch color: a lighter, almost russet brown
Zipper(s): Mostly Talon M-41 nickel, although the Conmar M-40 gilt has been attested.
General Comments:

• The manufacturer is not listed on the spec. label for this contract. This identification is confirmed by the similarities of this contract to civilian A-2 jackets manufactured by Knopf (GW). It was first identified as Knopf in Eastman’s A-2 guide (EA2G plate 29).

Identifying/Distinguishing Details:

• Nickel snaps without any sort of blackening or treatment to protect them from corrosion (Chapman). While this is not totally unique to the contract (HLB’s has similar press studs), it is both unusual and noticeable.
• The reverse of the collar snaps in the body have brown paint on them (Chapman).
• Both ends of the epaulets are folded under the seam to which they’re attached (Chapman).
• Likewise, the pocket flaps are attached by folding over both layers of leather and sewing through both of them, instead of cutting the underside panel short and only folding over the outer panel of the pocket (Chapman).

Knopf Example No. 1:

 

[mulceber]

Knopf Example No. 1 continued:

More photos…

 

[mulceber]

Poughkeepsie Leather Coat Co. W535-AC-28560 42-18248P​

Contract Awarded: 18 May 1942 (EA2G plate 30)
Date of Completion: unknown
Quantity: 50,000 jackets (EA2G plate 30)
Leather type: horsehide/cowhide. Eastman identified it as cowhide based on its appearance (EA2G plate 30). Chapman disagrees and thinks it was horsehide. Eastman does state that it is extremely difficult to discern horsehide from cowhide leather, so differing opinions are not a surprise, and this is likely the best example as it is from the top two A-2 experts. Please also note that Mr Eastman had the British Leather Confederation attempt to discern horsehide from cowhide using an electron microscope and was unable to do so, so attempting to detect the difference by eye has an inherent high degree of uncertainty. Multiple owners of original Poughkeepsies have commented that the hide seems thinner than on most A-2 jackets from the time, although the specifications for all three hide types required the same thickness specification (0.035 +/- 0.010”).
Stitch color: light olive drab (Chapman)
Zipper(s): The following have been observed. They are listed in approximate order of the frequency with which they have been encountered:

• Talon M-41 gilt
• Talon M-42 nickel
• Talon M-41 nickel

General Comments:
Identifying/Distinguishing Details:
This contract can be quite difficult to identify, and Acme Depot notes that it “is fairly generic with no truly unique qualities.” (Acme Depot) Chapman, meanwhile, notes that in many respects it resembles an Aero:

• Big, angular pocket flaps with mild scalloping (Acme Depot).
• Use of mustard-colored lining (Acme Depot).

But the bottom pocket corners are rounder than is normally seen on an Aero, and the x-box stitching on the epaulets is neater. The biggest stand-out feature is the use of gold-colored Talon M-41 zippers, which are not seen on any other contract, although plenty of Poughkeepsies were made without this unique zipper.

Poughkeepsie Example No. 1:

 

[mulceber]

Poughkeepsie Example No. 2:

More photos…

 

[mulceber]

I. Spiewak & Sons Co., Inc. W535-AC-28820 42-18776P​

Contract Awarded: 18 May 1942 (EA2G plate 31)
Date of Completion: unknown
Quantity: 25,000 jackets (EA2G plate 31)
Leather type: goatskin
Stitch color: light brown
Zipper(s): Primarily Crowns, but others are possible. The following have been observed. They are listed in approximate order of the frequency with which they have been encountered:

• Crown M-42 nickel
• Crown M-41 nickel
• Talon M-43; seen on another Spiewak here, so likely not a replacement

General Comments:

• Isaac Spiewak, through his relatives, was also the owner of United Sheeplined and Bronco Mfg. Co. Bronco was run by his younger sons, Pete and Murry Spiewak, while United Sheeplined was run by his son-in-law and the son-in-law’s cousin (Chapman).
• Spiewak is the only original A-2 manufacturer that is still in business.
• The actor Clark Gable wore a Spiewak during his service with 8th Air Force in the European Theater.

Identifying/Distinguishing Details:

• Collar comes to sharp points (Acme Depot).
• Shoulder seams underneath the epaulets, as opposed to behind them (Acme Depot).
• Simple, triangular pocket flaps (Acme Depot).
• Rotated inset sleeves.
• Goatskin
• All of these details are very similar to Doniger’s contract, but what distinguishes the Spiewak is the almost exclusive use of Crown zippers and the use of ring snaps.
• Most Spiewak A-2s were made with epaulets that were about a quarter inch (half a centimeter) too long for the shoulders they were attached to, causing them to bunch up. That said, this is commonly seen on many original A-2s and is not unique to Spiewaks.
• Spiewak zippers were normally installed so that a very little zipper tape lay exposed between the teeth and the leather of the chest panel.
• The male collar hook is frequently installed much closer to the leading edge of the storm flap than is common on other A-2 contracts.

 

[mulceber]

Spiewak Example No. 1:

 

[mulceber]

Spiewak Example No. 2:

More photos…

 

[mulceber]

United Sheeplined Clothing Co. W535-AC-28821 42-18777-P​

Contract Awarded: 18 May 1942 (EA2G plate 32)
Date of Completion: unknown
Quantity: 25,000 jackets (EA2G plate 32)
Leather type: horsehide/cowhide - the use of cow was verified by DNA test in Eastman’s A-2 guide (EA2G plate 32), although horse was likely used as well.
Stitch color: olive drab (Chapman)
Zipper(s): Any that were current in early 1942. The following have been observed. They are listed in approximate order of the frequency with which they have been encountered:

• Crown M-42 dull
• Conmar M-40 gilt
• Talon M-41 nickel
• Talon M-39 nickel

General Comments:

• Isaac Spiewak, through his relatives, was also the owner of United Sheeplined and Bronco Mfg. Co. Bronco was run by his younger sons, Pete and Murry Spiewak, while United Sheeplined was run by his son-in-law and the son-in-law’s cousin (Chapman).

Identifying/Distinguishing Details:

• Beveled pocket corners. This is a trait shared only with the Bronco contract and the vanishingly-rare H.L.B. contract (Acme Depot).
• Shoulder seam is underneath the epaulets, not behind them. This distinguishes the United Sheeplined jackets from Bronco (Acme Depot).

United Sheeplined Example No. 1:

 

[mulceber]

United Sheeplined Example No. 2:

More photos…

 

[mulceber]

Bronco Mfg. Corp. W535-AC-29191 42-19172P​

Contract Awarded: 18 May 1942 (EA2G plate 33)
Date of Completion: unknown
Quantity: 59,000 jackets (EA2G plate 33)
Leather type: horsehide/cowhide & goatskin (Chapman)
Stitch color: light, yellowish olive drab or medium brown
Zipper(s): Crown M-42 nickel appears overwhelmingly, but the following have been observed as well:

• Talon M-42 nickel with a straight pull
• Crown M-41 nickel - possibly a replacement slider

General Comments:

• This contract was worn by Col. Gale Cleven of the 100th BG. He can be seen wearing it in a number of photos.
• Isaac Spiewak, through his relatives, was also the owner of United Sheeplined and Bronco Mfg. Co. Bronco was run by his younger sons, Pete and Murry Spiewak, while United Sheeplined was run by his son-in-law and the son-in-law’s cousin (Chapman).

Identifying/Distinguishing Details:

• Bronco’s distinguishing features:
  • Beveled pocket corners. This is a trait shared only with the United Sheeplined contract and the vanishingly-rare H.L.B. contract (Acme Depot).
  • Shoulder seam is behind the epaulets, not underneath them. This is similar to H.L.B’s contract, but different from the much more common United Sheeplined contract (Acme Depot).
  • Hanger loop frequently attached with bartacks. No other contractor did this (Acme Depot).
• Commonly seen in russet and a medium seal brown.
• Nickel zippers, as opposed to Bronco’s second contract, which have only been seen with gilt zippers.

Bronco 19172P Example No. 1:

 

[mulceber]

Bronco 19172P Example No. 1 continued:

Bronco 19172P Example No. 2:

 

[mulceber]

Bronco 19172P Example No. 2 continued:

More photos…

 

[mulceber]

Perry Sportswear Inc. W535-AC-27618 42-16175-P​

Contract Awarded: 23 May 1942 (EA2G plate 34)
Date of Completion: unknown
Quantity: 50,000 jackets (EA2G plate 34)
Leather type: horsehide/cowhide
Stitch color: reddish brown
Zipper(s): Conmar M-40 gilt appear overwhelmingly, but the Talon M-42 nickel has been observed as well.
General Comments:
Identifying/Distinguishing Details:

• Perry Contract Features:
  • Small collar with rounded points
  • Collar stand used on all contracts.
  • The underside of the storm flap on many Perry jackets is made up of three panels (Acme Depot).
  • “Soft and shallow curves to pocket flaps, with stitch lines which are spaced farther than typical from the edge of the flap.” (Acme Depot)
  • Rectangular reinforcement stitching on the pockets (Acme Depot)
  • No Perry has been found with a pocket tag (GW)
• Most commonly seen in a medium russet, although a more chocolate-colored seal is attested as well.

Perry 16175-P Example No. 1:

 

[mulceber]

Perry 16175-P Example No. 1 continued:

Perry 16175-P Example No. 2:

More photos…

 

[mulceber]

Aero Leather Clothing Co. W535-AC-28819 42-18775-P​

Contract Awarded: 25 May 1942 (EA2G plate 35)
Date of Completion: unknown
Quantity: 50,000 jackets (EA2G plate 35)
Leather type: horsehide/cowhide
Stitch color: olive drab or medium brown (Chapman)
Zipper(s): Any that were current in early 1942. The following have been observed. They are listed in approximate order of the frequency with which they have been encountered:

• Talon M-41 nickel (some with a nickel pull tab and brass slider that was plated in nickel; one also had a pull tab that was made of brass and had been painted nickel)
• Talon M-42 nickel
• Conmar M-40 gilt
• Talon M-39 bright nickel
• Kwik M-40 nickel fantail
• Crown M-42 dull

General Comments:

• Last A-2 contract by Aero Leather Clothing Co.

Identifying/Distinguishing Details:

• Aero contract features:
  • Bottom pocket corners were frequently more squared-off than other contractors.
  • Relatively narrow epaulets (Acme Depot)
  • The x-stitch on the epaulets outer edge of the shoulders is off-center, so that it appears to go off the edge of the shoulder. There are other makers that do this too, like Perry and Cable, but it is a detail worth noticing.
  • Angular pocket flaps, normally rather wide, with some gentle scalloping.
  • Triangular reinforcement stitching on the pockets.
  • Ring snaps - seen on all of Aero’s contracts from mid-1940 onward.
  • Collar snap backs are concealed by the lining (Acme Depot)
• No collar stand, in contrast to pre-1941 Aero “Inc.” company contracts.
• More commonly seen with brown knits, rather than the classic Aero red, although some have been seen with red knits (Acme Depot).
• Mustard-colored lining (Acme Depot)

Aero 18775-P Example No. 1:

 

[mulceber]

Aero 18775-P Example No. 1 continued:

Aero 18775-P Example No. 2:

 

[mulceber]

Aero 18775-P Example No. 2 continued:

More photos…