So, what do we prefer, old A-1 or new?

[Dr H]

John bounced over some images of a recent A-1 test jacket that he produced and, despite the figuring of the recent capeskin, I was really won over by the detailing.

There are several A-1 patterns that tend to come up in the period photos (not as well documented as later WW2 jackets), but the ones that have consistently appealed to me are the early 1920s versions with buttons to the lower waistband and pockets sitting more closely to the central line. The pocket flaps need to grow on me a little (as I do like the more scalloped profile).

Although it's not always that clear from the period photo, the collar knit is less fussy with a single button fastening as you see here.

For comparison, check out the images of the more conventional, production version (http://www.goodwearleather.com/pages/gw ... ages1.html).

The sleeves will need a slight shortening as ever for me, but the knits are the more golden colouring that complement the hide/pattern well in my view.

Once I have it in hand, I'll be selling my current GW A-1 (size 44-46) and I'll review it in due course.

 

[Andrew]

I'm not crazy about the grain pattern of new cape either (but this is only based on a small sample) but this jacket is fantastic. Love all the details. Any idea how long John wore it to get that broken in look? It certainly does capture the essence of the fitted jackets in period photos.

 

[Dr H]

Yes Andrew, the cape isn't my favourite either as I've said elsewhere. This purchase is a trade off in the best tradition: this pattern in the older domestic cape would be my ideal, but that's not going to happen so pragmatism wins out.

John (and Mark for that matter) both aver that the grain calms down and dulls quickly with mild water treatment (spray, wear until dry). I don't think that this one has been worn for very long - JC will possibly comment.

Personally, I find that I'm increasingly drawn to the cut and drape of the older jackets - John Jeter's (CBI) Werber '36 is a great example of the A-2 and I was recently weighing up whether to go for a SAT.

The waist buttons and the unfussy collar sold this one to me.

 

[CBI]

I'll bet the new cape will grow on you!

 

[Dr H]

I'm set in my ways, but the I'll come around eventually! :lol:

 

[John Lever]

I love the jacket. Are the upper seams on the arms the open type I can't quite see from the pics ?
Having seen the Cape samples I was under-whelmed, but it does work when seen all together.
The pocket flaps are mad but great.

 

[Dr H]

Hi John
Yes, it is a triple stitched, raw edged seam as per JC's normal pattern.
I agree - the pocket flaps are the bits that I need to work on (they'll look less stark when they crumple a bit in use).

 

[ButteMT61]

This is my favorite A-1 for all the details above.
Single button collar.
Buttons all the way down.
Stitching and pieces in the arms.
You guys got me all worried about the hide, but looking at those pics, we see a jacket that ages wonderfully.
Me thinks everyone outta rethinks

 

[bretron]

From an aesthetic standpoint I think I prefer this test jacket for all the reasons already mentioned. Slightly more simplistic in design. Is the drape about the same?

 

[Dr H]

I haven't got the jacket in hand yet (and I don't have any experience with the other production jacket), but JC will be able to comment.
The weight of the cape is the same for the two jackets and the drape of the two appear to be the same from the images on the website when placed alongside each other.

 

[ButteMT61]

A Mr. I don't like the new hide. What changed your mind?

 

[Dr H]

That's 'Dr I don't like the new hide' if you don't mind, Sir... :lol:
It's still a risk, it's not my favourite cape by a long stretch. The best cape IMHO is on the jacket going Down Under (Doni AN-J-3), but I had another e-mail exchange with JC, further consideration of the wear; loss of grain/gloss with water/wear, discussion with others who have seen jackets made up in it.
Who knows? It might be up for sale again if I don't like it in the flesh, but I'm a sucker for detailing. I really like the 'usual' GW A-1 pattern, but having owned/sold a fair number of A-1s, I found myself thinking 'if only it had the extra buttons or the pockets closer together'.
Then this one appears with all that, throw in a test jacket price and I'm up for a challenge.
Oh well, A-1 sickness strikes again... :roll:

 

[Skip]

The best cape IMHO is on the jacket going Down Under (Doni AN-J-3)

Stay tuned, pics will be posted...

 

[Dr H]

Excellent, looking forward to seeing them, Matt.

 

[Skip]

For what its worth Ian, and I'm by no means an expert, the new with those knits is rather pleasing to the eye. and the grain gives it a 'tougher' looking appearance as if its meant to be worn and worn hard.

 

[Marv]

To be honest, I prefer ELC's A1 and I am not keen on the grainy capeskin either as it looks like goatskin in my opinion plus I am not a fan of the raw edges either.

After trying on a ELC A1 (46) at Duxford this year, I was impressed on how well the feel, look and drape of the jacket (better on than off) seemed to suit.

 

[Dr H]

I know what you mean Paul, I'm banking on the grain relaxing considerably with some work on my part, although I still want to see some areas of more pronounced grain as per the older cape that I mentioned on the AN-J-3.

I've had three ELC A-1 jackets over the years (and this will be my fourth GW A-1) and it is a really excellent product - my last a 44 (recently sold) was really developing some character. The drape is great, especially when it starts to break in and wrinkle after a rain shower .

My only quibble is that there is a bit of the 'made by robot' quality to them - it's intangible, but each one looks near identical (great for QC, but a bit bland unless you wear them hard and regularly). The details are also just a bit off if I want to be really demanding (pocket size/placement, button positioning, depth of waist/collar knit), which given Gary has an original to hand is surprising. On the other hand it might be a conscious decision: not everybody likes the pockets so close to the centre line, or a shorter body/longer waist knit as it does look less flattering.

The triple stitched raw seam, on the other hand, is something that I do prefer on the GW (the rolled seam is very neat and tailored, but it is a bit mannered and the stitching on the ELC can sometimes miss picking up the cloth/knit as a result).

The ELC knits though... :roll:

 

[Dr H]

Well, my test jacket early pattern A-1 arrived this morning and I've a chance to wear it this afternoon (layered with a sleeveless sweater) in temperatures on/below zero C.

It'll need to lose an inch from the sleeves (no, this one won't go to Aero for alterations - I've gone off the 'one sleeve longer than the other' look :roll: ), but this aside it's a grand fit for an 'off the rack' jacket.

First impressions are very favourable indeed - the drape and weight of the hide is very good much more substantial when lined and made up (compared with the sample). I've worked on one of the pocket flaps and the grain is relaxing and becoming less pronounced so I'm confident that with effort it'll look the part (a little more like the ELC cape).

The tailoring is excellent (very similar to the quality of my old GW A-1 in Italian cape that is with Cam in Canada) with very confident stitching and triple stitched raw seams. The materials are high quality (great lining - more like silk than cotton - horn buttons, machine finished button holes, thick knits. The pattern has been subtly improved too - the depth of the waistband is fuller and the profile of the collar knit more exaggerated - deeper back/shallower front as per the originals.

The pocket flaps are not that unusual in the flesh - they're already beginning to become more scalloped with wear. Personally, I really like the closely placed pockets (which are smaller than the previous pattern) and the buttons rather than snaps, but I might be in the minority here.

Images to follow when time and the weather allow.

 

[John Lever]

Having tried in on at the pub tonight I can say it is a lovely jacket. I was prepared to dislike the Capeskin, but it is superb. Ian now realises it's a good idea not to alter jackets unless you really have to....he can sell it to me !
The pockets are a really nice touch as are the wider knits and single button neck closure.
Does it come in Seal ?

 

[Dr H]

You and your skinned seals
The jacket is very fine, but the cape is not a patch on your Menlo...
Good to see you John