Short A2 for Warm Climate

[Brettafett]

I've got both and they are both good jackets, but different.

Obviously Platons Dubow is high-end, and on another level of authenticity.
www.vintageleatherjackets.org/threads/ja-dubow-27798-platon-a-2-jacket-review-and-pics.22180/

My AVI Bronco 2019 is a 42 and fits great. I'll always want a bit more length in the sleeves, but its such an easy, light and comfy jacket to wear. Even with all my high-ends I love this jacket for summer.
www.vintageleatherjackets.org/threads/avi-lthr-bronco-updated-2019-version.22571/
For an AVI I'd go with your regular chest size and then up-size. So if you are a 40" chest, go for a 42". Same with Platon's Dubow.

AVI has an original WW2 Bronco they used to copy the pattern for their jacket, so its pretty good in general and fits like an original should per size. I had an original A-2 in a 42 that fit well, and my AVI as well as my BK's and Platon Dubow are all 42 (Eastman and GWs weirdly enough have to go 40 or 40 long)
All the other lower priced A-2 makers took their 'Bronco' pattern from AVI's version.

 

[Smithy]

The reviews I’ve read on AVI and US Authentic say they’re both nice entry level jackets with modern sizing, i.e., made for those more like 6’ as Smithy mentioned rather than for those under 5’8”. I’d check the sizing before purchase. The Dubow would be a better fit (https://jadubowmfg.com/a-2-jackets/)

Actually the AVI Bronco is patterned from an original size 44 Bronco at least the first iterations of them were. So a size 44 AVI is directly patterned from a size 44 original that they took apart. The other sizes have the patterns scaled up or down.

My Bronco fits just like an original, wide in the shoulders and quite trim in the torso. I'd imagine anyone with a waist bigger than a 34'' would not fit it. Not modern sized at all.

 

[superpacker]

Yes, length seems like it will be an issue for me. The AVI sight stresses that they use a traditional, read slim pattern, but that seems separate from length. US Auth seems to be the same for Length. That’s what prompted my original interest in G&B. The color pallet for their stock current issue A2 seems a bit bland (leather, liner and knits all a dark brown almost black) but it’s pretty accurate, they offer a short length as a stock feature, and I could size down to offset billowing

 

[mulceber]

I think at the budget you’re looking at, a Five Star Donniger is your best bet. Custom sizing, $200-$300 price range, pretty good accuracy for the money. I really don’t think a G&B will be anything like a close approximation of a vintage a-2.

 

[superpacker]

So the comments have been awesome at addressing the budget and heat. What about length? For a first (maybe only) go around, I don’t want to have to do lots of back and forth or custom. Of the makers recommended, do any of these tend to run shorter off the rack?

 

[33-1729]

So the comments have been awesome at addressing the budget and heat. What about length? For a first (maybe only) go around, I don’t want to have to do lots of back and forth or custom. Of the makers recommended, do any of these tend to run shorter off the rack?

A Dubow at <$500 and a Five Star Donniger at $200 have been highlighted as both vintage fits (shorter length). Check the measurements on the site to get correct size. Don’t overthink it.

J. A. DUBOW MFG. CO.

Type A-2 Jackets

www.fivestarleather.us

 

[mulceber]

Agreed with what 33-1729 said. Here are the measurements for the different sizes of Dubow. In terms of back length, you want to measure from the base of your neck to the bottom of your belt loops (on modern, low-waist pants). Best though to focus on the pit-to-pit, shoulders, and sleeve length, and not worry too much about the back length.

size 40
pit to pit 21.5
shoulders 17.5
back 24.25
sleeve 25.25

size 42
pit to pit 22.5
shoulders 18
back 24.5
sleeve 25.5

size 44
pit to pit: 23.5
shoulders: 18.5
back: 24.75
sleeve: 25.75

Size 46
pit to pit 24.5
shoulders 19
back 25
sleeve 26

Size 48
pit to pit 25.5
shoulders 19.5
back 25.25
sleeve 26.25

 

[superpacker]

Thanks! Not trying to complicate things, But wasn’t familiar with the term vintage fit, I thought I may just refer to the slimness. Those are helpful thank you.

 

[mulceber]

You’re right that it’s partly slimness, but back in the day, everyone was wearing their pants up to their belly buttons, so they had a different idea of what counted as a good length.

 

[superpacker]

And that’s the missing piece I wasn’t considering! Makes sense.

 

[Brettafett]

What is your chest and weight...? Perhaps we can recommend a size?
Best would be to measure a jacket you have and compare. Even a denim jacket helps, but would not be super accurate comparison obviously, but a good start.
Bear in mind, from my experience sleeves tend to shorten slightly with wear by 0.5 to 1". This is not so apparent with goatskin, but is a factor when considering a horsehide Dubow.
Lengths can be very subjective. Personally, I prefer a bit of length, so when I lift my arms, the cuffs don't ride up to my elbows. I like my sleeves to sit about an inch above my wrists (when the jacket is new), standing relaxed arms at my side. Thats my ideal.
Platon only does std sizes, so you need to find a jacket to measure up and then check in here, and make a call. I'd size on up on their fit guide. Im 5"11, 160 pounds, trim and athletic, wear a 42...
AVI is also std sizes, a 42 fits me very well, lengths aren't bad either (although I'd have loved another inch on the sleeves). Such an easy, light and comfy jacket.
Five Star will customise to your heart's content. So, if you go the Doniger route, you can request measurements and add or remove length if you want.

 

[superpacker]

I’m 5’7”
39” chest (pit to pit 20.5 on suit jacket)
170 lbs
Sleeve is just over 24” on my suit jacket (if measuring correctly).
Suit coat is usually a 38 short. Although this weight and chest measurement is the highest I’ve ever been so my 38S suit jacket is fitting closer than normal (not looking bad, but I used to not fill it out as well as most off the rack suit makers start at 38S). I don’t mind a jacket being snug and trim, looks clean that you way, just not fashion tight, and while I’ll primarily wear it over just a shirt or T-shirt, it may be nice to occasionally be able to wear a sweatshirt under it, ala McQueen

 

[mulceber]

Can you measure the shoulders on the suit jacket? (Shoulder season to shoulder seam)

 

[Brettafett]

At 5'10/ 5'11, 160 and 39.5" chest, I wear a 40 long suit jacket (sometimes a 40 fits fine).

I'd say:
Platon's Dubow - size 40 would be good, with a touch of room for a light sweater. I don't think lengths would be an issue. Dubows are funny, tend to run a bit short, but still comfy. Probably fit you like I like my 42 long Dubows to fit me.
AVI A-2 - size 40 should fit well, as above
Five Star - Not sure how Shawn works his sizes, probably best to send him measurements and fit preference. Likely a 40... I'd hazard 17.5" to 18" shoulders (depending on build and body type) and 21.5 to 22" pit to pit. Lengths, maybe 24"...

I would think that a 40 regular would be a good fit, with a bit of room to spare. Not baggy at all, but not super trim. Also, regs the horsehide Dubow, size 40 lengths would give a bit of leeway for slight shortening of sleeves after wear.
(creases form under the arm pits and at the elbows, causes a slight reduction in perceived length by about 0.5" to 1" depending....)

 

[mulceber]

Yeah, a 40 is my guess as well.

 

[superpacker]

Wow, I’ve never been a 40 in my life so glad it was discussed. Is a 40 gonna have even more length than a 38? Would you recommend the same for US Authentic or is that one of the “size down” makers?

 

[mulceber]

A bit (a quarter inch), yes, but most people go a size up for A-2s. My chest is 40 inches and I wear a size 42 Dubow.

 

[Brettafett]

Yes, generally... for a given pattern, a 40 would have a touch more length than a 38. How much? Each contract, pattern or maker (grading) may be slightly different... 0.5 to 1 inch perhaps.
Ideally you'd find a jacket that fits well and measure it (there's a great 'How to measure' guide somewhere on this forum. Then compare that with the makers' size/ measurements tables.

What I can tell you, is as far as Platon's and BK's A-2s go, with a 39.5" chest, I could not wear a 40! I tried... 42 long is perfect for me (with a touch of room for a light sweater, although I tend to wear T-shirts under).
An AVI size 40 was a squeeze, not comfortable... and short on me. AVI size 42 fits well (as I said, I'd prefer longer sleeves, but these are based on an original jacket graded down).

As far as original WW2 A-2s go, I can barely fit a size 40 and they are always too short. 42s fit fine, but still tend to be a touch short for my liking. A size 44 in some contracts (Perry, 1756, etc actually fit me a bit better)...
Some contracts are a bit longer than others. So the above jackets are sized pretty well.

 

[mulceber]

may be slightly different... 0.5 to 1 inch perhaps.

I'm pretty sure it would be exactly a quarter inch though, because if you look at the numbers posted above, the back length increases by a quarter inch with each size.

 

[33-1729]

Wow, I’ve never been a 40 in my life so glad it was discussed. Is a 40 gonna have even more length than a 38? Would you recommend the same for US Authentic or is that one of the “size down” makers?

Click on the size guidance postcard and read the how to - https://jadubowmfg.com/a-2-jackets/

The pit-to-pit size you mentioned in post #52 above (20.5”) is small for a modern 38” suit jacket. Is the 38S" mostly for length?

To get the right fit you’ll need to consider your length, waist, chest, and weight among other items. The Dubow sizing link above is a clever measurement scheme to account for the different vintage fit and check them all. Let us know what size it says for you.