Sheeley Built USN Jacket

[leper-colony]

Hi, The first jacket that I have slated to do using these same hides is a Monarch M-422. Only having recently had those labels made.
View attachment 78540

My AN-J-3A model Monarch will have to wait.

Cheers, Dave

 

[ausreenactor]

Patience Grasshopper.

 

[Maverickson]

Hi All,

By chance this week I am doing a retrofit. In this case, a late 1930s grommet zip horsehide civilian jacket. Apparently, once purchased found needing the sleeves extended slightly. This same customer asked that I create a period looking buttoned set of cuffs to facilitate his needs. In the end, full filling the needs for the extend sleeve length and upgrading the simple original cuffs . Likewise, this same work gave me a ready example to follow up with on the look of a gimped verses non gimped keyhole buttonhole.

To begin it is most difficult to get a perfect stitch bundle with a Reece 101 using leather verses fabric to create keyhole buttonhole. I say this because of the differences in density between hides while fabric remains a constant. Once a machine is set up for fabric the pull up does not change & much unlike leather. Not to mention, the most difficult leather to keyhole is worn vintage hide and exactly what you all are about to see.

Directly below are cuffs prior to doing the keyhole work. That pattern seen was taken from an original 1930s's 1st generation zip jacket to match the existing. Bare in mind, this is a retrofit and beat up horse hide donor material is order of the day.

Retro Fitting Cuffs

• Maverickson
• Jul 25, 2018

This next pic is the same cuffs seen above but with fresh gimped (utilizing a third thread and more difficult proceedure) keyhole buttonholes. Close to what I have seen done with high end vintage work & to what the Japanese jacket builders are currently putting out. Exactly what I have set out to duplicate !

Keyholed Retro Cuffs

• Maverickson
• Jul 25, 2018

Next a close up of one of one of the same gimped keyhole buttonholes seen above.

Close Up Gimped Keyhole Buttonhole

• Maverickson
• Jul 25, 2018

Since I was set up, it was easy enough to remove the gimp thread to create a non gimped keyhole buttonhole example. Note, once a change is made the machine wants to be immediately readjusted. You can see that this example of the non gimped keyhole buttonhole is slightly less bold. Very close to the same weak example Ken pulled up from youtube.

Non Gimped Keyhole Buttonhole

• Maverickson
• Jul 25, 2018

Bare in mind, I have modified my machine to allow my Reece machine to use a larger size thread. Thus create the most bold keyhole buttonhole possible . Otherwise, my provided example of that non gimped keyhole button would have looked even more diminished.


Cheers, Dave

Hi All,

In an effort to increase effeciency I recently retired my Reece 101. My new machine requires far less adjusting between hides and gives a more consistant results.

As seen on a couple of my latest builds:

Monarch pocket assembly

One of my lined goat hide Sheeley Bros. button up cossack type jackets.

Goat hide and horse hide non lined shawl collared button ups.

Always aspiring toward upgrading my work.

Look forward to more.

Cheers, Dave

 

[JonnyCrow]

Hi All,

In an effort to increase effeciency I recently retired my Reece 101. My new machine requires far less adjusting between hides and gives a more consistant results.

As seen on a couple of my latest builds:

Monarch pocket assembly

View attachment 96055


One of my lined goat hide Sheeley Bros. button up cossack type jackets.

View attachment 96069


View attachment 96053

Goat hide and horse hide non lined shawl collared button ups.

View attachment 96073
View attachment 96077
View attachment 96061


Always aspiring toward upgraing my work.

Look forward to more.

Cheers, Dave

Lovely jackets Dave

 

[B-Man2]

Amazing work Dave . Well done !

 

[Micawber]

Nice! Do we get to see any new machine porn Dave?

 

[Lord Flashheart]

Very nice indeed. Always good to see a real bit of artistry Dave