Question about Irvin-type jackets' leather

[dbtk44]

I wanted to throw the question out here, for anybody who knows a bit about Irvin type sheepskin jackets, or has one they can take a look at.

I believe the USAAF B3 and B6 type sheepskin jacket is simply sheepskin that the flesh side is dyed (or basically "painted"), and then topcoated for a slight "sheen". The pair of B3 types I own seem to be this way. Maybe the flesh side is smoothed a bit during the tanning process, but....that's about it, just simply a sheep hide.

However, Irvins appear, to me anyway, to be a top grain leather jacket, with a sheepskin lining. Is this basically correct....or are they a highly polished sheepskin flesh side? Anybody here have an Irvin or Irvin-type that can shed some light on this?

I believe, that if the sheepskin is just a lining, there will be stitching along the edges where the top grain and sheepskin is sewn together. And of course, if you can gently pull the sheepskin inside away from the outside leather somewhere...then it's definitely a sheepskin lining.

Anyway, Thank you in advance for any and all answers! Appreciate it!

 

[Southoftheborder]

Bothe Irvins and B3s are sheepskin with a sealed finish on the outside. The perceived differences are the type of finish used. B3s were proofed with a kind of acrylic or dope I believe - though I am no B3 expert - and the hides used on Irvins were tanned and finished in a different way making them look more leather like and also more durable.

 

[dbtk44]

Thank you Southoftheborder, appreciate the answer! So, (more or less) similar construction, but a much nicer finish on the flesh side on Irvins than B3s...great info, thanks again!

I believe you are correct about the dope on B3s, They had some type of flame-retardent finish applied to them, something like that? Mine are modern repros so I think it's just an acrylic topcoat over the dye.

 

[mulceber]

Keep in mind that ugly coat to the B-3 that you noted (and iirc, it is indeed acrylic), only started to be introduced in 1941. Earlier ones were much nicer looking, like Irvins, and those have survived better:

Rough Wear 17756 (contract issued February of '41)

Contract 17812, probably issued at the same time, maybe a little later in the year. I've heard it suggested this was United Garment Co.?

 

[dbtk44]

Mulceber, thank you for the pics and info, appreciate it!