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New (or nearly so) Irvin Foster G-1

tda003

Well-Known Member
This is what appears to be an unissued Irvin B. Foster Spec. MIL-J-7823C G-1. The contract no. is DSA-10003081. The only exception to the condition is the bottom of the zipper which appears to have the wear normlly seen on much used jackets. There is no size tag on the inside of either pocket or elsewhere except for the size on the label.
I'm posting some of the photos I've taken. More if requested. Foster6.jpg
 

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Chevalier

Member
Thank you for this post! It is helping me figure out which elements of a (new to me) 7823B jacket by the same maker are original. Do your knits have the 2 pattern weave? It looks like they are pretty uniform in the photos.
 

tda003

Well-Known Member
In looking up the specs for the cuffs and wristlets For the G-1, the Navy required bi-weave cuffs, but was silent about the weave for the waistband. This was spelled out in the specs for MIL-J-7823 and as MIL-W-17271 from MIL-J-7823A thru MIL-J-7823C. Thus, a manufacturer could have different weaving for each and this is apparently what Foster did.
 

MikeyB-17

Well-Known Member
Way back when dinosaurs ruled the Earth, somebody said something about Irvin B. ‘C’ series jackets having an ‘extra seam’ on the bi-swing that other jackets don’t have. I had one once (another ‘shouldn’t have sold it’ scenario, as it was one of my favourites), and it had a seam at the edge of the back panel because the gusset was separate to the main panel. Am I talking out of my arse here or does anyone else know anything about this?
 

tda003

Well-Known Member
I've just checked my jacket. I can't find an extra seam even when feeling along the elastic inside of the lining. If there is an extra seam I can neither see nor feel it.
 

MikeyB-17

Well-Known Member
This is what I mean-compare this old no-label ?70’s G-1 to yours. In mine the edge of the back panel is folded over and stitched and forms part of the bi-swing.
2C6A14EC-82D2-4599-B6E1-8E6D2976CEBC.jpeg

Whereas in yours, the back panel is separate from the bi-swing, resulting in a seam along the edge.
F89097F7-F483-4202-8511-4B678B97CE44.jpeg

I’ve looked at all the jackets on the ‘Better fighting garment’ thread, and they all seem to have the folded edge as far as I can see. On one of the C series Irvin B’s you can’t see it, but you clearly can on another.
Apologies for hijacking your thread, I think I may be the only person who gives a monkey’s about this, but I think whoever mentioned it all those years ago may be right.
 

MikeyB-17

Well-Known Member
Cheers Flash-for some reason it stuck with me when I read about it. I recall it was referred to as ‘the famous Irvin B. Foster extra seam’, but I don’t think I’ve ever seen it mentioned since. I’ve brought it up a few times, but nobody ever showed any interest or seemed to know anything about it, so it can’t be that famous, but I reckon there’s something in it.
 

Chevalier

Member
In looking up the specs for the cuffs and wristlets For the G-1, the Navy required bi-weave cuffs, but was silent about the weave for the waistband. This was spelled out in the specs for MIL-J-7823 and as MIL-W-17271 from MIL-J-7823A thru MIL-J-7823C. Thus, a manufacturer could have different weaving for each and this is apparently what Foster did.
Thank you for the extra photos and researching the specs. Mine has a biweave single ply waistband, but doubled wrist cuffs. If the cuffs are biweave, it is a more subtle transition between weaves than the waistband.
image.jpg

Knowing what is original and what could be a later replacement is helping me decide what to repair and what to replace. Thanks again tda003! These stock/unworn examples like you shared really help show the look of the jackets when they were new.
 
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Chevalier

Member
Cheers Flash-for some reason it stuck with me when I read about it. I recall it was referred to as ‘the famous Irvin B. Foster extra seam’, but I don’t think I’ve ever seen it mentioned since. I’ve brought it up a few times, but nobody ever showed any interest or seemed to know anything about it, so it can’t be that famous, but I reckon there’s something in it.
FWIW, mine has the integrated back panel. No extra seam at the edge of the biswing fold.
image.jpg
 

tda003

Well-Known Member
Mikey,
I FINALLY see what you mean. I checked all my G-1 types from my M-422A's thru MIL-J-782d3E including a MIL-J-7823C by Ralph Edwards and only the Foster has that particular extra seam. The specs for the gusset seam(s) are silent in that regard. Thanks very much for pointing that out as I hadn't noticed the difference until you pointed it out.
 

MikeyB-17

Well-Known Member
Mikey,
I FINALLY see what you mean. I checked all my G-1 types from my M-422A's thru MIL-J-782d3E including a MIL-J-7823C by Ralph Edwards and only the Foster has that particular extra seam. The specs for the gusset seam(s) are silent in that regard. Thanks very much for pointing that out as I hadn't noticed the difference until you pointed it out.
Great! Perhaps I’m not losing my marbles after all! :D
 

STEVE S.

Well-Known Member
Thank you for the extra photos and researching the specs. Mine has a biweave single ply waistband, but doubled wrist cuffs. If the cuffs are biweave, it is a more subtle transition between weaves than the waistband.
Knowing what is original and what could be a later replacement is helping me decide what to repair and what to replace. Thanks again tda003! These stock/unworn examples like you shared really help show the look of the jackets when they were new.
what they mean by the use of biweave on the cuffs is the tightness/size of the weave used to make the cuffs, not a different weave like the rib/rack waistbands. You can see a distinct size difference between the areas circled.

6724ECB2-9EFA-4398-B793-F7BCC7C76BF3.jpeg
 
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