My last A-2 (hopefully) - Good Wear

[saucerfiend]

I just received a new Rough Wear 16159 in Horween Horsehide. I'll review it in a day or 2.

 

[Brettafett]

Oh yes, both those last posts! Adding both those to the list...
Any links appreciated, can't recall where I saw them. Looking forward to pics

 

[Brettafett]

My second GW was a RW 27752, unfortunately it was a big big. It's was a great jacket though.

 

[33-1729]

Oh yes, both those last posts! Adding both those to the list...
Any links appreciated, can't recall where I saw them. Looking forward to pics

I placed the link below, along with a cut-and-paste short version from that thread.

Compared to RW 42-1401P, the RW contract dated a week before this one (8-Aug-41 vs 15-Aug-41), the collar stand, pocket tag, and remaining original dull orange lining are as expected from RW. The leather is similar (may be cow or horse) with a thin, very light, aniline-like finish and the thread is mid-brown like part of the 42-1401P contract (the rest of 42-1401P was dark brown cotton thread). The zipper is unique to a RW contract, being a brown coated M-39 Talon No. 5, as also seen on the Fried Ostermann Co. contract W535ac-23883. The pocket flaps look more like an Aero or maybe a RW W535ac-16159.

The "brown coated" M-39 Talon No 5 zipper has been seen on only two contracts, this RW 42-1671P and the Fried Ostermann Co. W535ac-23383. If the zipper is clearly original to the jacket these jackets can be easily distinguished from each other. The Fried is goatskin and this RW is cow/horse, the Fried has a unique collar stand construction with the back panel being top-stitched versus the normal RW, the Fried shoulder seam is centered under the epaulette and the RW isn’t, etc. Maybe if others in the 490th (Burma Bridge Busters) had this jacket that might explain the small contract size [Mr Eastman estimated the contract to be around 300 jackets from the paperwork he found with the contract value].

Rough Wear 42-1671-P has been found!

Mr Eastman found the paperwork for a Rough Wear Clothing Co. contract number W535ac-21035, order number 42-1671-P, and estimated the production to be around three hundred jackets based upon the contract value (page 209 of his excellent book). With incredible luck and a great eye, someone has...

www.vintageleatherjackets.org

 

[Smithy]

RW 27752

That's actually one that I'm considering Brett.

 

[33-1729]

That's actually one that I'm considering Brett.

Given John’s remarkable eye and attention to detail any GW choice would be an excellent choice.

 

[Smithy]

Given John’s remarkable eye and attention to detail any GW choice would be an excellent choice.

I have no doubt that whatever I choose John will do an incredible job. Now it's really the fun bit of working out what contract I want.

Ive found that early on I liked the trim fitting A2 contracts and I went with those . Then I realized that in most cases the WWII trim fit look didn’t come from wearing a close fitting jacket but from the fact that much of the time the people wearing them had a t-shirt, then a long Johns top, over which they wore a thick woolen military long sleeve shirt and tie , and sometimes a thick sweater over all of that . Not the t-Shirt that most of us like to wear. With all of that clothing , the jackets looked trim on them . Take all of that down to a t-shirt and the same jacket would look a size or in some cases two sizes too big . You often see this in summer or fall photos of enlisted guys wearing just t-shirts under there A2’s . Officers were always expected to dress with a shirt and tie. So if you want the blousy WWII kind of fit with any contract , Go up a size from what you would normally order .

No way I'm going for the stuffed sausage look Burt ;-)

I’d opt for the Aero 16160. Not entirely sure why, but it’s my current favorite. It’s just badass.

It's on the list Nick, yours looks the mutt's nuts!

 

[saucerfiend]

The RW 16159 that John made for me is patterned from Jorge's beautiful original that he was kind enough to loan to John.
Brian

 

[ausreenactor]

I find it interesting what makes us so fickle over contracts when ostensibly all A2’s are more or less the same, well so my missus and others tell me! Ive said here before that whilst I like Dubows and Spiewak’s for their more pointy collars, I equally like Perry’s for their more stubby rounded collar but I’ve yet to own a seal, rust knit A2 so come the day thats what might/will be my final A2 (he says)!! We shouldn't wish our lives away but bet that wait cant happen quick enough - I recall my GW arriving and putting it on for the first time, felt the dogs doddahs!!!!

"Just another drab brown jacket!"

Did get a compliment out of Wife with the ELC Hartmann though?

 

[London Cabbie]

Well it's been less than a day and I've already convinced myself that it should be a Rough Wear!

It’s like a horse race…

 

[mulceber]

It’s like a horse race…

Complete with actual horse (hide).

 

[Smithy]

It’s like a horse race…

So far RW 27752 is out in front approaching the first furlong, 16160 is a length behind on the inside, Poughkeepsie holding fast a half length behind with Bronco and 27753 rounding out the front pack...

(I'm banging coconut shells together as I say this)

 

[Brettafett]

Fun part is going to be in a year or twos time, to see if/ how our preferences have changed.

 

[Smithy]

Fun part is going to be in a year or twos time, to see if/ how our preferences have changed.

It's funny Brett I'm currently feeling I'm going full circle. When I first got interested in A-2s the first one I wanted was a 27752 but I never bought one. When I was talking to John back in early 2008 it was a 16160.

Right now the Poughkeepsie is lagging behind and sure it might, and very well will, change but at the mo it's the 27752 and the 16160 in the front running.

Yeah I know this is meaningless as it's over a year out but humour me, it's the joy of the big GW wait ;-)

 

[Brettafett]

Right in the circus with you mate!

I know I posted this before, but here's my second GW, RW27752. Up to this point Id had a few RWs from ELC (could just not get the fit right), but this RW was on another level.
As you can see, it was one size too big ;(
On the right is John with same jacket before posting...

For the third jacket I was on the cusp of ordering a 16160 or a Monarch, but ended up at the last minute with the RW1401 (this jacket fit great, John nailed the pattern, but I did not like that particular Shinki, it was 'reddy, orange' - quite loud. And the sleeves were a touch short) Lessons learned.

That GW Monarch I owned briefly awhile ago was another fantastic jacket (size 44!), and John surely makes a killer Monarch. Thats why that's also in the running.

 

[Garylafortuna]

Smithy, it has been said that; 'the native hue of resolution is oft' sicklied o'er by the pale cast of thought'.
Choose well sir.

 

[Smithy]

Smithy, it has been said that; 'the native hue of resolution is oft' sicklied o'er by the pale cast of thought'.

That's probably the most sense and wisdom anyone has posted in this thread, let alone myriad others!

 

[Mr. Mike]

I find it interesting what makes us so fickle over contracts when ostensibly all A2’s are more or less the same, well so my missus and others tell me! Ive said here before that whilst I like Dubows and Spiewak’s for their more pointy collars, I equally like Perry’s for their more stubby rounded collar but I’ve yet to own a seal, rust knit A2 so come the day thats what might/will be my final A2 (he says)!! We shouldn't wish our lives away but bet that wait cant happen quick enough - I recall my GW arriving and putting it on for the first time, felt the dogs doddahs!!!!

With so many folks still on search for the perfect fit A-2 we probably should come together sometime to mutually test our prey and see who is currently in possession of the holy grail perfectly fitting another. I am still on search for the right one myself as I still not have encountered the right fit. Disregarding whether taking 42 at the lower end or 44 at the higher end - still most of the examples I owned appeared too bulky or blousy (backside in particular). Still in the queue for a BK Star Sportswear and one of Platon's Dubows, so let's see if one of them will make a point. Waiting times (COVID back and forth or not) are simply horrifying and seem to outpace each other in the meantime.

GW I need to keep as the silver Bullitt making me awestruck - because if this would fail, realization not being an A-2 man would tear me apart ;o). So in continued search for the perfect sample I shy away from spoiling my expectation of GW as the perfect nirvana too early - there still needs to be hope ).

 

[Brettafett]

Mr Mike, as a humble opinion, I dont think GW is the pinnacle or jacket of Nirvana. I think any high end jacket (or any jacket really) that fits well, is made well and ticks your boxes, will fit the bill.

I have owned four GWs, and as well-made, acutely detailed and amazing as they were, I no longer own any of them. For a reason. Some guys are lucky, I guess I was not.
Doesn't detract from the jacket.

I am lucky enough (or should I say persistent enough) to have a Holy Grail jacket, in fact I have 3! Well, almost 3
My BK RW 23380 is as perfect in every way as I could ever hope for (OK, it has a Talon zipper, not a Crown, but that's ok by me. It was offered, but its just not a big deal for me).
MY seal BK Dubow 27798 is 95% perfect and my Platon Dubow is 95% perfect (and that's me being pedantic).

I certainly no longer need to hunt for another grail jacket, but its fun. I do have a hankering for a russet A-2, and my GW may be that jacket.
(my ELC Monarch is an insane looking jacket, but Im just not 100% happy with the fit... I cant put it on without it bugging me. Im trying)

Its taken me decades and soooooo many jackets to get here. And god knows how much money Ive spent along the way.

What I would like to offer, is if you do like the look of a GW, put in a deposit and get in the queue now.
If in a year or twos time, you change your mind, Im sure John will return that to you. So, you have nothing to lose.
However, if you get the GW itch in a year or twos time, then who knows how long the queue will be or if prices have gone up etc...

 

[Brettafett]

Also, not do divert to far from the 'GW' thread...

I feel its NB to mention that Headwind has that Knopf 18246 and Perry A-2 on the horizon. Im extremely keen to see what jay comes up with.
From what I've seen of thierother jackets thus far, the detailing and materials looks superb. I feel sure any one of these could also be high end 'grail' jackets...
I am trying very hard to be reasonable with this hobby, but...

(My first GW was a Knopf 18246, it was incredible. But.. it was too short all round. And the light chocolate Seall HH used on that was no longer available... etc)