My first selvedge denim : Momotaro Jeans 0306-12SP

[Dany McDonald]

I am lucky to live near the Naked & Famous denim shop/atelier, like a 30 min motorbike ride. I get to try the cut/weight/fit in store so I can avoid a costly disappointment. 12 oz is my sweet spot, 25 oz is just too much for me as it will take like 3 years to form, 16 oz is okay too. I see a lot more stretch incorporated in their line and I keep away from it, the denim doesn't age like I desire. Like Jan I am itching for a pair of Sugar Cane 47, the pricing is honest, but the sizing (Japanese) versus the fit/cut is something I have to grasp. Vintage jackets and selvedge jeans are made to go together! And boots, and ....

@Kermit3D Those Momotaro 0306-12 are really nice!

Anyways great tread!

Dany

 

[mulceber]

I am lucky to live near the Naked & Famous denim shop/atelier, like a 30 min motorbike ride. I get to try the cut/weight/fit in store so I can avoid a costly disappointment. 12 oz is my sweet spot, 25 oz is just too much for me as it will take like 3 years to form, 16 oz is okay too. I see a lot more stretch incorporated in their line and I keep away from it, the denim doesn't age like I desire. Like Jan I am itching for a pair of Sugar Cane 47, the pricing is honest, but the sizing (Japanese) versus the fit/cut is something I have to grasp. Vintage jackets and selvedge jeans are made to go together! And boots, and ....

@Kermit3D Those Momotaro 0306-12 are really nice!

Anyways great tread!

Dany

Naked & Famous is on my radar as well. I’d like to get some ultra-light weight selvage (9 oz? Less?) for next summer. They generally look like they have some really cool stuff. More modern, but not everything has to be vintage cuts.

 

[Harris_HTM]

Same

SPAM/TROLL Alert.
This bot changed my original post and added some crap about "cleaned shoes guided by guard or whatever". Reported.

 

[mulceber]

Well, I guess that was the first spam bot that proved useful. It jumpstarted a cool thread, and I don't think many people noticed whatever links it tried to push us toward. Thanks, spambot! Now go to hell.

 

[Brylcreemer]

I love the look of selvedge - it's such a nuanced yet beautiful touch. Frustratingly, though, I've found (after considerable effort) that raw denim really isn't for me - I've had multiple weights and brands yet found them all uncomfortable and a faff to maintain. Also, I dislike fading! I totally get why people do like them, though - it just comes down to subjectivity.

What I've been after for a long time now is a pair of sanforised selvedge jeans with a healthy, high rise. It's a search which continues to be fruitless, so if anyone sees any, I'd be hugely appreciative of a head's up.

 

[mulceber]

This isn’t normally recommended, but for what you want, I’d say get some jeans that are a bit big (and especially several centimeters too long) and put them through the washer and dryer (low heat for both). I have a pair of selvage jeans that I did that a lot with (before I knew any better), and they’re now very soft. Bonus, they also didn’t fade in the typical selvage way - just some edge wear. Otherwise they’re still indigo.

 

[Brylcreemer]

Thanks for the tip, that's a good idea. They look amazingly un-faded for a pair of raw denim that have been washed and dried. Can I ask the make and model?

Cheers,
Adam

 

[mulceber]

Sure, they're by a small British company called Freddies of Pinewood. Here they are: https://www.freddiesofpinewood.co.uk/product/mens-1940s-jeans/

 

[Brylcreemer]

Brill, thanks

 

[entertainment]

I love the look of selvedge - it's such a nuanced yet beautiful touch. Frustratingly, though, I've found (after considerable effort) that raw denim really isn't for me - I've had multiple weights and brands yet found them all uncomfortable and a faff to maintain. Also, I dislike fading! I totally get why people do like them, though - it just comes down to subjectivity.

What I've been after for a long time now is a pair of sanforised selvedge jeans with a healthy, high rise. It's a search which continues to be fruitless, so if anyone sees any, I'd be hugely appreciative of a head's up.

For sanforized selvedge, what about LVC 505s? But they do have a zip instead of a button fly.
Lee is another possibility, but they do not fit me well unlike Grant.

 

[AlexLutov]

Great thread..denim is my favorite topic. For me, 16 oz is max. has anyone tried Swedish indigofera denim? I recommend it!

 

[Thomas Koehle]

I've read a lot about selvedge jeans... That they are very uncomfortable, that the indigo color rubs off on shoes and chairs, that they need to be washed cold, by hand, ...
I never dared to take the step until yesterday.

I went by chance in a small store dedicated to bikers/surfers clothes... and I tried for the first time one of these selvedge jeans. I immediately loved it !
Ok, it seems as stiff as cardboard, but it's not so uncomfortable after all, and it should soften up. The finish is amazing, it's not comparable to the jeans I've worn before.
The saleswoman was reassuring about the maintenance and the washing... she says that there will be no problem with the color that rubs off on the shoes... we'll see !

So here I am with my first selvedge denim: a very nice Momotaro 0306-12 12oz


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So how did they "develop" since April?

Any new photos?

 

[Brylcreemer]

For sanforized selvedge, what about LVC 505s? But they do have a zip instead of a button fly.
Lee is another possibility, but they do not fit me well unlike Grant.

I've just made a cursory google, and these might be the ones! Thanks

 

[entertainment]

I've just made a cursory google, and these might be the ones! Thanks

The LVC 505s are trimmer than the typical 501 but nothing like a slim fit. The rise is quite high. Unlike many sanforized jeans, they don't stretch much in the waist with wear, so make sure they are comfortable from the start. But to warn you, my pairs are from 10-15 years ago, so things may have changed.

Denimbro is a good forum for selvedge jeans, especially LVC. Grant and Happy Hooligan have participated there. It is an excellent place to ask questions.

 

[johnwayne]

Anyone checked out Aero’s site for denim?
Mainly LVC and Lee vintage and, pricey!
Always like the LVC 44’s but despite a great cut and fit (for me anyway) in all honesty after several pairs I never thought they ‘wore’ well, commonly wearing thin in the crotch - no jokes please!! In the UK you could do a lot worse than check Uniqlo selvedge, very keenly priced. Anyone here ever try Prison Blues, great retro wider fit and higher waisted. Still got a pair and their hickory prison shirt that I love wearing, looks great with the jeans even if you look like you've just walked of the set of Shawshank Redemption!!!

 

[Silver Surfer]

I had a look see at the Gustin jeans, and took note of the sale. however, they only make button front jeans, which are not my cuppa. if the on sale 1968 Gustin jeans were zipper front, I would order up 2-3 pair in a heartbeat.

 

[mulceber]

I had a look see at the Gustin jeans, and took note of the sale. however, they only make button front jeans, which are not my cuppa. if the on sale 1968 Gustin jeans were zipper front, I would order up 2-3 pair in a heartbeat.

Yeah, I’ve noticed that as well — seems like all the selvage jeans that I’ve encountered have button flies. This is weird, because it’s not like the selvage industry is adhering strictly to vintage methods in any other respect. They’re using the shuttle loom, but otherwise most of these companies are taking full liberty to experiment — which is fine…but why not upgrade the closure in the process?

 

[Silver Surfer]

when Levis were making their raw selvage cone mill jeans a few years ago, they offered a couple of of their jeans with zipper flys. I wear them.

 

[Harris_HTM]

Most of my selvedge pairs (Iron Heart, Rogue Territory, Unbranded Branded, Lee 101) are indeed button front. I own however also two pairs of these, zip fly:

https://eu.lee.com/uk-en/shop/men/shop-by-category/lee-101-collection/101-z-in-dry-L9534941.html?merchCategory=c010112

 

[entertainment]

Yeah, I’ve noticed that as well — seems like all the selvage jeans that I’ve encountered have button flies. This is weird, because it’s not like the selvage industry is adhering strictly to vintage methods in any other respect. They’re using the shuttle loom, but otherwise most of these companies are taking full liberty to experiment — which is fine…but why not upgrade the closure in the process?

I believe the reason for the preference for button flies in selvedge jeans is that most selvedge jeans are made of unsanforized denim which can shrink quite a bit, while the sanforized tape and metal teeth of the zipper effectively cannot shrink. The difference in shrinkage can lead to an unfortunate outcome, whereas with a button fly, there is no issue.

Unsanforized jeans with zippers definitely exist but have never been very popular. The 501Z was introduced in 1954 but never came close to replacing the button-fly 501, even as pants with zippers replaced pants with button flies in general.