Kelso 23380 vs Eastman 1401P

[DiamondDave]

Diamond Dave doesn't make A-2 jacket with collar stands (not at this time anyway, but I would expect them in the future, fingers crossed!). Rough Wear jackets all had a collar stand.

Hmmmm, funny you should mention it...just finished a size 42 Acme (Aero) 16160 late this evening (pics tomorrow), I'm knackered! This is my first foray into the collar stand. Sort of fun.

 

[omarco]

After talking to Dave at Diamond Daves I just pulled the trigger on his A-2 !
He does custom jackets - which I need - so I went for it !
3 week wait - looks like another sherif in town !
Thanks to all for the help

good decision! my next A2 will be from Dave no doubt.

 

[foster]

Dave, I knew it wouldn't take you long! Looking forward to the photos!

 

[TOMG1401]

Being on the Forum and all it's predessors for 16 years and being a long time ELC customer, I would say with all the current options now available to us, I myself would now always opt for the maker who offers the most customized fit. Too expensive these days for hit and miss on the fit, no brainer IMHO

 

[TOMG1401]

P.S. to previous post. To all the new guys, NEVER neglect or under estimate the importance of "Sleeve Taper" it can make or break a jacket, no matter who the maker is.

 

[1970Novass]

DD will contact me with measurements this week. I will mention the sleeve taper.
Just to ask - I'm assuming sleeve taper on an A-2 is a must .
Thanks for the update

 

[TOMG1401]

ABSOLUTE MUST, otherwise the sleeves look like trouser legs

 

[Marv]

ABSOLUTE MUST, otherwise the sleeves look like trouser legs

This is true and can been seen on most, if not all BK Mil jackets both AAF and USN.

 

[Rutger]

P.S. to previous post. To all the new guys, NEVER neglect or under estimate the importance of "Sleeve Taper" it can make or break a jacket, no matter who the maker is.

hear,hear

 

[Nickb123]

Can anyone elaborate on the sleeve taper?

 

[Rutger]

I don't know what you already know about "taper"; it might easily be equal to or more than I know.

For those who aren't aware:
Distance (circumference) A decreases towards the wrist up to distance (circumf.) B, which creates a tapered or conical shape.
If B remains equal to A the sleeve will be a straight pipe, there will be no taper, which will cause the wrist knit to stretch outward.
Having a sleeve shortened might well require some adjustment of the taper of the sleeve.



I'm quite sure somebody from this forum has instant knowledge on what amount of taper to expect from which original maker, and maybe it's also mentioned in the book from Eastman.

 

[Kennyz]

Van & Bill give some interesting info about sleeve taper, with measurements, on this thread:

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=988&hilit=sleeve+taper

Ken