GW Rough Wear 18091

[Heisenberg]

And the name tag :

 

[Micawber]

Going back a few steps...

I'm fairly sure this has probably been said before re the shoulder rank insignia on the McQueen jacket but as I am capable of original thought on occasion here goes....

It's a re-dye. Re-dye's were more often than not sloppy, hurried affairs carried out by guys in the depot who were in a rush. If the jacket had leather shoulder insignia in place when presented to the guy doing the re-dye what's he going to do, he's going to brush dye over the whole jacket and insignia and grab the next jacket on the rail.

Sometime in the near or far future said rank insignia are unstitched to reveal the original russet finish underneath - hence the lighter areas at the ends of the epaulettes as seen in some stills.

 

[Heisenberg]

I agree , Steve .
You explained in more detail what I explained at the beginning

 

[Heisenberg]

Guys , your many comments are precious to make this jacket !
Thank you all

 

[P-47 thunderbolt]

I always wanted a hilts style jacket and settled for an Eastman 27752 which I feel is much darker in colour than an original would have been and as such pretty close to the redye. One aspect that I've always noticed is that McQueen's roughwear had pretty pointed pocketflaps. On my Eastman 27752 an bk 27752 they are very round

 

[P-47 thunderbolt]

 

[P-47 thunderbolt]

In fact one side of the flap looks concave and the other side flat

 

[Brettafett]

I've noticed this also. I wonder if this is not why some say its a 16159.
I recall it mentioned Hilt's jacket is in some Japanese collection. Perhaps Gary knows something he's not telling.
Eastman's version

Heres an original 16159

I'm sure there's more examples....

Found this also - https://www.vintageleatherjackets.org/threads/elc-hilts-a-2.18953/page-2

 

[Brettafett]

Either way, John will nail it!

 

[Heisenberg]

For the pockets :

 

[P-47 thunderbolt]

I think its too complicated to know which contract it was but a roughwear with these nuance details will be spot on, the only difference would be the contract number on the label and obviously we never see this in the film.
Multiple factors - original hasty construction with odd stitch lines, a redye, insignia removed, costume department fabrications and creations. It will be one characterful jacket that I'm sure I will be very jealous of

 

[Heisenberg]

For me , Eastman got totally wrong ...

 

[Brettafett]

I think so... those flaps on ELC's look a bit 'Starsportsweary' to me.
Love it. These details...

 

[Heisenberg]

and I agree with Steve who explained the thing well :

 

[Heisenberg]

who can post a photo of the " original Japanese " jacket ?

 

[P-47 thunderbolt]

Yes I would agree that Eastman's are wrong but McQueen's jacket definitely has pointier pocket flaps than my Eastman 27752 and BK 27752. This could of course simply be that the machinist of McQueen's jacket rushed the stitch line

 

[Heisenberg]

Yes I would agree that Eastman's are wrong but McQueen's jacket definitely has pointier pocket flaps than my Eastman 27752 and BK 27752. This could of course simply be that the machinist of McQueen's jacket rushed the stitch line

i don't agree my friend :

 

[Brettafett]

But look at the left pocket, it is a bit pointier.
Any pics showing both pockets at same time???

I recon its exactly this, in wartime, jackets were hurried through, there are many examples of variations occurring... There was a war on etc etc...
I've seen one or two originals with my own eye that looked terrible interms of build. Skew and crooked stitch lines, pocket flaps all over the place, collar lop-sided, one sleeve longer than the other etc...
Im sure anyone who has owned a few originals can find inconsistencies...

Thats why as a top repro maker today, to be super accurate, you'd have to study and look at a number of jackets of a particular contract. I believe John has done this.
Thus you get a good idea of what was 'most' common. Also why one maker's particular jacket, may have some details which vary, but are still accurate.
BK/ Platon's Dubow for example, has slightly rounded collar tips, many originals were a bit more pointy, but his original is exactly as he made his repro, with slightly rounded collar points. And I have tons of pics showing both.

 

[P-47 thunderbolt]

 

[P-47 thunderbolt]

My money would be on McQueen's being a 27752 but I think his left pocket flap I pointier than the right. Here's my two 27752s, camera angle also changes how the pockets look too, I must concede that they both look much pointier than I remember them (not seen them for a long time)