GoodWear B-3

[PaulGT3]

John Lever asked me to do a review of GoodWears New B-3 so here it is.
I was talking to John Chapman a couple of months ago, about another jacket
when he told me about a trip, we were going to meet in Southern California.
But back trouble kept me home. Any way He told me about a jacket he made for
a test and sent me some pics. Since I was looking for an Irvin and I had a Eastman
B-3 this one strangely seemed to fit both needs. So I sold the Eastman and bought this
one. The Eastman was JUST broken in, and the only thing I didnt like about it was its
monotone color. When I saw this one it has a mixture of Russet and Seal and I
really liked it. John told me he was inspired by the B-3s toward the end of 1943
where the jackets had been to depot and been refurbed with many different
colors of hides. On top of that the shearling is about 1/4 to 1/3 inch longer
than the eastmans 3/4 inch shearling. That was my goal in getting a repo Irvin,
So I kinda kilt (Scottish for killed) two sheep with one goat.
I put one pic in here where I put my fingers into the wool to show how deep it is.

 

[PaulGT3]

Here is a pic of the Eastman, Beautiful but a little too monotone for me
once I saw the Goodwear. The GW shearling was just a tad more buttery colored too,
which I like. The first GW B-3 was more this color if I remember correctly.
The collar on the GW is a tad larger which gives me a bit more Irvin feeling.

 

[Anonymous]

Both wonderful jackets. Like the contrast on the GW.

 

[John Lever]

Thanks Paul,
I also like the subtle colour variation between panels. The same jacket with wool the same colour as Andrews RM would be perfect.

 

[joeson]

I prefer the Goodwear too.The colour of the panels and leather straps work so much better.Also seams to have less of a 'treacle coated' appearance,a thing I hate on new leather jackets.

 

[m444uk]

I prefer the Goodwear too.The colour of the panels and leather straps work so much better.Also seams to have less of a 'treacle coated' appearance,a thing I hate on new leather jackets.

As far as I can remember, the straps on my Eastman are identical to the originals I've owned.

Early pattern triangular gusset.

 

[joeson]

Looks a different jacket to the one above

 

[PaulGT3]

John do you like more butter color?

 

[John Lever]

John do you like more butter color?

Yes, looks more subtle. I would say Andrew's is spot on.

 

[m444uk]

Some belts are veg tanned in such a way that they remain stiff throughout their life. I was looking at some 19th farm equipment the other day and it's clear they were never soft.
The belts on my Eastman were softish from new. The jacket is of medium weight so for me that's probably appropriate. The heavier RMCJ B3s I saw in the McCoy shop in Tokyo were much stiffer and heavier affairs.

 

[Roughwear]

The straps on ELC B-3s varied in thickness over the years according to the batches of leather they used. Many of the ELC B-3s that I have seen had thinner straps than originals. It is a shame they don't craft the prong on their buckles with the same sharp point as seen on originals.

 

[PaulGT3]

Well the buttery color of this one is what really attracted me. Yea I wouldnt mind more color but the whole jacket to me
was just perfect. Like I said, I was going to look for an Irvin but Johns product seemed to satisfy both wants for me.
I love Andrews too, but I wouldnt trade! I like the Russet Seal mix, both are fantastic. (I would take both tho!!!)

 

[airfrogusmc]

Well the buttery color of this one is what really attracted me. Yea I wouldnt mind more color but the whole jacket to me
was just perfect. Like I said, I was going to look for an Irvin but Johns product seemed to satisfy both wants for me.
I love Andrews too, but I wouldnt trade! I like the Russet Seal mix, both are fantastic. (I would take both tho!!!)

Really nice B-3....