Everything Vintage Irvins

[shanghai joe]

so waht's the final verdict-size and measurements, please!



I seek clarity, said the blind grasshopper

 

[shanghai joe]

BLACK FLEECE IRVIN

Today I bought a very rare black fleece mid War Irvin on Ebay. It's in fantastic condition, without the normal wear to the fleece. I know it has been discussed in in Auction talk, but it will get lost there!


me no have problem, cos I'm told where to go

 

[Roughwear]

so waht's the final verdict-size and measurements, please!



I seek clarity, said the blind grasshopper

Size 5 Irvin. Pit to pit is 23" and sleeves are 26" from shoulder seam to end of cuff, 21" across the shoulders and 24" down the back from base of collar to hem.

I suspect no maker specifically made black fleece Irvins. I guess some black fleeces were available and the maker made a few such jackets. I would guess it is the work of Irvin Air Chute. It has the smaller collar rings, square collar and wider seam tapes which were features of this maker. However there is no absolute proof that it was made by IAC and I doubt if there ever will be. It's a shame it does not have the spec label because the contract number would be helpful. Oh well its a fantastic, ultra rare jacket.

 

[shanghai joe]

so waht's the final verdict-size and measurements, please!



I seek clarity, said the blind grasshopper

Size 5 Irvin. Pit to pit is 23" and sleeves are 26" from shoulder seam to end of cuff, 21" across the shoulders and 24" down the back from base of collar to hem.

I suspect no maker specifically made black fleece Irvins. I guess some black fleeces were available and the maker made a few such jackets. I would guess it is the work of Irvin Air Chute. It has the smaller collar rings, square collar and wider seam tapes which were features of this maker. However there is no absolute proof that it was made by IAC and I doubt if there ever will be. It's a shame it does not have the spec label because the contract number would be helpful. Oh well its a fantastic, ultra rare jacket.

good fit............suit you well, sir!

 

[Roughwear]

good fit............suit you well, sir!

Now where have I heard that said before? :lol:

 

[spitfire]

I came across this jacket quite a while ago.it looks to me like an early irvin jacket,but one thing puzzled me at the time,and still does,and that is,why is the collar strap hanging on the right side of the collar,and not the left side,as they normally do.perhaps it was made for a left handed crew member or even a woman?
Anybody got any ideas about this,and the authenticity of it being an irvin?

 

[Roughwear]

I came across this jacket quite a while ago.it looks to me like an early irvin jacket,but one thing puzzled me at the time,and still does,and that is,why is the collar strap hanging on the right side of the collar,and not the left side,as they normally do.perhaps it was made for a left handed crew member or even a woman?
Anybody got any ideas about this,and the authenticity of it being an irvin?

I have seen many of these jackets. They usually have a one panel back, are made from inferior sheepskin, sometimes with vinyl facings. The zips are often Clix or later Lightnings or even YKK. There are several theories about them. 1)ground crew jackets, the RAF equivalent of the D1 2)post war austerity flying jackets made for the civilian market 3)1950s motorbike jackets.

They seem to date from the late 40s/early 50s and were unlikely to be issued jackets. I have never seen one with a spec label. People have been fooled into parting with more money than they should for one of these jackets on ebay.

 

[spitfire]

Thank you very much andrew.that information is invaluable.

 

[Roughwear]

Thank you very much andrew.that information is invaluable.

The highest I have seen one sell for was £250 on Ebay recently. They usually go for well under £100.

 

[Roughwear]

If anyone is interested Spitfire has started an Irvin trouser thread in Related Gear.

 

[spitfire]

Thank you for mentioning the Irvin Trousers thread Andrew.
The Irvin coastal command jacket arrived.It was very very dry,and very delicate.even when i gently held it up,the leather would tear in different places.I think the previous owner/seller must have made it worse,as he said he has worn it previously,to try and get an idea of the size.
I very gently applied a coat of pecard,and the leather has become so much better and elasticated.The elastication of the leather meant,it was strong enough for me to actually wear and try it out for size.I give the size as a 36'' - 38'' chest.
The state of the arms is abominable,and annoying,as i can see it is mostly NOT war damage,but much later damage caused by very bad storage and careless usage ( not,i assume by the seller who sold it to me,as he bought it at an auction himself ).
Anyway,i will post a few pictures of it that i have taken,mostly of some of the damage.I have decided to save up my money,and in a few months,after sending these pictures to Amanda at aero,send the jacket to get repaired by aero.In my mind,it is too messed up to keep as it is,and i think it would be a joke to just pretend to myself it is war damage,so i will get it repaired.
If people from the 1960's onwards can systematically destroy it,then a guy in 2008 can systematically get their cruddy treatment of it repaired.

THE INSIDE SHEEPSKIN.IT HAS BARE PATCHES AND BLACK TAR LIKE STAINS ON IT.

A FRONTAL SHOT OF THE JACKET

THE SEVERELY DAMAGED LEFT SLEEVE/ARM

THE DAMAGED LEFT SLEEVE ON THE OTHER SIDE

 

[spitfire]

THE DAMAGED RIGHT ARM SLEEVE

THE BELT AND LOWER LEFT SECTION

THE DAMAGED HOOD,WHICH HAS A TEAR ALONG THE LEATHER

THE LOWER/MIDDLE BACK OF THE JACKET.

THE FULL BACK AND HOOD

WORN SHEEPSKIN ON SLEEVE AND WAIST

THE HOOD FROM THE BACK

THE RIGHT LOWER SECTION OF THE JACKET

When i eventually get it repaired by Aero,i will post the pictures here.The main zip is destroyed,but the sleeve zips work to a reasonable standard,although they are very stiff and have a clogged up run feeling.

 

[Roughwear]

Paul, It is certainly an interesting jacket and once repaired will look great. I guess Aero will have to replace all the lower sleeve panels. What state are the zips in?

 

[spitfire]

Thank you very much Andrew.The sleeve zips are pretty good,just stiff and dirty.the main zip is totally destroyed.Yes Andrew,i realised when i held it up,and like i said in my message to you,heard the tears in the leather ripping all the time it moved,i would have to get a few of the panels replaced.It is a shame people who have posession of these old jackets,do not think or want to take time to just apply a coat of leather oil.it would prevent so much more damage to them,especially if they keep trying them on for sizings.
I will just pop off to the repro section to check out your ELC Andrew.

 

[Roughwear]

Thank you very much Andrew.The sleeve zips are pretty good,just stiff and dirty.the main zip is totally destroyed.Yes Andrew,i realised when i held it up,and like i said in my message to you,heard the tears in the leather ripping all the time it moved,i would have to get a few of the panels replaced.It is a shame people who have posession of these old jackets,do not think or want to take time to just apply a coat of leather oil.it would prevent so much more damage to them,especially if they keep trying them on for sizings.
I will just pop off to the repro section to check out your ELC Andrew.

I agree with you here Paul. It's a shame the onwers of dried out vintage jackets don't keep them conditioned.

 

[Hawkeye]

Heres my recently aquired jacket. I got it for the tidy sum of 390.00 US, bad listing on ebay. Hasnt arrived yet, but should within the next 2 or 3 days. Its a size 4, and has had at least 2 of the zips, as well as the elastic collar strap replaced by Eastman. Theres only so much you can tell from photos, but the fleece looks pretty good, and the hide looks solid. Theres a long, old looking stitched repair to the right shoulder, but I dont mind. Adds character. I'll post more detailed pics one it arrives.

 

[spitfire]

Just an update on the coastal command irvin.I sent a few pictures to amanda at aero by email of it.she said i will have to send the jacket to them for them to examine and send me a quote.I sent it on july 7th 2008.it arrived at aero's place on tuesday 8th july 2008.I had to chase them up on whether or not the jacket had arrived.
They have had it for 19 days so far,and no quote.so they must be pretty busy.I will let you know when they send a quote etc.

 

[Andrew]

Irvin Collection

I just finished re-photographing my four Irvins and it makes a good visual resource. Here they are in chronological order.

Pre-War 2 panel with DOT zips, probably IAC, size 6. RAAF Service dress.

Pre-War 2 panel with double trunion pebble zips, probably by IAC, size 5. Named to a Flt Lt W.E. Stewart- Jones.
RAAF Service dress.

1941 dated Wareings Suits size 5. DOT zips. The collar is more square at the tips than most other patterns.
RAAF battle dress and Comfort fund aircrew sweater.

This model has a dark coloured leather backing to the collar

Same jacket with 1941 pattern RAF Mae West- no bladder.

1944 dated unknown maker RCAF Airgunners jacket with interesting artwork. Lightning zips, main slider replacement DOT style from a sidcot suit. Size 6.

 

[rich]

These are fantastic Andrew, thanks for doing all this. Great accessories too. If it were an auction (!) I'd be after your pre-war 2 panel size 6. It's one of the nicest examples I've seen. The offset seams on the Wareings is interesting and unusual, I have a jacket very similar to this, also in a 5. I know it's been mentioned before, but there's a book in all this somewhere you know........

 

[Roughwear]

These new photos really show your Irvins off very well indeed. Although two are very familiar to me, displaying them as you have shows them at their very best. Have you decided what you will do to the damaged back panel on the Canadian Irvin?