Build a Cycliste Jacket start to finish a Repro for me !

[Bombing IP]

After seeing Kermit's cycliste jacket I have become bitten by the bug and want to own one .Being I am a 25" pit to pit its unlikely I would find an original .Secondly the thought of wearing a 70 year old jacket on a daily basis is just not my bag (smells repairs rust and rot ) . So my research which has been difficult to to find any information so I have been cruising the internet and contacting owners for info and measurements of their jacket .Most people have been generous with the replies and are very willing to help . The persons willing to help I may ad are not members of the VLJ . On each post I am going to cover material cut the findings necessary to create a close as you can get reproduction . This may be interesting to all and I appreciate any input if I am wrong on any points . If you want to know where I get the parts to build a jacket send me an email via VLJ and I will tell you . If there is enough interest on this topic I will move forward ,if not I will show you the finished product . I think the veritable jacket should be dissected like any other jacket on the forum to understand the species if you will . In my opinion its one of the most underrated jackets out there millions were made and very few survived ,today they are rarer than rocking horse shit which is a shame .

BIP

 

[Pilot]

A 64 cm pit to pit test jacket.
We only used hides/liner/zips cut out of WW2 coats/jackets.

 

[Ken at Aero Leather]

Very impressive

 

[B-Man2]

I’d like to see pictures and show us as you go through the developmental stages . That’s always interesting .

 

[Smithy]

A 64 cm pit to pit test jacket.
We only used hides/liner/zips cut out of WW2 coats/jackets.View attachment 47130

That might be only a "test" jacket Brice but by God that's beautiful!

 

[bn1966]

I want to see the build through to finish please..I now have a fascination for these jackets. Need to get my ELC Hartmann tailored in on the sides a tad and have thought about getting the Ostmann re-lined due to the very heavy original lining which limits it’s useable seasons.

 

[Pilot]

I’d like to see pictures and show us as you go through the developmental stages . That’s always interesting .

Sorry, no plan ( to throw know-how out of the window) to do so.
Jacket in a good 25-26“ pit-to pit is available. PM if seriously interested in buying.
Thx to all.

 

[Pilot]

I want to see the build through to finish please..I now have a fascination for these jackets. Need to get my ELC Hartmann tailored in on the sides a tad and have thought about getting the Ostmann re-lined due to the very heavy original lining which limits it’s useable seasons.

Good luck!

 

[Pilot]

Very impressive

Thx Ken, very honored!

 

[B-Man2]

Sorry, no plan to do so.
Jacket is available. PM if seriously interested in buying.
Thx to all.

Sorry, I should have been clearer in my post . I was referring to Bombing IP.

 

[Pilot]

Sorry, I should have been clearer in my post . I was referring to Bombing IP.

No worries on my end.

 

[Bombing IP]

Pilot if you do not mind me saying this posting is a show an tell which is something you do not do or will not do .You do not give out any information it even says it as your signature .You have jumped on my thread and turned into a selling and marketing opportunity for yourself . This forum is about the nuances of different types of jacket styles cuts and features not common to other jacket photos and discussion . Or may be I am looking at this all wrong ,there seems to be more interest in your jacket prototype than my first step from start to finish . Just saying ! .

BIP

 

[Kermit3D]

A 64 cm pit to pit test jacket.
We only used hides/liner/zips cut out of WW2 coats/jackets.View attachment 47130

What a beauty !

 

[Kermit3D]

After seeing Kermit's cycliste jacket I have become bitten by the bug and want to own one .Being I am a 25" pit to pit its unlikely I would find an original .Secondly the thought of wearing a 70 year old jacket on a daily basis is just not my bag (smells repairs rust and rot ) . So my research which has been difficult to to find any information so I have been cruising the internet and contacting owners for info and measurements of their jacket .Most people have been generous with the replies and are very willing to help . The persons willing to help I may ad are not members of the VLJ . On each post I am going to cover material cut the findings necessary to create a close as you can get reproduction . This may be interesting to all and I appreciate any input if I am wrong on any points . If you want to know where I get the parts to build a jacket send me an email via VLJ and I will tell you . If there is enough interest on this topic I will move forward ,if not I will show you the finished product . I think the veritable jacket should be dissected like any other jacket on the forum to understand the species if you will . In my opinion its one of the most underrated jackets out there millions were made and very few survived ,today they are rarer than rocking horse shit which is a shame .

BIP

It promises to be very interesting and instructive.

 

[Enigma1938]

Pilot if you do not mind me saying this posting is a show an tell which is something you do not do or will not do .You do not give out any information it even says it as your signature .You have jumped on my thread and turned into a selling and marketing opportunity for yourself . This forum is about the nuances of different types of jacket styles cuts and features not common to other jacket photos and discussion . Or may be I am looking at this all wrong ,there seems to be more interest in your jacket prototype than my first step from start to finish . Just saying ! .

BIP

Don't get demotivated from such stuff and please keep it up. I'm very interested in your project and looking forward to see how it develops

 

[Bombing IP]

I going to start with the lining of the sleeves first ,as viewed in many pictures the sleeves of the jacket are always a different material and pattern from the body . The sleeves lining was probably Rayon or Viscose ,the reason behind this is so the jacket would slide on easily .I also think that the jacket interior looks very interesting an pleasing to the eye . For my jacket project I am going to use Bemberg Cupro fiber of the Asahi Kasei corporation it has been called the king of linings and has been used by many top fashion houses around the world .The material has been around since 1928 so it may have been used by French companies it was a joint venture between J R Bemberg and Ashi Kasei who is the sole manufacturer of this material .

BEMBERG
Most clients prefer a wool suit mainly because wool is a natural product and as such, it breaths. However, over 85% of wool suits sold today have a synthetic polyester lining or are mixed with one or more synthetic fibres, most of which don’t breath at all. Because of this, synthetic fibres tend to trap body odour and moisture inside the jacket canvas.

But we instead use ‘cupro’ lining for our suit jacket and trousers. Bemberg, a high-quality brand of cupro in Japan, is breathable, light, durable, and with a silky touch that looks and feels great. Bemberg Cupro® is a natural fibre made from cotton linter.
Moreover, the Bemberg Cupro® lining is anti-allergic, antistatic and resistant to the higher temperatures of stretching.
Bemberg is a natural product, with breathable fibres, that quickly absorb body moisture and release it to the outside,
creating a dry and cling free interior.
‘Bemberg’ is static free and soft on the skin, has excellent dye ability and superior colour infinity, creating deep colours with
vibrant lustre. It breaths like cotton and drapes like silk.
What’s the point of buying a breathable wool suit with a non breathing, synthetic jacket lining; it’s defeating the cause!
If you want an absolute top quality wool suit, skirt or sports jacket, it’s got to be a ‘Bemberg’ lining – No wool suit,
blazer or pants is complete without it.
All Universal Tailor suit, are tailored with ‘Bemberg’ linings as standard; we’re so convinced, that we won’t even offer the client a synthetic lining.

Taken from the Bemberg site

Bemberg Cupro Fiber Official Website | Asahi Kasei Corporation Fibers & Textiles

Bemberg™ is the brand name for the material Cupro, which is a naturally-sourced regenerated cellulose fiber. We introduce the latest information about products using Bemberg™ and sustainability initiatives, as well as related activities in various fields.

www.asahi-kasei.co.jp

Many interesting facts and features on this wonderful material

Below are some picture of the Bemberg fabric I have chosen the Jacket

My aim of this thread is to educate the end user on why such fabrics or materials are used ,as jacket aficionados we seek to know every thing about the manufacturing decisions and reasons for them . To give us a better appreciation of what we have on our backs .



If you feel I have gone into to much depth and I need to lighten up let me know

Part 2 The next part will be on the mild steel plated interlocking buckle

BIP

 

[Enigma1938]

Great choice! And good to hear all the background

 

[Ken at Aero Leather]

Thx Ken, very honored!

Credit where credit is due, gathering the materials must have been some project, we did once consifder this method back in The Thrift Shop days but even with hundreds of possdible donors to start with we never felt we had enough matched leather, not even in black.
Love to see the back

 

[Pilot]

Credit where credit is due, gathering the materials must have been some project, we did once consifder this method back in The Thrift Shop days but even with hundreds of possdible donors to start with we never felt we had enough matched leather, not even in black.
Love to see the back

Hi Ken
thanks again.
The big square needed for the back was a challenge, here it is.
We do stockpiling vintage hides and materials since we took over... Searching for all those is my task, since I am not a machinist.( two left thumbs).
Plan is to offer a special „ vintage collection „.

 

[Ken at Aero Leather]

I'd be looking for old sofas these days, leather ages well after being sat on for a few years
There was a suitable donor one in the local tip last time I was there
Garments are going to be too rare too expensive