Bronson 37J1 - opinions wanted

[Thomas Koehle]

will do B-Man2

 

[Dr H]

I’ve opted for a 42 in the unmarked khaki from an EBay distributor with the following dimensions:

Chest 45.7”
Shoulders 18.5”
Sleeve 26.18”
Length 26”

The Bronson 37J1 arrived this morning and it's an odd mixture of strong positives and annoying details for a pedant.

I don't have a tape measure with me in the office (I'll check it this evening), but I'm pretty convinced that this is more trim in the torso than advertised.
The fit on me is similar to Thomas' post (the later version) - fortunately I've shed a little weight recently so it's OK over a shirt (and I'd never aim to layer under this as it's a warm weather windbreaker), but It's more trim that I had hoped.
The narrow shoulder compensate well for the arms and so the sleeve length is perfectly good, which is unusual for me in an off the rack flight jacket.
Back length is also OK, but doesn't feel like a 26". I’m wearing high waisted 1930’s cut trousers here so the balance is right, might be too short with lower waisted trousers.

The workmanship is generally fine for the price as is the hardware - I was worried about the fabric (having had a poor W&G copy that didn't resemble Bedford cord at all), but this is a convincing looking shell, particularly in this washed version.
I'm weighing up whether to keep it or send it back at the moment (if the dimensions are off then it will go back as it feels too trim), but I won't bother faffing around with the zipper and grommets on this one.
The sleeve ends are a bit puckered (mismatch between Bedford cord and knits), which niggles me more than I thought, given the BR and RMc jackets are pretty solid in these details and well tailored.

The main design issue is the collar knit. John Jeter has already mentioned that this is an issue with his navy blue version of the 37J1 and it's sloppy since this the collar of this jacket (along with the A-1) has to sit right, whether it's folded down or standing. This knit is marginally too short at the back - not enough to be unwearable, but enough to be irritating. I had the same issue with my ELC .50 cal A-1, perfect in other respects, but with a knit that wouldn't sit properly because it had been cut as a simple band rather than a knit that should be taller at the rear. In that case, I sourced a new knit and opened the seams to replace the narrow band, but this doesn't really merit that level of effort.

Hmm...probably still looking for a larger Buzz Rickson 37J1 or a Real McCoys 37J1B.

 

[Geeboo]

show us a photo with jkt put on ?

 

[Thomas Koehle]

Thanks for the detailed review „Dr H“ - like Geeboo already requested: any fitpics?

 

[Dr H]

The Bronson 37J1 arrived this morning and it's an odd mixture of strong positives and annoying details for a pedant.

I don't have a tape measure with me in the office (I'll check it this evening), but I'm pretty convinced that this is more trim in the torso than advertised.
The fit on me is similar to Thomas' post (the later version) - fortunately I've shed a little weight recently so it's OK over a shirt (and I'd never aim to layer under this as it's a warm weather windbreaker), but It's more trim that I had hoped.
The narrow shoulder compensate well for the arms and so the sleeve length is perfectly good, which is unusual for me in an off the rack flight jacket.
Back length is also OK, but doesn't feel like a 26". I’m wearing high waisted 1930’s cut trousers here so the balance is right, might be too short with lower waisted trousers.

The workmanship is generally fine for the price as is the hardware - I was worried about the fabric (having had a poor W&G copy that didn't resemble Bedford cord at all), but this is a convincing looking shell, particularly in this washed version.
I'm weighing up whether to keep it or send it back at the moment (if the dimensions are off then it will go back as it feels too trim), but I won't bother faffing around with the zipper and grommets on this one.
The sleeve ends are a bit puckered (mismatch between Bedford cord and knits), which niggles me more than I thought, given the BR and RMc jackets are pretty solid in these details and well tailored.

The main design issue is the collar knit. John Jeter has already mentioned that this is an issue with his navy blue version of the 37J1 and it's sloppy since this the collar of this jacket (along with the A-1) has to sit right, whether it's folded down or standing. This knit is marginally too short at the back - not enough to be unwearable, but enough to be irritating. I had the same issue with my ELC .50 cal A-1, perfect in other respects, but with a knit that wouldn't sit properly because it had been cut as a simple band rather than a knit that should be taller at the rear. In that case, I sourced a new knit and opened the seams to replace the narrow band, but this doesn't really merit that level of effort.

Hmm...probably still looking for a larger Buzz Rickson 37J1 or a Real McCoys 37J1B.

Well, having measured the jacket carefully, the dimensions are off from the tabulated set in the key area for me:

Pit to pit 22" (circumference 44") rather than 45.7" as quoted.
Shoulder 18" rather than 18.5" (less of an issue as this accommodates the longer sleeve).
Sleeves 26" (26.2" quoted).
Back 25" (as described).

I've sent a message to the seller stating that the jacket is not as described in the dimensions table (I sent two messages before despatch to query the chest measurement) and and indicating that I won't be paying the return postage to China.
I wait to see what his response is on this as the collar needs significant work to make it acceptable, and I have now got a better 37J1B option lined up.

 

[Pilot]

Awaiting whats next...
Hope it will be cleared in your favor...

 

[CBI]

Agreed Ian.

I do think its a nice jacket for the money. I wish their measurements guide was correct!

Buying through Amazon made the return easy.

Hopefully, Bronson will consider some larger size options in the future for all of their clothing.

 

[Thomas Koehle]

well haven`t seen the pics before but I think it ain`t looks that bad on you ...

 

[Geeboo]

Just received the Waldes zipper - 30's Talon

style pull, Grommet box in olive cotton tape - should look ok with the jacket !

 

[Geeboo]

Will be sent to the c

loth-alterer in no time.

 

[Thomas Koehle]

looking forward to the finished jacket

how far is your deck jacket Geeboo?

 

[Geeboo]

i am waiting for the Talon zip & 3 pcs knit from Mash for that blue zip deck jkt Tom

 

[Geeboo]

updated photo - 85% finished . Waiting for smaller diameter grommet for the zipper pull. Since I have gone that far, I decided to custom made a label [ by a professional label maker] with details closest to the specimen I found. Is also waiting for that label, too.
There are so many "little" frustration

that has to overcome during the course which I will omit here, just treat it as part of the "fun".

 

[Dr H]

Hi Geeboo, am I mistaken here? Zielinski produced a 37J1B (with the upright collar and single loop) but I’m not aware of a 37J1A (with this collar configuration) from that manufacturer.

 

[Geeboo]

my pure guess cos I have not located another A style original label with font's & layout clear enough for a reproduction.
2nd, there has no evidence yet this company had not produced A style collar. Is it logical to guess a later [time scale in months' time] style contractor been awarded the earlier model contract ?
3rd, my version should have been better than the original Bronson label and Buzz's BR10395N,A version in terms of "accuracy".
Bottom line - one cannot say I have done wrong in the label.

 

[Smithy]

Nice jacket Geeboo.

 

[B-Man2]

Geeboo
Nice job. Jacket looks good.

 

[Dr H]

my pure guess cos I have not located another A style original label with font's & layout clear enough for a reproduction.
2nd, there has no evidence yet this company had not produced A style collar. Is it logical to guess a later [time scale in months' time] style contractor been awarded the earlier model contract ?
3rd, my version should have been better than the original Bronson label and Buzz's BR10395N,A version in terms of "accuracy".
Bottom line - one cannot say I have done wrong in the label.

It’s your choice what label you want to attach to your jacket of course, I was querying whether you had info that Zielinski had produced a 37J1A (as I haven’t turned up anything in my reading).

Personally, I had assumed that Buzz Rickson has probably based their shorter label on an original 37J1A (and Bronson have in turned adapted their label from the Buzz).

Page 114 of Full Gear, lists two contracts for the 37J1 (A,B) jacket. SWITLIK PARACHUTE, and SIGMUND EISNER CO. 1937,and 1939 respectively. To which Zielinski can be added for the 37J1B (specification dated 1936, and replacing 37J1a of 1932).

 

[Dr H]

This is the label from the contemporaneous 37S3 by Switlik, which is more akin to the Buzz version.

 

[Grant]

Dr. H, thanks for posting the cool pics of rare 1930's USN coveralls. Interesting that both Switlik Parachute and Michael A. Zielinski Co were based in Trenton, NJ. Since the 37J1 was made from jungle cloth, makes you wonder of they didn't also produce the later N-1 deck jacket.