Bill Kelso : French cyclist jacket "Luftwaffe" ?

[Kermit3D]

On Bill Kelso's Facebook page, I just saw this :

"Proud to announce new release, the French cyclist jacket."

 

[Kermit3D]

I found some other information. It is a collaboration between Bill Kelso and the Japanese shop MUSHMANS.

This jacket has been adapted to "modern" cuts and is much too long. This ruins the typical look of cyclist jackets (IMHO).
The pockets are also strange... I'm not saying it never existed, but it's not what you would expect.
I like the leather they used. The grain and color are nice.
The metal buckle also looks good.

The price is : $1500

Link to the MUSHMANS page :

今シーズンの力作予約受付開始！Bill Kelso×MUSHMANS French Cyclist Jacket "Luftwaffe" | MUSHMANS BLOG | マッシュマンズ ブログ

越谷の アメカジ ショップ、MUSHMANS（マッシュマンズ）には、日本特有の物づくりとアメリカンクロージングの融合した、現代生き続ける「アメカジ」があります。アメカジ通販もこちらから。ブログ更新中！

blog.mushmans.com

French Cyclist Leather Jacket "Luftwaffe" Victory Capeskin Seal Brown - MUSHMANS ONLINE SHOP | アメカジ通販 マッシュマンズ オンラインショップ

現代生き続ける「アメカジ」を通販する、MUSHMANS(マッシュマンズ) オンラインショップ。取扱ブランドは、JELADO,RAINBOW COUNTRY,TOYS McCOY,THE FEW,BUZZ RICKSON'S,SUGAR CANE,CHESWICK,Dry Bones,SKULL JEANS,White's他多数！

shop.mushmans.com

Some photos :

 

[Kermit3D]

 

[Enigma1938]

It's a mixture between classic French cyclist jacket and eastmans Luftwaffe jacket.

 

[Enigma1938]

I dunno why they choose the slash pocket style, they would have done better with the classic flapped pockets imho

 

[mulceber]

I agree with the observations above. I can only imagine that the alterations (different pockets, longer torso) must have been at Mushman's behest. BK is, if anything, known for having their jackets being on the short side (at least in the larger sizes), so I can't imagine they chose to make the jacket long. And I've no doubt they would have chosen the classic flapped pockets, if left to their own devices.

I imagine someone who was interested in an FC jacket could approach them about doing an accurate version.

 

[Enigma1938]

I agree with the observations above. I can only imagine that the alterations (different pockets, longer torso) must have been at Mushman's behest. BK is, if anything, known for having their jackets being on the short side (at least in the larger sizes), so I can't imagine they chose to make the jacket long. And I've no doubt they would have chosen the classic flapped pockets, if left to their own devices.

I imagine someone who was interested in an FC jacket could approach them about doing an accurate version.

For that price they call for their inaccurate FC jacket you can order a nearly perfect one from pilot ...

 

[CBI]

I'm sure MushMans would actually like to SELL these jackets so the "concessions/changes" for the modern customer make sense. This is a vintage "inspired" jacket. Great photos.

 

[Kermit3D]

I wonder if this is a jacket that can be found at the Bill Kelso cathalogue or if it is just a jacket sold by MUSHMANS.
The choice of slanted side pockets comes from the original that was copied. A rare model with slanted pockets, not really representative of this type of jacket. I even wonder if it is not a post-ww2 model.

Here is the picture of the copied model (notice how it is short and much better proportioned), visible on the blog :

Concerning the length, I think it's more or less the same approach as for the ELC "Hartmann" jacket: to allow to wear this jacket easily with modern pants and to avoid dozens of returns from customers who had not anticipated this detail (I myself had not anticipated this detail ).

 

[Enigma1938]

... I even wonder if it is not a post-ww2 model....

Im sure Brice (pilot) will know

 

[CombatWombat]

I actually like this jacket's length (should fit my arms well)....I wish it had the pebbled button pocket flaps though

 

[Nickb123]

Is it in stock or is it just ordered as a custom order?

 

[Kermit3D]

On the sales page it is written that you can order now

 

[CBI]

the "longer" length is a more practical option for today's wardrobe

 

[ausreenactor]

the "longer" length is a more practical option for today's wardrobe

Trousers were up at the waist. Not at the hips like today?

 

[CombatWombat]

I am lucky and tend to have quite a few trousers that sit at a natural waist rather than the hips...... thank god the m-51 wool trousers are still a thing too

 

[CBI]

yes, in re pants cuts