Amelia Earhart Flight Jacket Reproduction - The Aviatrix

[Skyhawk]

This is true but the proper zipper and label do finish off the details of the jacket and make it more authentic. Important for people who are not "Dumbed down public" as you say.

I appreciate the desire to see photos of the process. There are no production photos to show at this time. We haven't even cut the leather for the test jacket yet. As I said, no point in making up a test jacket until I have all the pieces. We don't start on jackets and leave them incomplete for months while waiting on parts. It's just not the way we work and is not a good MFG practice IMO.

It is a waste of materials and time to make up a test jacket that would basically be incomplete and not accurate. The jacket would be a throw away exploratory jacket, probably not sellable, and I could not even take detail photos to use because the details would be incorrect. I would just have to make another one to install the proper parts.

It is a long process, making a new pattern and building a jacket. As a MFG I have to weigh out my options of how to create the jacket and get it into production as cost effectively as possible. The fewer test jackets the better because the knits, liners, leather, and labor all cost money. It is just not cost effective to make up 2 or 3 test jackets when you can wait and just make 1 complete one. Hopefully you learn what you need to from the 1st test jacket, and make the necessary changes to move it into production. Hopefully your first production jacket is correct and doesn't wind up being your 2nd test jacket, but it happens.

I will post more photos when they become available.

All The Best,
Jay

 

[bseal]

Question or two pertaining the Headwind label that has required numerous revisions:

If the actual flight jacket either crash landed or was captured by the Japanese with its wearer, what accurate reproduction label are you in the process of creating? And how did you obtain an original to copy?

 

[Bombing IP]

QUOTE [These jackets are reproductions of civilian flight jackets from a prolific flight gear maker in the 1920-30s.] QUOTE

So who would that be and do you have a period catalog page of the AE jacket that you are using as a build guide . How sure are you that this jacket she wore was from said prolific maker . Remember she was a wealthy person who could afford to have her clothes custom made , it could be a one off that she wore .This was not uncommon in the explorer days companies making clothes for safaris ,artic adventures , flying, fishing ,etc etc . Even in the military officers had there uniforms custom made by bespoke tailors this was matter of fact . I really do not see this woman buying from a retail store ,and how many women were buying flying clothes men certainly were .So if she wanted a jacket its conceivable it was custom made because it was not available ,even the men's market would have been a very small niche market for the adventurous rich .

BIP

 

[Skyhawk]

Question or two pertaining the Headwind label that has required numerous revisions:

If the actual flight jacket either crash landed or was captured by the Japanese with its wearer, what accurate reproduction label are you in the process of creating? And how did you obtain an original to copy?

Now that is a great question!

So how do you figure out who made the jacket and what label was inside, when the jacket is missing and only one was made?

You hit the history books and internet and find out who was making similar jackets at the time. Then out of those companies you narrow it down to who was supplying her and the other aviation explorers with equipment for their flights.

I arrived at two possibilities. AG Spalding & Bros. was a prolific supplier of aviation equipment and clothing at the time. They also outfitted Lindbergh and Admiral Bird on their historic flights. Spalding had a few similar model jackets so it is certainly a good possibility that the maker was A.G. Spalding & Bros.

Original: Repro:

This label has been a huge challenge to get right. We are close but you can see that there are missing areas circled in red.

The other possible company is Air Associates Inc. Also a big supplier of flight gear and jackets at the time. Air Assoc. is actually documented to have supplied Earhart with flight gear as stated by Lehman Bros. in the Harvard School Of Business archives:
https://www.library.hbs.edu/hc/lehman/company.html?company=air_associates_inc

With this evidence and the fact that Air Assoc. made similar jackets at the time, I am leaning toward an Air Assoc. label.
It's not that simple though because Air Associates had at least 3 different labels between the late 20's and 40's. So some further research was required and I found that from 1928 - the mid 30's Air Assoc. expanded from just the home base in Long Island NY to branches in NY, CA, and IL. So this would be the correct label for the time period:

Original: Repro:

This one is pretty simple to recreate except for the stitching style on the text. The label Co says that the style can be replicated when the label goes into production, so it does not show up in the design mockup, but it will be stitched that way when it is woven.

So there you have it. A bit of an inside look at our label process and how we arrived at which label to use. I am making up both labels and they will also be used in some other upcoming projects that I am very excited to complete!

All The Best,
Jay

 

[Bombing IP]

This is a label she designed for fashion collection in the 1930s which did not succeed ,it was to raise funds to help pay for her flying .Also one of her other jackets still exists in the Buffalo Bill museum .Here is the link
https://centerofthewest.org/2014/03/17/plane-vanished-flight-jacket-didnt/
May be an email to them asking who the maker is would help .

BIP

 

[Bombing IP]

Her other jacket is in the National Air and Space Museum ,perhaps they can tell you the make of the jacket .This may lead us to to think she had a special fondness for a certain maker .

BIP

 

[Bombing IP]

Her designs incorporated features linking the products to flying ,like ball bearing buttons and airplane buttons on jackets . Even her label had a red plane soaring up into the sky .

BIP

 

[Skyhawk]

Cool stuff! I knew about her clothing line. The cloth jackets and dresses. I had seen the A&S museum jacket, actually in person, but the other one I hadn't seen yet. It appears the two museum jackets are similar to each other but they don't really resemble the jacket I am reproducing. Her jacket that was lost resembled offerings from A.G. Spalding and Air Associates at the time much more than the museum jackets do. Also with the confirmed fact that she was already getting gear from Air Associates who made jackets, helmets, gloves, etc. It's a pretty good chance she had them make it for her.

It's interesting though and I will try and find out who the makers were.

Thanks,
Jay

 

[Bombing IP]

She also designed a practical two-piece flying suit with interlocking “9s” for the Ninety-Nines, although it was never formally adopted. The suit is on display in our Pioneers of Flight gallery.


<img typeof="foaf:Image" src="https://airandspace.si.edu/sites/default/files/styles/body_large/public/media-assets/Untitled.png?itok=4axs2KEc" width="910" height="648" alt="Black and white group photo" />
Group photograph of many of the charter members of the women pilots' organization The Ninety-Nines, photographed seated at Curtiss Field, Valley Stream, Long Island, New York, on November 2, 1929. Image: NASM 2005-7753

In 1935, Phoebe Omlie said in an article for the National Aeronautics Magazine that Amelia was, “all woman and one that the other women of America can proudly put up as an example of their contribution to the progress of this great generation.”

In a conversation with Louise Thaden, Amelia once said, “We can fly — you know that.” But Amelia was not satisfied keeping this knowledge between herself and other female aviators. Even though proving to the world that women were smart, capable flyers was often like butting their heads “into a stone wall,” Amelia and her peers in the Ninety-Nines decided to change society’s perception of women through flight and, occasionally, through fashion.


So we see that in the early days there was no provision for ladies flight gear ,and Amelia was the 16th lady to receive a flying license ,so not a big market for the flight gear makers ( a 99 meeting in long island NY this is who was flying at that time ).But her design of jacket as seen above would be designed with the aid of her flight experience ,this is her interpretation of what a good jacket should be for flying . I still think her jacket was custom made , she certainly had access to the production source while she was designing her line of fashion in 1933 . And none of the companies were making ladies Aero wear at the time . So where is the confirmed fact that she bought from Air Associates ? .
Charter Members
On November 2, 1929, twenty-six women gathered at Curtiss Airport, Valley Stream, New York. The weather wasn't favorable and most drove in or came by train. The first order of business was the selection of Neva Paris as temporary chairman, then the presentation of flowers to Viola Gentry, who was recovering from a crash following an endurance record attempt. The women conducted their business in a hangar above the din of a Curtiss Challenger engine running up as the work of the mechanics proceeded around them. Tea was served from a tool box wagon on wheels.

Eligibility and purpose were quickly decided upon. Membership would be open to any woman with a pilot's license, and the purpose was "good fellowship, jobs, and a central office and files on women in aviation". Choosing a name was a little harder. Some offerings were The Climbing Vines, Noisy Birdwomen, Homing Pigeons and Gadflies. Amelia Earhart and Jean Davis Hoyt put a stop to the nonsense proposing the name be taken from the sum total of charter members. Thus the group was momentarily the 86s, then the 97s and finally the 99s. The name/number stopped at 99, but the membership thereafter grew worldwide.

These first 99 women became our charter members.

** - Status unknown.

Last Name
First Name
Maiden Name
Year Died
License
Bio
Last Name First Name Maiden Name Year Died License Bio
Alexander Mary C. Held 1955 8561
Bacon Mary Ellen 1936 9969
Bancroft Barbara W. 6200
Blake Perry Bernice G. Blake 1996 9138
Bridewell Ruth T. unknown 6793
Brown Margery H. 1961 6945
Brown Myrtle 1934 7701
Brown Vera 1976 10591
Burleigh Thelma R. Johnston 1982 6761
Caldwell Myrtle 1992 7718
Chassey Irene J. Green 1991 8587
Chittenden Bonnie Whitman 8589
Clark Marion Clendaniel 1992 6763
Combes Esther Vance 1983 3180
Cox Helen V. Cohecy Bikle 1992 7767
Davidson ** Jean 9400
Dodge Jane unknown 7930
Doig ** Margery L. Greenberg 10073
Earhart Amelia 1937 5716
Elder Ruth Camp King 1977 675
Elliott Thelma Giesin 1991 7732
Fenno Sarah S. unknown 9920
Ferguson Frances Leitch Leistikow 8695
Fiset Adeline F. Anderson 1992 8613
Fleet Phyllis Nelson Crary 2003 8097
Foltz Edith Stearns 1956 5600
Fox Ila Loetscher 1999 7738
Gentry Viola 1988 1822
Gillis Fay Wells 2002 9497
Goddard Phyllis M. Penfield 1984 5487
Goodrich Mary H. Jenson 2004 9410
Gorby Melba Beard 1987 9116
Grey Geraldine Loffredo unknown 1788
Hall Candis I. Hitzig Gullino 2003 6500
Hall Sacha Martin 1992 2500
Halliburton ** Ruth E. Seitz 8031
Harrell Frances Marsalis 1934 7346
Heath Lady Mary Williams 1935 5333
Hoyt Jean D. 1988 4851
Huyler Betty Gillies 1998 6525
Johnson Katherine F. 1967 7793
Joseph Angela L. 1930 8947
Kauffman Mildred E. Workman 1932 6447
Kelly Betsy Weeks 1985 9948
Kelly Madeline B. Royle 1997 5919
Kenny Cecelia Roy 1980 7143
Kenyon Cecil W. "Teddy" 1985 9949
Klingensmith Florence E. 1933 7096
Kunz Opal Logan 1967 6830
Lange Eva Mae 1963 8189
LaRene Jean Foote 1960 5700
Lay Eleanor B. Ross 1981 8343
Leh Dorothea Backenstoe 1955 3961
Lesser Marjorie May VanAntwerp 1969 7200
Lovelace ** Ethel 5766
Lutz Lola L. 1968 7806
MacDonald Mildred H. Chase 1982 7455
Manning Helen Mathews 1963 9241
Mathews ** Olivia "Keet" Maugham 9159
McConnell Edwina Thro 1992 7500
McCulloch Retha Crittenden 1993 5260
Miller Jessie Maude 1973 6014
Mills ** Agnes A. 5711
Nelson Sylvia Anthony 1984 6456
Nichols Ruth Rowland 1960 326
Nicholson Mary Webb 1943 9562
Noyes Blanche Wilcox 1981 6540
O'Donnell Gladys 1973 6608
O'Mara ** Margaret Fzandee 2175
Omlie Phoebe Fairgrave 1975 199 View
Paris Neva Findley 1930 5073
Paxon Peggy J. 1992 8551
Peacock Achsa B. Donnels 2003 3289
Perry Margaret C. Manser 1951 4049
Place ** Elizabeth F. 8716
Porter ** Lillian Metcalf 4229
Rasche Thea 1971 6700
Ray ** Mathilda J. 2/15/1992 7591
Rothholz Meta 1974 10169
Ruland Gertrude Oberlander 1972 8322
Shankle Joan Fay Davis 1965 7838 View
Spangle Hazel Mark 1992 9260
Stewart Ruth Woerner 1932 5375
Stinaff Mildred 1931 10491
Stinson Marjorie C. 1975 1600
Stocker Dorothy L. unknown 7973
Thaden Louise McPhetridge 1979 1943
Thomas Margaret Warren 2004 6180 View
Tier Nancy Hopkins 1997 5889
Trout Evelyn Bobbi 2003 2613
Von Mach Mary E. 1980 4117
Walker Vera Dawn 1978 5265
Walsh ** Wilma L. 4272
Webb ** E. Ruth 8240
White Nora Alma 1931 9270
Willhite Nellie Zabel 1991 8242
Willis Margaret Smith 1971 5018
Wood Josephine C. Wallingford 2004 9129
Worley ** Alberta B. Homan 9286
Last Name
First Name
Maiden Name
Year Died
License
Bio

History
99s in Aviation History Charter Members Conference Dates Women in Aviation History Air Racing Air Traffic Control Expanded Horizons

Still going today

BIP


I

 

[Bombing IP]

Miss Elinor Smith, 17 years old, waving to the crowd of thousands, just after she landed here after establishing a new women’s flight endurance record, 26 hours, 21
minutes, 32 seconds, over four hours better than that of Mrs. McPhetridge of Los Angeles circa 1928.

This is an interesting jacket that pre dates the A-2 type similar pockets and collar but snap closure . Looks by the leather creasing it is cape leather .

BIP

 

[Bombing IP]

Aviators Baroness Von Schoenberg Kranefeldt and Christel Schultes before the aerial raid between Europe and New York in 1928 in Bavaria, Germany.

Similar them to the cloth A1 type

BIP

 

[Bombing IP]

Note the piece of string on the hat !.
Circa 1920
BIP

 

[Smithy]

Great photos, especially love the one with the two German girls.

 

[Bombing IP]

Nancy Love
Nancy Harkness Love learned to fly in Houghton, Michigan, in 1930 at the age of 16. She was educated at Milton Academy and Vassar College and earned her commercial pilot's license while in college. In 1935 she was one of three women hired by the Bureau of Air Commerce to work on its air-marking project. Married to Robert Love in 1936, she discovered on her West Coast honeymoon that Beechcraft Company had entered her in the Amelia Earhart Trophy Race at the National Air Races in Los Angeles. With no experience in pylon flying, she managed to finish in fifth place. She also worked for Gwinn Aircar Company, a job that included flight testing a new tricycle landing gear. Love and her husband were running a successful aircraft sales business in 1940 when she began flying American airplanes to Canada, for shipment to France. With the approach of World War II, Love recognized the coming need for pilots to ferry aircraft and identified highly qualified women pilots in the U.S. who could perform such duties. In September 1942, the Army Air Corps' Air Transport Command approved the creation of a temporary, civilian women's flying corps, the Women's Auxiliary Ferrying Squadron (WAFS), under the direction of Nancy Love. Initially, Jacqueline Cochran's Women's Flying Training Detachment classes graduated into the WAFS. In 1943, the Women Airforce Service Pilots (WASPs) combined these two organizations, with Cochran as the overall director; Love remained in charge of the WAFS unit, although under Cochran. The WAFS moved thousands of military aircraft form factories and air bases around the country with an enviable record of safety and professionalism. After the war, Love continued to fly for business and pleasure.
I will post some more then if you like em .

 

[Smithy]

Once again wonderful pics!

 

[Bombing IP]

 

[Skyhawk]

Yes great photos! I had found the same history on Earhart. Amazing lady for sure. When she got her Pilot Certificate, she was #16. As you stated, not much flight gear for women at that time. However, when she showed up in that jacket is was in the mid 30's. By then A.G. Spalding had a whole line of women's aviation clothing and gear. Also Air Associates Inc. was in full swing as an up and coming flight clothing and gear manufacturer making similar jackets.

I still think she probably had that jacket made by Air Associates or Spalding. Is there any evidence of her ever making a leather jacket? All I have found was the cloth items.

Here is some women's Spalding gear from the 20's-30's out of a historic catalog:

These are more in the style of the museum jackets.

Her later jacket we are reproducing is much closer to the style that Air Associates was making at the time:

All The Best,
Jay

 

[Silver Surfer]

this whole thread is one of the coolest, most informative i have read in a long time. thanx guys for all of the info and pix. oh, and who doesnt like a gal in leather? [rhetorical]

 

[bseal]

Rumor has it, her jacket was manufactured by quite possibly, Scully.

 

[fleet16b]

Miss Elinor Smith, 17 years old, waving to the crowd of thousands, just after she landed here after establishing a new women’s flight endurance record, 26 hours, 21
minutes, 32 seconds, over four hours better than that of Mrs. McPhetridge of Los Angeles circa 1928.

This is an interesting jacket that pre dates the A-2 type similar pockets and collar but snap closure . Looks by the leather creasing it is cape leather .

BIP

Looks like she puked out the window at least once during the flight