Roughwear said:John Chapman and others in the USA have identified the maker.
http://www.goodwearleather.com/pages/a2_18246.html
Roughwear said:I have seen pics of civi A2s from this maker and this jacket has almost all the same details. So I'm 99% certain who the maker is. I would suggest you contact JC for more information.
BTW JC is 100% spot on about the no name Cable. I own a 27753 jacket and a Cable from their first contract with a named label and the house features are much the same. It is worth pointing out that there are not only differences within the same contract run from the same maker as well as some differences between contracts from the same maker. Just look at the four Dubow contracts. Obviously documentary evidence would nail it for sure. I'm very happy to accept the Knopf attribution. As you have serious doubts I would be interested to hear about your alternatives.
Perry Sportswear, Newburgh, New York, Jacket, leather, Type A-2 25,000
J.A. Dubow, Chicago, Ill Jacket, Leather, Type A-2 35,000
buzzthetower said:Personally, I cannot prove that Knopf made that A-2 contract. I have seen clear photographs of two jackets they made for the civilian market and the details are identical between the two (details that would be highly surprising to find between two makers, along with the overall shape of the shoulders, sleeves, and most importantly, the collar). Yes, it could have been a contract awarded to another company. I would love to see proof that it were another company.
S.H. Knopf of Boston was making jackets in WWII. I own a D-1 sheepskin jacket that they made, and will offer copies of it.
I would be surprised if they were not making many other types of clothing, just as we see companies like United Sheeplined making M-43 field jackets (I'm not saying they did, but this was a common trend among makers).
We could get a definitive answer from Charles DiSipio, as he spent a large amount of time going through the National Archives to find the original contracts of A-2 jackets. Please don't email him asking for this data, as his intention is to write a book, rather than to give data out through email. We don't know when such a venture make be completed, but that was what I heard would possibly happen.
We also don't know that Fried, Ostermann made any A-2s, but I've seen one document that started the A-2 contract process with them. We have no proof that the 27791 contract was made by Doniger, but I would be impressed to see that proven otherwise. We have no proof that Cable Raincoat made the 27753 contract, and there are subtle little differences between Cable and 27753 jackets (just as there are differences between the Rough Wear 16159 and 27752 contracts). The 1756 contract looks a lot like a Perry to me, but no proof is really offered.
Why were some labels made without the company name? Were final details about the contract not known at the time that labels needed to be produced? That may be why, but we'll never know until someone can show contract details to be sure.
Roughwear said:This is an excellent and measured reply John. The construction details of the 1756 jacket are remarkably similar to Perry A2s. There were only three contractor who made A2s in 1944 from when the 1756 contract was issued-Dubow, Bronco and Perry. There is a document that adds great weight to the Perry argument.
It is dated 13 June, 1944, from Maj. Gen B.E. Meyers, Office, Assistant Chief of Air Staff, Materiel, Maintenance and Distribution shows the following information about A2s
Perry Sportswear, Newburgh, New York, Jacket, leather, Type A-2 25,000
J.A. Dubow, Chicago, Ill Jacket, Leather, Type A-2 35,000
So the Dubow contract would have been the 1755 contract and the next contract was the 1756 which I suggest was made by Perry. It would seem that both contract were placed on 13th June 1944, with the Bronco contract placed shortly afterwards.