Dr H
Well-Known Member
Perry Sportswear (of Newburgh, New York) produced two A-2 contracts from the fiscal year of 1942. The precise dating of the contracts have been discussed at different times on the forum and although the information is contradictory, it appears from those with better knowledge of the order chronology that the older, smaller goatskin contract (W535ac23377) preceded the later, larger horsehide contract (order number 42-16175-P).
Both contracts retained a collar stand, nipple snaps, and a Conmar zipper. Characteristic of these patterns are the short, rounded collar points and pocket flaps with a shallow curve to the bottom edge and stitch lines that are spaced further from the edge of the flap than is typical. There is open box stitching reinforcement at top corners of the pockets. Although one of my previous 23377s had a three-piece inner wind flap, neither of these sports this feature.
I have finally had the opportunity to examine an example of each contract (in a size 44) alongside each other. Both jackets are essentially original, although the knitted cuffs of the 42-16175-P are older replacements. I have obtained some older, better-matched knits from John Chapman and will be replacing these in the near future. The 23377 lacks a manufacturer’s label and the GW reproduction will be added soon.
The photographs were taken this afternoon outside under overcast skies. Both jackets are notionally russet in colour, but I was most surprised to see the degree of contrast between the two hides: the goatskin is remarkably red in colour (a deep russet) moreover the knits are very red. This is a feature that I have seen before on my previous depot refurbished 23377, and presumably reflects oxidation/degradation of the dye; the 42-16175-P does not show the same colour, being much closer to a mid-brown with a reddish tint.
Both jackets have their original Conmar zips, which are a common feature on Perry Sportswear products, although Crowns were also known (and a previous 23377 that I owned sported a double marked Talon, although this had been through a depot refurbishment). The 42-16175-P was issued at some point in its history to Lieutenant H Cornsweet, whose name is written on the lining along with the date 1943 and also the stamp ‘Wetherby’.
For the record, the statistics of the jackets:
23377
Weight = 1.2 kg (2 lb 10 oz)
Shoulder width = 47.5 cm
Pit-to-pit = 59 cm
Front length = 58 cm
Back length = 67 cm (including collar stand)
Arm length = 56 cm (without knitted cuff)
Epaulettes = 16.5 cm
Collar width = 7.5 cm
Pocket width = 15 cm
Pocket depth = 16 cm
Pocket flap depth = 7.5 cm
42-16175-P
Weight = 1.36 kg (2 lb 15.5 oz)
Shoulder width = 47.5 cm
Pit-to-pit = 59 cm
Front length = 58 cm
Back length = 64 cm (including collar stand)
Arm length = 55 cm (without knitted cuff)
Epaulettes = 17 cm
Collar width = 7 cm
Pocket width = 14 cm
Pocket depth = 16 cm
Pocket flap depth = 7.5 cm
The goatskin jacket is markedly thinner hide and appreciably lighter in weight; it is also longer in the body. The collar does stand significantly higher, being somewhat wider in profile and with snaps placed in different positions compared with the horsehide example.
Finally, the photograph of the rear of the collar shows that most unusual characteristic of the Perry – the offset hanger. The label lines up with the centre of the collar, but all of the four Perrys that I have owned have the hanger offset. Why? I guess we’ll never know…
Both contracts retained a collar stand, nipple snaps, and a Conmar zipper. Characteristic of these patterns are the short, rounded collar points and pocket flaps with a shallow curve to the bottom edge and stitch lines that are spaced further from the edge of the flap than is typical. There is open box stitching reinforcement at top corners of the pockets. Although one of my previous 23377s had a three-piece inner wind flap, neither of these sports this feature.
I have finally had the opportunity to examine an example of each contract (in a size 44) alongside each other. Both jackets are essentially original, although the knitted cuffs of the 42-16175-P are older replacements. I have obtained some older, better-matched knits from John Chapman and will be replacing these in the near future. The 23377 lacks a manufacturer’s label and the GW reproduction will be added soon.
The photographs were taken this afternoon outside under overcast skies. Both jackets are notionally russet in colour, but I was most surprised to see the degree of contrast between the two hides: the goatskin is remarkably red in colour (a deep russet) moreover the knits are very red. This is a feature that I have seen before on my previous depot refurbished 23377, and presumably reflects oxidation/degradation of the dye; the 42-16175-P does not show the same colour, being much closer to a mid-brown with a reddish tint.
Both jackets have their original Conmar zips, which are a common feature on Perry Sportswear products, although Crowns were also known (and a previous 23377 that I owned sported a double marked Talon, although this had been through a depot refurbishment). The 42-16175-P was issued at some point in its history to Lieutenant H Cornsweet, whose name is written on the lining along with the date 1943 and also the stamp ‘Wetherby’.
For the record, the statistics of the jackets:
23377
Weight = 1.2 kg (2 lb 10 oz)
Shoulder width = 47.5 cm
Pit-to-pit = 59 cm
Front length = 58 cm
Back length = 67 cm (including collar stand)
Arm length = 56 cm (without knitted cuff)
Epaulettes = 16.5 cm
Collar width = 7.5 cm
Pocket width = 15 cm
Pocket depth = 16 cm
Pocket flap depth = 7.5 cm
42-16175-P
Weight = 1.36 kg (2 lb 15.5 oz)
Shoulder width = 47.5 cm
Pit-to-pit = 59 cm
Front length = 58 cm
Back length = 64 cm (including collar stand)
Arm length = 55 cm (without knitted cuff)
Epaulettes = 17 cm
Collar width = 7 cm
Pocket width = 14 cm
Pocket depth = 16 cm
Pocket flap depth = 7.5 cm
The goatskin jacket is markedly thinner hide and appreciably lighter in weight; it is also longer in the body. The collar does stand significantly higher, being somewhat wider in profile and with snaps placed in different positions compared with the horsehide example.
Finally, the photograph of the rear of the collar shows that most unusual characteristic of the Perry – the offset hanger. The label lines up with the centre of the collar, but all of the four Perrys that I have owned have the hanger offset. Why? I guess we’ll never know…
