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“A Better Fighting Garment…” 3.0 - The Guide to U.S. Navy Intermediate Leather Flight Jackets

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mulceber

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PREFACE

In December 2021 Phil, Wei and I posted a thread entitled “A Better Fighting Garment…” - A Beginner’s Guide to the US Navy’s WWII-era and later Intermediate Flight Jackets. We were looking to fill what we perceived was a gap in the knowledge base on the forum and the original thread was written as a “Beginners Guide”, then with more updates version 2.0 became the “Revised Guide”, and now with a much updated version 3.0 it becomes simply “The Guide”. We were very grateful for the help of a number of Forum members and others in developing the content.

Since our Beginners Guide was first posted the thread has inspired discussion on all manner of points associated with these Navy jackets. In version 3.0 we moved away from sources, such as conventional reference books, and focused on using the underlying, verifiable evidence, such as the original government specifications, and records of the contracts. The purpose of this shift was to remove any speculation or, at a minimum, expressly identify where it may exist rather than repeat stories that may be unfounded. This somewhat reduces what we can say, but emerging documents from various government archives have shifted our narrative and exposed failings in the conventional reference books that are used in this hobby.

We have made the decision to retain that original thread, unaltered, as a Discussion thread, along with version 2.0, although the text has been grayed out to avoid confusion. Whilst this may appear confusing we have concluded that this preserves the transparency of the information as it emerged. Following the pattern established by the A-2 Jacket thread, we will also include a post at the very end summarizing the changes from version 2.0 to 3.0, so that readers who want to be informed, but have already gone through one – or two: yikes! – Navy jacket threads in the past can have everything summarized for them in one concise post.

We encourage the use of the discussion thread, rather than this resource, as the place for discussion to develop the knowledge of the forum so that this sticky can remain tightly focused and readily searchable.

On a personal level I would like to give @33-1729 special credit for his inexhaustible spirit in digging these records out of the archives, as well as Phil and Wei for their readiness to dive into this topic yet again.
 

mulceber

Moderator
INTRODUCTION

There have been various threads on VLJ which have listed the US Navy contracts from the M-422 to the current G-1 series of leather flying jackets. This version 3.0 of our original thread updates the information we now have to sit alongside the Mighty A-2 thread as a resource on the Forum. The original thread and our acknowledgements have been retained and left open as a discussion thread for members interested in Navy jackets and we hope that it can be both a resource in its own right and space where issues and nuances of this long series of jackets can be debated.

We remain indebted to Mr. Roger Moore’s original resource. His website is now defunct, but see this link for screenshots and online archives of his website.

We have sought to identify and acknowledge references and sources as best we can. Putting together a guide to this series of jackets was not for the faint of heart and Version 3.0 seeks to update and amend the information we now have. As before any errors or omissions are ours.

In compiling this guide we have sought advice and opinion from Dave Sheeley and John Chapman at various points of uncertainty or ambiguity. They have, without fail, kindly helped us to understand what there is to know about the design and evolution of the Navy’s intermediate leather flight jacket. John’s US Flight Jacket CD is an invaluable source of information, particularly for features distinguishing individual contracts.

We’d like to thank all of our fellow Forum members who have helped us by sharing their knowledge and for making our original thread as interesting a discussion as it has become. We hope that continues.

If you have more information please do share that in the original – now Discussion – thread first so that this thread can remain a tightly focused sticky. Thanks !
 

mulceber

Moderator
AN OVERVIEW

Discussion of jacket types in this hobby, among Navy jackets and beyond, frequently boils down to a discussion of hard and fast differences between jacket types: B-15 vs. B-15A, L-2A vs. L2B, etc. This impulse is understandable, but it actually doesn’t get us very far when discussing Navy jackets, especially the early ones.

Manufacturers were supplied with the pertinent information to construct the jackets, but not every item is precisely defined so their manufacturing techniques, methods, and available component supplies, whatever the source, influenced the details of each specific jacket contract. There are many cases, like the Willis & Geiger M-422a, which has much less in common with other jackets in that series than it does with W&G’s previous M-422 contract.

In short, when you’re looking at Navy Flight Jackets, it pays to look less for differences between jacket specifications and more for differences between contracts & manufacturers – and the reason why will make more sense as you read about what the specifications may or may not have changed from one contract to another.

Table of Contents:​

  • M-422 [28-Mar-1940]
    • WILLIS AND GEIGER INC. CONTRACT-No. N156s16957
    • WILLIS AND GEIGER INC. CONTRACT-No. S-74892
    • Switlik Parachute and Equipment Co. CONTRACT-No. 76640
    • Monarch Mfg. Company CONTRACT-No. 79633
  • M-422a [1-Oct-1940]
    • WILLIS AND GEIGER INC. CONTRACT NO. 85956
    • MONARCH MFG. CO. NOS- 85958
    • GORDON & FERGUSON CO. CONTRACT NO. 88860
    • WILLIS AND GEIGER INC. CONTRACT-NOs.290A & NXs-290
    • GORDON & FERGUSON CO. CONTRACT NO. NOs.416-A & NXs 416
    • FRIED, OSTERMAN CO. CONTRACT NO. 1405-A
    • FRIED, OSTERMAN CO. CONTRACT NO. 1406-A & NXs 1406 EXT. A
    • EDMUND T. CHURCH CO. INC. CONTRACT No. NXs-5133
    • H. & L. BLOCK CONTRACT No. NXS-5134 & NXSa-5134
 
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mulceber

Moderator
  • AN-J-3 [15-Apr-1943]
  • AN-J-3A [1943]
    • H.& L.BLOCK CONTRACT NO.N288s-20559
    • MONARCH MFG.CO. MILWAUKEE CONTRACT NO. N288s-20570
    • ARNOFF MFG. COMPANY CONTRACT NO. N288xsa 24248
    • BOGEN & TENENBAUM CONTRACT NO. N288s-24331
    • AMERICAN SPORTSWEAR CO. CONTRACT NO.N288s-24332
    • GORDON & FERGUSON CO. CONTRACT NO. N288s-24333
    • BURJAC SPORTSWEAR INC. CONTRACT #N288s-24369
    • AMERICAN SPORTSWEAR CO. CONTRACT NO.N288s-28627
    • WILLIS AND GEIGER INC. CONTRACT -N288s28628
    • MONARCH MFG. CO. MILWAUKEE CONTRACT NO. N288xsa-28665
    • GORDON & FERGUSON CO. CONTRACT NO. N288s - 32277
    • BOGEN & TENENBAUM CONTRACT NO. N 288s32281
    • WILLIS AND GEIGER INC. CONTRACT -N288s32357
    • MONARCH MFG. CO. MILWAUKEE CONTRACT No.N288s-32358
    • WILLIS AND GEIGER INC. CONTRACT-N288s-35805
    • L.W.FOSTER SPORTSWEAR CO.INC. CONT. NO. N383s1035
  • 55-J-14 [10-May-1949]
    • BURJAC SPORTSWEAR INC.CONTRACT No N383s-5299
    • L.W.FOSTER SPORTSWEAR CO. INC. N383S-10427
    • L.W.FOSTER SPORTSWEAR CO. INC. CONTRACT NO. N383s-13120
    • L.W.FOSTER SPORTSWEAR CO. INC. CONTRACT NO. N383s-20445
    • AVIATORS CLOTHING CO., INC. CONTRACT NO. N-383s-22111
    • B.-G. INC. CONTRACT NO. 383s-25923
    • L.W.FOSTER SPORTSWEAR CO. INC. N383S-29897
    • STAR SPORTSWEAR MFG.CO. LYNN, MASS.CONTRACT NO. N383Ss-39943
    • STAR SPORTSWEAR MFG.CO. LYNN, MASS. CONTRACT NO. N383s-51863
    • A. PRITZKER & SONS, INC. CONTRACT NO.N383s-69537
    • L.W.FOSTER SPORTSWEAR CO. INC.CONTRACT NO.N-383s-96273
 

mulceber

Moderator
  • MIL-J-7823 [21-Nov-1951]
    • L.W.FOSTER SPORTSWEAR CO., INC CONTRACT NO.N383s-74471
    • MONARCH MFG. CO. CONTRACT NO. N383s-80667
    • WERBER SPORTSWEAR, INC. CONTRACT NO.383S-88886
    • A. PRITZKER & SONS, INC.CONTRACT NO. N383S-319A
    • J.A.DUBOW SPORTING GOODS CORP. CONTRACT NO. N383S-4765A
    • J.A.DUBOW SPORTING GOODS CORP. CONTRACT NO. N383S-4833A
    • CAGLECO SPORTSWEAR CONTRACT NO N383s-9211A
    • CAGLECO SPORTSWEAR CONTRACT NO N383s-14722A
    • SPECIFICATION MIL-J-7823(AER) & AMEND. #2 L.W. FOSTER SPORTSWEAR CO, INC. CONTRACT N383-22356A
    • L.W. FOSTER SPORTSWEAR CO, INC. CONTRACT N383-22356A
    • CAGLECO SPORTSWEAR CONTRACT NO N383-28657A
    • CAGLECO SPORTSWEAR CONTRACT NO N383-39321A
    • CAGLECO SPORTSWEAR N383 48082A
    • CAGLECO SPORTSWEAR QM(CTM)-144-O.I.-2515-E-57
    • L.W.FOSTER SPORTSWEAR CO., INC CONTRACT NO. DA-36-243-QM(CTM)2134
    • L.W. FOSTER SPORTSWEAR CO., INC. CONTRACT NO.DA-36-243-QM(CTM)2312
    • RALPH EDWARDS SPORTSWEAR CONTRACT NO. QM.(CTM)-2313
  • MIL-J-7823A [28-Nov-1958]
  • MIL-J-7823B [7-Oct-1960]
  • MIL-J-7823C [3-Sept-1963]
  • MIL-J-7823D [16-Apr-1966]
  • MIL-J-7823E [15-Jan-1971]
  • MIL-DIL-7823F [9-Jun-2020]
  • Navy jackets in the movies - “Top Gun” [1986]
  • A Few Concluding Thoughts
  • Works Cited
  • Appendix
  • Summary of Changes from 2.0 to 3.0
 
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