“A Better Fighting Garment…” 3.0 - The Guide to U.S. Navy Intermediate Leather Flight Jackets

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MIL-J-7823 CAGLECO SPORTSWEAR CONTRACT N383-28657A​

Contract Dates: contract dates unknown, but awarded sometime between 1951 and 1958
Cost of the Contract: unknown
Comments on the leather or mouton:
Lining color: brown
Thread: medium brown
Zipper(s): nickel Conmar zipper
Knits: brown single-ply rib-rack knits
General Comments:
Identifying/Distinguishing Details:

• Cagleco details:
  • Small shoulders
  • collars are large and splay out when worn
  • pockets are large and placed close to zip
  • angular windflap
  • high stitch count
• White USN stencil

Cagleco N383-28657A Ex. No. 1:

 

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MIL-J-7823 CAGLECO SPORTSWEAR CONTRACT N383-39321A​

Contract Dates: contract dates unknown, but awarded sometime between 1951 and 1958
Cost of the Contract: unknown
Comments on the leather or mouton:
Lining color: warm brown
Thread: medium brown
Zipper(s): Conmar zipper with blackened slider and nickel zipper chain
Knits: muted brown single-ply rib-rack knits
General Comments:
Identifying/Distinguishing Details:

• Cagleco details:
  • Small shoulders
  • collars are large and splay out when worn
  • pockets are large and placed close to zip
  • angular windflap
  • high stitch count
• White USN stencil

Cagleco N383-39321A Ex. No. 1:

 

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Cagleco N383-39321A Ex. No. 2:

 

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MIL-J-7823 CAGLECO SPORTSWEAR N383-48082A​

Contract Dates: contract dates unknown, but awarded sometime between 1951 and 1958
Cost of the Contract: unknown
Comments on the leather or mouton:
Lining color: brown
Thread: medium brown
Zipper(s): Conmar zipper with blackened slider and nickel zipper chain
Knits: muted brown single-ply rib-rack knits
General Comments:
Identifying/Distinguishing Details:

• Cagleco details:
  • Small shoulders
  • collars are large and splay out when worn
  • pockets are large and placed close to zip
  • angular windflap
  • high stitch count
• White USN stencil

Cagleco N383-48082A:

 

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MIL-J-7823 CAGLECO SPORTSWEAR QM(CTM)-144-O.I.-2515-E-57​

Contract Dates: contract dates unknown, but awarded sometime between 1951 and 1958
Cost of the Contract: unknown
Comments on the leather or mouton:
Lining color: brown
Thread: medium brown
Zipper(s): Conmar zipper with blackened slider and nickel zipper chain
Knits: brown single-ply rib-rack knits
General Comments:
Identifying/Distinguishing Details:

• Cagleco details:
  • Small shoulders
  • collars are large and splay out when worn
  • pockets are large and placed close to zip
  • angular windflap
  • high stitch count
• mouton frequently a dark shade

Cagleco 2515-E-57 Ex. No. 1:

 

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MIL-J-7823 L.W. FOSTER SPORTSWEAR CO., INC. CONTRACT DA-36-243-QM(CTM)2312​

Contract Dates: 28-Apr-1958
Quantities: 37,712 jackets
Comments on the leather or mouton:
Lining color: warm brown
Thread: medium brown
Zipper(s): Conmar zipper with blackened slider and nickel zipper chain
Knits: brown single-ply rib-rack knits
General Comments:

• Subject of a lawsuit between manufacturer and government (contract termination dismissed by Board of Contract Appeals with expected jacket quantity met).

Identifying/Distinguishing Details:

• L.W. Foster second pattern details:
  • Pocket flaps are roughly rectangular with a rounded bottom edge, in contrast to the triangular pocket flaps of Foster’s earlier pattern
  • Wide back like earlier Fosters
  • rounded windflap
  • small collar
• perforated USN stencil in the wind flap with the letters oriented perpendicular to the zipper.

 

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Foster 2312 Ex. No. 1:

 

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Foster 2312 Ex. No. 1, continued:

 

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MIL-J-7823 RALPH EDWARDS SPORTSWEAR CONTRACT QM.(CTM)-2313​

Contract Dates: contract dates unknown, but awarded sometime between April and November of 1958
Cost of the Contract: unknown
Comments on the leather or mouton:
Lining color: warm brown
Thread: dark brown
Zipper(s): Conmar zipper with blackened slider and nickel zipper chain
Knits: dark brown single-ply rib-rack knits
General Comments: Company formerly known as “Cagleco”
Identifying/Distinguishing Details:

• Ralph Edwards (formerly Cagleco) details:
  • Small shoulders
  • collars are large and splay out when worn
  • pockets are large and placed close to zip
  • angular windflap
• high stitch count
• mouton frequently a dark shade

Ralph Edwards 7823 Ex. No. 1:

 

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MIL-J-7823 L.W.FOSTER SPORTSWEAR CO., INC CONTRACT DA-36-243-QM(CTM)2134​

Contract Dates: May 1958
Cost of the Contract:
Quantity: 11,159 jackets (out of 16,328 committed before contract terminated (termination ultimately sustained via Board Of Contract Appeals)
Comments on the leather or mouton:
Lining color: brown
Thread: medium brown
Zipper(s): Conmar zipper with blackened slider and nickel zipper chain
Knits: warm brown single-ply rib-rack knits
General Comments:

• Contract date four weeks after QM(CTM)2312 1958, delivered in 1959
• Subject of a lawsuit between manufacturer and government.

Identifying/Distinguishing Details:

• L.W. Foster second pattern details:
  • Pocket flaps are roughly rectangular with a rounded bottom edge, in contrast to the triangular pocket flaps of Foster’s earlier pattern
  • Wide back like earlier Fosters
  • rounded windflap
  • small collar
• perforated USN stencil in the wind flap with the letters oriented perpendicular to the zipper.

Foster 2134 Ex. No. 1:

 

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Foster 2134 Ex. No. 1, continued:

Foster 2134 Ex. No. 2:

 

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Foster 2134 Ex. No. 2, continued: