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Boots / shoes to wear with your flight jacket s...

mulceber

Moderator
Been wearing these for about a month, and can recommend them. Thursday Boots’ Low-top sneaker in Horween’s Cacao waxed flesh.
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CBI

Well-Known Member
Thursday Boots make some excellent footwear, very happy with my boots. A little more ergonomic than the heritage brands but still a great vibe. And excellent prices.
 

mulceber

Moderator
I don’t have a ton of other brands making all-leather sneakers to compare them to. They’re solidly constructed, the sole is actually stitched to the upper, unlike most mall sneakers, and I’ve seen a bunch of reviews by people who’ve had them a couple years who say they last. At $129, that’s pretty hard to beat. I did find they’re pretty narrow, and the first couple times I wore them, I had to wrap a bandaid around my little toe to prevent blisters. But on the whole, they’re quite comfortable.
 

Thomas Koehle

Well-Known Member
Since Burt started his thread about how to put a "wallet friendly" image of Virgil Hilts off the movie "The Great Escape" together i was keen on getting a pair of the RALPH LAUREN combat boots he recommended.

I "found" a pair of them here on the forum and got them in my hands 2 days ago.

Those boots look very similar to USMC boondockers - like those MARSHALL PRESIDENTS @FlakMagnet just posted is just to remove some lables ...

Check those photos out with a "Before" and "After" removing the branding

lNqrQKP.jpg

ZBl4ri0.jpg
 

Jennison

Well-Known Member
I did the same thing after I read Burt’s challenge. Flakmagnet’s boots are really nice and they indeed have the look of boondockers. There are others out there that can play the part pretty well. But, what sets “Burt’s” boots apart is that the RLs have genuine corded-soles, a feature exclusive to Marine Corps boots during WWII. I snagged mine on eBay, NIB, for the same price Burt paid, $125. If you’re familiar with corded soles, you’ll realize what an absolute, hands down, STEAL the RLs are. In fact, it baffles me as to why RL went through the expense and effort to use those soles, as I bet most consumers wouldn’t know or care. I have a pair of “WWII Impressions” corded-sole boondockers which are spot-on repros (they emptied my wallet in 1999). The RLs are a bit lighter in weight but are otherwise damn close.

I was remiss in not thanking Burt for posting that challenge, because these boots are the absolute BOMB. Get them while they’re out there!
 

CBI

Well-Known Member
............... in re Thursday Boots, Jan, nice sneakers. However, the Horween Cacao is odd to me. I had the same sneaker. They looked great at first but then as I wore them, they developed a rough out texture, they were no creases, it just got kind of rough. Hard to describe. Its like the smooth leather suddenly broke down/apart. I have noticed this on all of the photos I have seen of the Cacao of shoes with some wear. I am sure its just my perception. I am not being critical, its just they arrive looking so nice and then the leather gets weird IMO. If one looks at online photos, the leather doesn't develop the character one might expect hope for. Jan, keep us posted on these. I am sure my comments will ultimately be wrong!!!!
 

Thomas Koehle

Well-Known Member
I did the same thing after I read Burt’s challenge. Flakmagnet’s boots are really nice and they indeed have the look of boondockers. There are others out there that can play the part pretty well. But, what sets “Burt’s” boots apart is that the RLs have genuine corded-soles, a feature exclusive to Marine Corps boots during WWII. I snagged mine on eBay, NIB, for the same price Burt paid, $125. If you’re familiar with corded soles, you’ll realize what an absolute, hands down, STEAL the RLs are. In fact, it baffles me as to why RL went through the expense and effort to use those soles, as I bet most consumers wouldn’t know or care. I have a pair of “WWII Impressions” corded-sole boondockers which are spot-on repros (they emptied my wallet in 1999). The RLs are a bit lighter in weight but are otherwise damn close.

I was remiss in not thanking Burt for posting that challenge, because these boots are the absolute BOMB. Get them while they’re out there!

I own a pair of USMC Boonies made by ATF - i got them almost 20 yrs ago as far as i remember and i was highly disappointed with the quality of them - the "RALPHs" are much better - and pricewise remarkably below the ATF version. Well ATF is out of BOONDOCKERS anyway so there is source there anymore.

The RLs even have the same number of eyelettes like originals ...

Just checked the same boots made by "SM WHOLESALE" - twice the price of RL but not as accurate IMHO

USMC Boondocker SM Wholesale.jpg
 

Jennison

Well-Known Member
Thomas, are your ATFs corded? If I recall, their out-sourced boots just had plan rubber soles, but then they had a short run made in the US with corded soles and the price nearly doubled. I don't know about SM Wholesale's boondockers, but they do make a fairly accurate Type II Army service shoe. I say "fairly" because the construction is excellent, but the color is off. They too, are not at all cheap.
 

Thomas Koehle

Well-Known Member
Thomas, are your ATFs corded? If I recall, their out-sourced boots just had plan rubber soles, but then they had a short run made in the US with corded soles and the price nearly doubled. I don't know about SM Wholesale's boondockers, but they do make a fairly accurate Type II Army service shoe. I say "fairly" because the construction is excellent, but the color is off. They too, are not at all cheap.

Nope - the soles on the ones i have are plain rubber ...

I don't even remember when i got them - still they where kinda pricey back then even with those standard rubber soles
 

mulceber

Moderator
............... in re Thursday Boots, Jan, nice sneakers. However, the Horween Cacao is odd to me. I had the same sneaker. They looked great at first but then as I wore them, they developed a rough out texture, they were no creases, it just got kind of rough. Hard to describe. Its like the smooth leather suddenly broke down/apart. I have noticed this on all of the photos I have seen of the Cacao of shoes with some wear. I am sure its just my perception. I am not being critical, its just they arrive looking so nice and then the leather gets weird IMO. If one looks at online photos, the leather doesn't develop the character one might expect hope for. Jan, keep us posted on these. I am sure my comments will ultimately be wrong!!!!
Oh I’ve no doubt your right, since the Cacao is a Roughout that has been waxed up so that the surface starts to resemble the outer surface of the leather. Of course, after a while, the wax starts to wear away. I’ve found you can mostly maintain it, if you want, by working just a little bit of pecard’s into the leather when it starts scuffing (my Whites are a waxed roughout).
 
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FlakMagnet

Well-Known Member
Since Burt started his thread about how to put a "wallet friendly" image of Virgil Hilts off the movie "The Great Escape" together i was keen on getting a pair of the RALPH LAUREN combat boots he recommended.

I "found" a pair of them here on the forum and got them in my hands 2 days ago.

Those boots look very similar to USMC boondockers - like those MARSHALL PRESIDENTS @FlakMagnet just posted is just to remove some lables ...

Check those photos out with a "Before" and "After" removing the branding

lNqrQKP.jpg

ZBl4ri0.jpg
I’ve got both RL boondockers and roughout Presidents. Love them both. The RL boondockers are easy to break in and feel wear like sneakers; hella comfy too. I wear them nearly every day. Mine have “raw cord” soles, but I dont think they have real goodyear welts as I found that water gets in pretty easily. (Yuck) On the other hand, Presidents took a couple of wears to break in, but they are comfy yet sturdy as a boot should. Goodyear welted too of course which means it can be resoled. Speaking of soles, it’s got the standard Danite-like soles Thursday boots have.
 

Jennison

Well-Known Member
From what I was told and also what AI says, RLs boots are 270 degree Goodyear-welted. While I’m certainly no expert, they look it. Doesn’t mean I’m not wrong (although my WWII Impressions boondockers get wet easily too). In any event the RLs are robust and could probably withstand the rigors of the Pacific Islands. In terms of your feet getting wet, roughouts required dubbin on the uppers and the welts. In fact, that was a frustrating issue for the Marines. They fought in hot, tropical climes where dubbin made for sweaty discomfort. In forgoing dubbin, feet got wet pretty easily and were also susceptible to jungle rot, but they could also breathe. This wasn’t the issue in the European winter of 1944/45. Dubbin was crucial (and roughouts were originally designed to be so treated). Wet feet were both uncomfortable and dangerous in the ETO; frostbite and trench foot took many GIs off the line.
 
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FlakMagnet

Well-Known Member
From what I was told and also what AI says, RLs boots are 270 degree Goodyear-welted. While I’m certainly no expert, they look it. Doesn’t mean I’m not wrong (although my WWII Impressions boondockers get wet easily too). In any event the RLs are robust and could probably withstand the rigors of the Pacific Islands. In terms of your feet getting wet, roughouts required dubbin on the uppers and the welts. In fact, that was a frustrating issue for the Marines. They fought in hot, tropical climes where dubbin made for sweaty discomfort. In forgoing dubbin, feet got wet pretty easily and were also susceptible to jungle rot, but they could also breathe. This wasn’t the issue in the European winter of 1944/45. Dubbin was crucial (and roughouts were originally designed to be so treated). Wet feet were both uncomfortable and dangerous in the ETO; frostbite and trench foot took many GIs off the line.
If you’re talking about the US$490 premium suede RRL boondocker boots (made in USA), then yes. Defo a pair of 270 Degree goodyear welted boots. A good looking one at that too.

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On the other hand, The US$130~ green “Country Label” Polo Ralph Lauren Army Boots, (like the ones features in this thread) are made in China, and I doubt are true goodyear welted boots. In fact, for a pair of boots, they’re incredibly light to be goodyear welted. (My ATF N-1s are considerably weightier in comparison) The lining, while VERY comfy, is made of cheap materials. I’m not knocking on them at all because I love my pair and have had it for 5 years. It’s just a shame I won’t be able to resole them once the soles finally wear out.

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My pair:

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It’s been Sno-Sealed every year for five years, and had the laces replaced after the originals were frayed. Kept the labels because what’s the point of removing them if nobody else is going to notice them, right? Besides, I won’t be storming the beaches any time soon. (Haha)
 
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Thomas Koehle

Well-Known Member
I’ve got both RL boondockers and roughout Presidents. Love them both. The RL boondockers are easy to break in and feel wear like sneakers; hella comfy too. I wear them nearly every day. Mine have “raw cord” soles, but I dont think they have real goodyear welts as I found that water gets in pretty easily. (Yuck) On the other hand, Presidents took a couple of wears to break in, but they are comfy yet sturdy as a boot should. Goodyear welted too of course which means it can be resoled. Speaking of soles, it’s got the standard Danite-like soles Thursday boots have.

Same here: i was just wearing 'em the whole day yesterday and they felt absolutely comfy ...
 

Jennison

Well-Known Member
If you’re talking about the US$490 premium suede RRL boondocker boots (made in USA), then yes. Defo a pair of 270 Degree goodyear welted boots. A good looking one at that too.

View attachment 159803
View attachment 159801

On the other hand, The US$130~ green “Country Label” Polo Ralph Lauren Army Boots, (like the ones features in this thread) are made in China, and I doubt are true goodyear welted boots. In fact, for a pair of boots, they’re incredibly light to be goodyear welted. (My ATF N-1s are considerably weightier in comparison) The lining, while VERY comfy, is made of cheap materials. I’m not knocking on them at all because I love my pair and have had it for 5 years. It’s just a shame I won’t be able to resole them once the soles finally wear out.

View attachment 159805

View attachment 159817

My pair:

View attachment 159819
It’s been Sno-Sealed every year for five years, and had the laces replaced after the originals were frayed. Kept the labels because what’s the point of removing them if nobody else is going to notice them, right? Besides, I won’t be storming the beaches any time soon. (Haha)
Well, there you have it. Clearly explained with exhibits and delivered in a kind, deferential way. I have nothing but gratefulness and admiration for your response. That’s the way we should all be (admittedly however, I do enjoy Zuzu’s “reviews”).

However and wherever the latter boots were made, I’m sure you’ll agree it is impressive that they’ve got corded soles and are quite close in appearance (anyway) to correct WWII boondockers (in fact, once the Chinese start bothering to make correct A-2s, count me in). I honestly wonder why a fashion co would have corded soles, but it’s awesome. They can’t be beat for the price. Those $500 boondockers have rivets and soles in line with the early (the rivet) US Army rough out service shoes, but they miss the most important aspect of those, the shape & fit of the tell-tale Munson Last (bulbous toe). I’ll bet it’s not a cool enough shape for RL. I’m not averse to spending $ but I would never buy those for that reason. If I were a WWII Marine Corps reenactor, I would do exactly what Thomas did and save a bundle in the process!
 
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