Which GW makers/contracts fit which body types better?

[unclegrumpy]

I for one would like to see some type of summary as to how certain contracts are supposed to fit, or which makers/contracts fit which body types better......

I have been in pursuit of the "perfect" A-2 for decades. Starting with the dreaded Avirex pretenders in the 80's, through Gibson and Barnes, Flight Suits, Aero, Lost Worlds, RMNZ, and several ELC's. I currently have an ELC RW 1401-P and Luftwaffe jacket and three Good Wear A-2's from different contracts. I'm still not there yet in acchieving perfection, and probably never will be!....

Anyway, my thought is that it would be nice to compile a sticky with a data base for fit, design characteristics, etc. based on the tremendous experience and knowlege base of the forum members. This would be a tremendous resource for newbies and for anyone trying to decide which contract or maker to go for. (Post shortened)

The above is an excellent post from another thread that I think deserves a discussion of it's own. It clearly hits on something that I have wondered about for a long time. That is, which Goodwear makers/contracts fit which body types better.

I realize GWs can be tailored, but I would like to leave that out of the discussion. My thought is to discuss these jackets as though they were issued, and the only factor in getting a better fit is choosing a different maker.

Thanks!

 

[Anonymous]

One question that I have is which contract is JC's favorite to wear.

 

[Jaguar46]

Complicated answer, since peoples preferences also play in. I have a GW Acme that is loose, but I love it, and other times my very fit GW Star contract is my preference. Depend on mood.

 

[unclegrumpy]

Complicated answer, since peoples preferences also play in. I have a GW Acme that is loose, but I love it, and other times my very fit GW Star contract is my preference. Depend on mood.

I guess the question is what body type do you consider yourself to be?

 

[watchmanjimg]

Just a quick comment based on my experience. Individuals having broad, square shoulders will probably do well with the Dubow 27798, Star, and Bronco patterns. The 16160 in particular has sloping shoulders, a narrow back panel, and relatively small upper armholes. I can see this pattern working well on slim individuals but not as well on those with broad, flat upper backs. It's just too restrictive up top. I suspect that some GW Roughwears exhibit a similar shoulder profile, but I haven't tried one in person. JC once sent me a goat jacket to try on that I believe was a Poughkeepsie, and I found the pattern too restrictive for my build.

 

[Roughwear]

There is plenty of helpful advice about the fit of most of John's A2s on his website. I'm sure if you were to contact him he would supply even more.

As a collector of original A2s from most contracts it is evident to me that some contracts are better suited to particular body types than others. For me it has a lot to do with personal preferences and the mood one is in. I have quite a long upper body and find Aeros sized 42 or less always too short in the body, whilst other designs, such as Perry and Star have a proportionally longer body. John gets these features correct on his repros.

 

[Jaguar46]

I guess the question is what body type do you consider yourself to be?

A shorter than average mesomorph. (Average caucasian US male height = 5' 10 1/2")

My BMI (Body mass index is 24.5 = normal)

http://www.mens-total-fitness.com/ectom ... morph.html

http://stanfordhospital.org/clinicsmedS ... lator.html

Which contract was best suited to fit me? I don't know. All of my jackets I consider to fit. And they all fit differently, I have ELC Roughwear, Star, Monarch, and Werber. I have 4 Good Wears, Werber, Dubow, Acme and Star. No original jackets.

Even looking at all of the different contracts JC puts up, I have some trouble trying to tell which fit differently, and how and where they are different on him.

 

[unclegrumpy]

Even looking at all of the different contracts JC puts up, I have some trouble trying to tell which fit differently, and how and where they are different on him.

I agree! You know, JC is just about exactly your size, so his excellent photos should be especially helpful in selecting your next acquisition.

 

[smoos]

Just a quick comment based on my experience. Individuals having broad, square shoulders will probably do well with the Dubow 27798, Star, and Bronco patterns. The 16160 in particular has sloping shoulders, a narrow back panel, and relatively small upper armholes. I can see this pattern working well on slim individuals but not as well on those with broad, flat upper backs. It's just too restrictive up top. I suspect that some GW Roughwears exhibit a similar shoulder profile, but I haven't tried one in person. JC once sent me a goat jacket to try on that I believe was a Poughkeepsie, and I found the pattern too restrictive for my build.

Seems like the comfort factor with respect to square vs. sloping shoulders is hardly ever addressed on this forum. My shoulders are quite sloping and I find that square-shoulderd patterns tend to feel tight and uncomfortable because the armholes end up being too high relative to my armpits.

I'm curious about the shoulder cut and fit of Rough Wear's 27752 and 1401 and Aero's 21996 and 1877, as these are my favorite looking patterns. I've never had the opportunity to try on any of the them, but all appear to have shoulders that are quite sloping. That said, I suspect they all fit differently in this area regardless.

Anyone with personal experience care to comment on the shoulder cut of these patterns? (My shoulders are also pretty thick front-to-back.)

 

[Jaguar46]

I agree! You know, JC is just about exactly your size, so his excellent photos should be especially helpful in selecting your next acquisition.

I am 5'8", with a 32" sleeve. I am pretty sure JC is taller, and with longer arms.

 

[unclegrumpy]

I am 5'8", with a 32" sleeve. I am pretty sure JC is taller, and with longer arms.

I am sorry! I misread your post and thought you were....the "average caucasian US male height of 5' 10 1/2". Should have figured that a XKE type could not be "average"!

 

[Jaguar46]

I am 5'8", with a 32" sleeve. I am pretty sure JC is taller, and with longer arms.

I am sorry! I misread your post and thought you were....the "average caucasian US male height of 5' 10 1/2". Should have figured that a XKE type could not be "average"!

You asked me what body type do I consider myself to be, and I answered

"A shorter than average mesomorph. (Average caucasian US male height = 5' 10 1/2")

Meaning I am shorter than average, then posting what the average height is.

BTW, a Jaguar E-Type can comfortably seat a pretty tall guy, I would guess a 6 footer could comfortably fit in the cockpit. A Bugeye Sprite might be a different story.

 

[deeb7]

I am 5'8", with a 32" sleeve. I am pretty sure JC is taller, and with longer arms.

• Height: six foot one inches (73 inches, or 185cm)
  Weight: 190 pounds (86 kilograms)

 

[Pope]

No commits on jacket but have to tell you that pic of Amelia is outstanding ! One of the sexist women who has ever lived. For those of us who have gone thru the big bazooms and blond hair, she is desirability personified. Would like to wake up in the morning with a woman like her.

Ok.... the fantasy of an older man what can I say.

Mike

 

[CBI]

no matter Chapman's build, the pics on his site give an excellent reference as to how each contract fits a little differently since he is in all of the photos.