Ken at Aero Leather
Well-Known Member
This should go a long way toward explaining the differences in the same size of the sampe contract, no matter which contract
How an A-2 production line would/could/should have been set up. Variation would occur from one factory to another and I’ve only given this half an hours thought
Team would work on one size & style for a whole day or week to avoid mixing of panel pieces/sizes
STAGE 1 Lining material is laid up and cut in bulk, about 10-12 inches in height is usual, slippery cloth less, stable cloth more, at least 100 linings in one go
STAGE 2 Full set of leather jacket panels are cut, no matching required, tightest leather saving panel positions chosen
STAGE 3 Pieces are sorted into lots per job. Collar pieces, pocket pieces and epaulettes separated for studding folding hammering (Best done during cutting) Bottom tabs and zipper facing go with lining pieces
STAGE 4 Lining sewn together and label fitted by single operative Zipper would be best fitted at this point or by separate operator as a separate job dependand on skill of lining machinist
STAGE 5 Fronts reunited with studded pocket backs, prepared pockets and epaulettes These are fitted to fronts
STAGE 6 Finished Fronts reunited with back and sleeve pieces all seven pieces Joined together to create shell
STAGE 7 Top Collar and studded back collar pieces reunited, sewn together top stitched and fitted to shell, lining joined at the neck and Hanger Tab fitted
STAGE 8 Pre-made ready to use Knitted waistband & cuffs fitted and front edges closed Jacket passed on inside out
STAGE 9 Body is pulled through the open sleeve lining seam and prepared for top stitch
STAGE 10 Final sewing stage Top Stitch hem to hem. Zip top stitch and closing seam on sleeve completed
STAGE 11 Bottom Studs fitted to collar, throat hooks fitted
STAGE 12 QC
ADVANTAGES
Repetition leads to speed. Each of these jobs would be done by a particular person, each should take on average 5 minutes, some more, cutting for instance, some less, turning through, studding but One hour per jacket !or 12 jackets an hour from the team sounds about right, also works out re 1942 average wages and contract numbers in time filled all discussed on a previous thread. A few days run would be needed to see where the best balance of time could be fine tuned (One operative on quick unskilled jobs doing double jackets, stage 9 ?) Fastest worker on longest job etc. (Stage 8? I’ve seen more variation on this than most stages, some folk are very quick at this job) Total time saved would be between 30 mins to an hour on a single operative working flat out on a whole jacket
DRAWBACKS
Repetition leads to sloppiness. The final jacket is unlikely to comprise of the set of panel pieces that were cut together at the start, hence mismatching commonly found
One operative having a day off or an off day can really screw things up
How an A-2 production line would/could/should have been set up. Variation would occur from one factory to another and I’ve only given this half an hours thought
Team would work on one size & style for a whole day or week to avoid mixing of panel pieces/sizes
STAGE 1 Lining material is laid up and cut in bulk, about 10-12 inches in height is usual, slippery cloth less, stable cloth more, at least 100 linings in one go
STAGE 2 Full set of leather jacket panels are cut, no matching required, tightest leather saving panel positions chosen
STAGE 3 Pieces are sorted into lots per job. Collar pieces, pocket pieces and epaulettes separated for studding folding hammering (Best done during cutting) Bottom tabs and zipper facing go with lining pieces
STAGE 4 Lining sewn together and label fitted by single operative Zipper would be best fitted at this point or by separate operator as a separate job dependand on skill of lining machinist
STAGE 5 Fronts reunited with studded pocket backs, prepared pockets and epaulettes These are fitted to fronts
STAGE 6 Finished Fronts reunited with back and sleeve pieces all seven pieces Joined together to create shell
STAGE 7 Top Collar and studded back collar pieces reunited, sewn together top stitched and fitted to shell, lining joined at the neck and Hanger Tab fitted
STAGE 8 Pre-made ready to use Knitted waistband & cuffs fitted and front edges closed Jacket passed on inside out
STAGE 9 Body is pulled through the open sleeve lining seam and prepared for top stitch
STAGE 10 Final sewing stage Top Stitch hem to hem. Zip top stitch and closing seam on sleeve completed
STAGE 11 Bottom Studs fitted to collar, throat hooks fitted
STAGE 12 QC
ADVANTAGES
Repetition leads to speed. Each of these jobs would be done by a particular person, each should take on average 5 minutes, some more, cutting for instance, some less, turning through, studding but One hour per jacket !or 12 jackets an hour from the team sounds about right, also works out re 1942 average wages and contract numbers in time filled all discussed on a previous thread. A few days run would be needed to see where the best balance of time could be fine tuned (One operative on quick unskilled jobs doing double jackets, stage 9 ?) Fastest worker on longest job etc. (Stage 8? I’ve seen more variation on this than most stages, some folk are very quick at this job) Total time saved would be between 30 mins to an hour on a single operative working flat out on a whole jacket
DRAWBACKS
Repetition leads to sloppiness. The final jacket is unlikely to comprise of the set of panel pieces that were cut together at the start, hence mismatching commonly found
One operative having a day off or an off day can really screw things up